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Chassis dyno or engine dyno??

NOSTRT980

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Engine dyno over sixty miles away. Chassis dyno about 5 miles down the road. Which would you choice and why?
 
Engine dyno over sixty miles away. Chassis dyno about 5 miles down the road. Which would you choice and why?

Chassis, cause the engine is already in the car and its only going too move 5mi too the operator and once you there you don't have too pull the engine too find out what its going too make or guess what its going too make at the tire.
 
Chassis, cause the engine is already in the car and its only going too move 5mi too the operator and once you there you don't have too pull the engine too find out what its going too make or guess what its going too make at the tire.

Agree - chassis dyno. I did the engine dyno. Nice but I don't know what hp or torque is at the wheels. That's the real test.
 
Neither.

In my area dyno runs can be $300+ to $700+. I'm too cheap to pay hundreds of $$$ for someone to tell me how much 'less' horsepower my car is putting out than what my '***' tells me it's putting out.
:3gears:
 
depends on what your going for. if your really looking to dial in the engine then use an engine dyno. any good shop will have dyno headers with pyrometers (egt's) for each cylinder along with a lambda A/F meter in one of the collectors. you can really get your tune up dialed in. you will not be able to get as good of info from a chassis dyno. i've ran both when i use to do this kind of work. if your talking about the car in your avatar, then obviously the chassis dyno would be the choice with a late model factory type package.
 
Chassis Dyno is the best way to tune for performance after the engine is in the car.If your just looking to see what your car puts to the ground for HP and torque. Wait until the
shop that has the chassis dyno has does a Dyno day challenge.They will usually strap it down for about 80 dollars on dyno day.
 
Engine dyno. You'll find any issues BEFORE installing in the car, put a basic tune, as well as finding any possible leaks. Better to know the **** might be no good, before all the install. You can also order you convertors and do other calculations for the car setup. You'll know what you have for power and torque, and see where the car is lacking.
 
68 hemi, it is not the one in my avatar. I have two projects going at once. my scamp, back halved and chromoloy roll cage.
 
Neither.

In my area dyno runs can be $300+ to $700+. I'm too cheap to pay hundreds of $$$ for someone to tell me how much 'less' horsepower my car is putting out than what my '***' tells me it's putting out.
:3gears:


A person can make a lot of passes down the 1/4 for that amount of $$$
just saying...
 
Chassis dyno is a safe and easy way to tune. Make sure it is a loaded dyno like a mustang dyno. That is as real world as it gets. Most folks dont have the equipment to get the same data at the strip. If you have an EFI car, you can literally set the load at every rpm range and make the changes necessary to properly tune the base fuel tables. if you are working with a learning efi like holley you can literally get months worth of driving learning done on the dyno in a couple hours.
 
thanks 68 hemi, engine dyno it is. $85.00 an hour with the help of one mechanic. the engine is a 512/440 big easy heads, 13:7 to 1 and .725 lift cam and aluminum rods, we will see what we see when I dyno it. thanks again.
 
Chassis dyno. Things aren't exactly the same on a engine dyno compared to chassis dyno where the car actually is real world and things are different where the engine is under load, converter and carbs act differently under these circumstances.
engine dyno didn't find my carb bog where chassis dyno would find it right away since the engine is under load.
 
Just to add Chassis dyno will also likely serve as a better baseline if done now should you make further changes/improvements while the engine is in the car.

For example my crate engine came dyno'd and broken in but I went to a dyno day 2 weeks ago to get numbers since there are substantial changes and power adder being made to the car over this winter.... Now when I roll back over to the chassis dyno I'll have an idea if my money was well spent and maybe what more I can get out of this combo
 
"Chassis dyno. Things aren't exactly the same on a engine dyno compared to chassis dyno where the car actually is real world and things are different where the engine is under load, converter and carbs act differently under these circumstances.
engine dyno didn't find my carb bog where chassis dyno would find it right away since the engine is under load."

So you're saying a chassis dyno simulates launches and such...so you can figure your convertor, gearing, and other racing scenario's? I've always used engine dyno figures, car weight, trans, tires and other variables to set the car up...then start tuning the engine to try to bring the car to engine potential. I don't think a chassis dyno is real-world, either. Most people are just unable to afford[or too cheap] to have engine dyno work done. I understand that some can't do either type of dyno.

- - - Updated - - -

"For example my crate engine came dyno'd and broken in but I went to a dyno day 2 weeks ago to get numbers since there are substantial changes and power adder being made to the car over this winter.... Now when I roll back over to the chassis dyno I'll have an idea if my money was well spent and maybe what more I can get out of this combo"

Started with an engine dyno for baseline, though.
 
Most dyno places won't let you make a pass on the dyno. I wouldn't on mine. You can simulate load, you can load it to the flash rpm on the converter etc. If you haven't figured out your gearing and stall prior to building your combo the dyno won't be much help.
 
anybody ever notice how folks get their big cute engine dyno numbers and then go to the track and have disappointing times. where the rubber meets the road is the real power. transmissions, converters, driveshafts, rear axles, etc. soak up power.
 
Do you know how many big block guys bring in their cars and tell me "it makes 600 horsepower"? My usual answer is "or maybe 300" . The average 440 with aluminum heads and a decent cam makes 270 at the wheels through a 727. That's where the butt hurt begins. Now they do make 400 to 450 torque usually.
 
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