Besides the above, I went with standard rubber bushings. I like the soft ride. A Firm Feel stage 2 box and Bilstein shocks can make a dramatic improvement.
350? pretty preciousIf you go with the Bilstein shocks, use PST a vendor here and ask for the discount. Get all four.
Yep, I paid near $400 for 4 when I got them from Hotchkiss. Mopar "tuned. Still one of the best upgrades ever beside the FF steering box.350? pretty precious
Okay, now we are getting somewhere. If the guy priced each part individually instead of buying a kit AND grossly overestimated the labor time/cost, maybe he is still an idiot...Not to mention he was probably marking up the parts by double.....
Front radials and rear are bias ply? That will not help!thanks again, appears as if someone has rebuilt the front end to original specs, we did install powersteering, and a set of 10.5 inch slicks. took it for an alignment, and it wandered so bad it was almost impossible to drive at highway speed . radial tires on front
If You had bias ply on back w/ radial on front, thats why it wandered so bad. Bias on front w/ radials on back works, but not the reverse.thanks again, appears as if someone has rebuilt the front end to original specs, we did install powersteering, and a set of 10.5 inch slicks. took it for an alignment, and it wandered so bad it was almost impossible to drive at highway speed . radial tires on front
Yes, or Very stiff sidewall/low profile radials......go with drag radial slicks to circumvent the problem altogether......radials kick butt on bias plies. Check out the drag radials hemirunner has for His Superbird, er scratch that, restoration. Nice & tucked in tightSo. when we have race slicks on we are supposed to run biased plies on the front?
Might look into fully adjustable KONI shocks.....prob'ly a bit pricier than Bilstiens, but IMO the Only shock...conventional valved,,non gas.350? pretty precious
We just spent 600 on slicksYes, or Very stiff sidewall/low profile radials......go with drag radial slicks to circumvent the problem altogether......radials kick butt on bias plies. Check out the drag radials hemirunner has for His Superbird, er scratch that, restoration. Nice & tucked in tight
Probably what he charges to do "tuner" suspension rebuilds/upgrades. The import set have no problem dishing out big money for mods.Even at a $100 per hour labor rate, that is 30 hours plus the alignment. You can do this in ONE day if you have a press to R&R the bushings yourself. Add another day if you have to farm out the presswork to a shop.
Especially when they have their camber at -30 degreesProbably what he charges to do "tuner" suspension rebuilds/upgrades. The import set have no problem dishing out big money for mods.
Especially when they have their camber at -30 degrees
On my 69 post Coro…i ran L-50 bias on back(in stock wheel well!) & surprisingly i had 60 series HR Euro T/A's up front and it didn't wiggle & squirm, but the euros were real low profile, & the wheels were wider the bead of tires, so the sidewalls were very stiff. All other incidents though, the radial frnt/bias rear combo was near dangerous, the wander was so bad.3rdelke go with "bladecutter".Probably time for frt. tires!!!(non-radial)
if -1 degrees is good then -30 must be 30 times better! Those toe out cars are ridiculous.