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Cheetah Shifter

Gospel Runner

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I just hooked up my cheetah shifter to my 727 transmission. I put the tranny manually into park then adjusted the end of the cable to match up with the hole in the tranny lever. When I shifted into reverse from inside the car, the lever did not go into reverse. Then I tried to put the tranny lever manually into reverse with the shifter in reverse and I adjusted the end of the shifter cable to match. I shifted into park and the lever did not click into park. I need an additional 1/8 inch of adjustment or so. My question to those of you who are using this set up is, is there another adjustment that I can make to get this to work? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!
 
true, you have to use the turbo action lever that matches the shifter. which one do you have on the trans now?
I did not realize there was more than one. I bought hits shifter like 12 years ago and I am just now getting around to putting the car together. I hope I did not throw it away by accident or misplace it? Can I order the right lever from Cheetah shifter?
 
Turbo Action is the company that makes the shifter, they will have the correct lever or get the part no. from their web site and order it from Summit racing
 
Turbo Action is the company that makes the shifter, they will have the correct lever or get the part no. from their web site and order it from Summit racing
I called Turbo Action and they said I have the right lever and the right shifter. They could not tell me why it was not working. They gave me a couple of things to try. Non of which worked. I called Dynamic Transmission who built the tranny for me and they said I have to shift it in each gear and reset it each time. He said I may have to go through the gears twice.
 
The transmission detent and the shifter detent are fixed. The lever ratio is the determining factor.
Despite the confirmation by Turbo Action I still think you are dealing with a ratio difference. Remove the cable from the lever. It won't be easy but if you can, you might try measuring the distance of the lever position hole between each gear and then measure the cable travel for each gear change. The pivot adjustment is to align the pivot piece to fit directly into the lever. An 1/8th of an inch difference you have now is a lot. I'd say too much.
Here's a tip I learned the hard way. If you need to make minor adjustments, align the cable pivot piece perfectly in line with the lever hole in whatever gear the manufacturer recommends. Make your minor adjustments at the cable sheath, not the the pivot piece.
Cable.jpg
 
The transmission detent and the shifter detent are fixed. The lever ratio is the determining factor.
Despite the confirmation by Turbo Action I still think you are dealing with a ratio difference. Remove the cable from the lever. It won't be easy but if you can, you might try measuring the distance of the lever position hole between each gear and then measure the cable travel for each gear change. The pivot adjustment is to align the pivot piece to fit directly into the lever. An 1/8th of an inch difference you have now is a lot. I'd say too much.
Here's a tip I learned the hard way. If you need to make minor adjustments, align the cable pivot piece perfectly in line with the lever hole in whatever gear the manufacturer recommends. Make your minor adjustments at the cable sheath, not the the pivot piece.
View attachment 377961
Shorthouse you share some great information, that has given me a ray of hope. As I look at the picture of your cable, it is different then mine. Where my cable screws into the shifter there is a brass block, not the double nut and stud as shown. The brass block is threaded, so I may be able to get some adjustment there. Are you saying I should remove the entire cable to make these adjustments? I will have to wait until Monday to try this ide as my car is in my shop at my job. I am grateful for your input. God bless you!
 
Shorthouse you share some great information, that has given me a ray of hope. As I look at the picture of your cable, it is different then mine. Where my cable screws into the shifter there is a brass block, not the double nut and stud as shown. The brass block is threaded, so I may be able to get some adjustment there. Are you saying I should remove the entire cable to make these adjustments? I will have to wait until Monday to try this ide as my car is in my shop at my job. I am grateful for your input. God bless you!
I found this picture that looks more like my set up, but it confirms your idea.
 

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I found this picture that looks more like my set up, but it confirms your idea.
I screwed up. I see what you mean by where the adjustment is on the turbo action shifter. Duh, I made an assumption they were all near the same. My picture was of a different style cable end that goes into the transmission lever for several other brand shifters. That's what I'm used to.
Regardless, once the pivot piece is in the transmission shift lever as instructed, all adjustments are made up top at the shifter "terminal block". The difference I see is the shield is fixed at both ends so there is no adjustment there. The instruction talk about "total travel". They specify that the total travel should be between 3 and 3.25 inches. There is that 1/8 inch you are dealing with. You are on the right path. The threaded block (terminal block is their term) is where your're going to get your correct adjustment. I'm sure this will work but if for some reason you cannot get the right adjustment under any circumstances, we'll revisit the shift lever ratio issue.
Good luck to you.
 
The instruction talk about "total travel".
Regardless of the shifter used, the total travel is the key to making it work. The travel range needs to 'match'.
Forget about trying to adjust for each gear. Full range shift goes from Park to First. Put the trans in Park, adjust the shift linkage, or cable 'loose'. Just where it will fall into place.
Then to First, and move the shifter itself to First. If the linkage, or cable does NOT fall into place, either needs adjusting to match the swing (range), or parts.
 
Regardless of the shifter used, the total travel is the key to making it work. The travel range needs to 'match'.
Forget about trying to adjust for each gear. Full range shift goes from Park to First. Put the trans in Park, adjust the shift linkage, or cable 'loose'. Just where it will fall into place.
Then to First, and move the shifter itself to First. If the linkage, or cable does NOT fall into place, either needs adjusting to match the swing (range), or parts.
Thank you sir. I was trying to think of how to proceed with all of these directions. I like it simple and straight forward. If I could, I would go into work right now and try this new idea. I will let you know how things go tomorrow. Thank you!
 
I called Turbo Action and they said I have the right lever and the right shifter. They could not tell me why it was not working. They gave me a couple of things to try. Non of which worked. I called Dynamic Transmission who built the tranny for me and they said I have to shift it in each gear and reset it each time. He said I may have to go through the gears twice.

That's what I do' I focus more on accuracy on the forward gears and neutral. Don't worry about park as much.
 
That's what I do' I focus more on accuracy on the forward gears and neutral. Don't worry about park as much.
It does not matter what I try, it just does not go into reverse. So with the car on the lift, I disconnected the shift linkage and started the car in park. I then shifted the car manually from underneath into reverse and reverse did not work. My next move is to take this back to Dynamic and see what is going on with my transmission not going into reverse. I have to wait for warmer weather, like in the mid 50's to high 50's. I refuse to give up until this issue is resolved!
 
Do you have fluid? Check idling in neutral, not park. If the cable runs near the exhaust, it will melt the cable outer sleeve, and the cable will not work. Insulate with a heat sleeve. Better get the transmission checked out by Dynamic soon. Don't want it to go out of warranty.
 
Do you have fluid? Check idling in neutral, not park. If the cable runs near the exhaust, it will melt the cable outer sleeve, and the cable will not work. Insulate with a heat sleeve. Better get the transmission checked out by Dynamic soon. Don't want it to go out of warranty.
I called Dynamic today and they said it sounds like I have a reverse valve hanging up. I have to bring the transmission temperature up, then check the fluid level while in neutral. Then shift through the gears. He believes this will free up the valve and give me reverse. If this does not work I will take the tranny out and bring it to them. The warranty ran out years ago because the car sat for so many years. Between life and lack of funds, I did not get the car back together for about 12 years. Even though the tranny was rebuilt, it was not in use. I will give you an update tomorrow.
 
Send it to a&a or cope if dynamic isn't gonna warranty it. You'll be money ahead.

My dad is a really good trans builder, he got that way from a "Fairbanks" (lupo) trans he had built in the late 70's for the dart that was a pile of ****. After that he said never again and built his own. My buddy just had a dynamic convertor we had to send to coan because the pilot was off center.
 
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I just found out that I have a trans brake. That means I need to use a button to get the trans to go into reverse. Nothing wrong with the tranny, just I did not remember what I had built 14 years ago. Now I have to find out how this thing works. I have read 3 or 4 different versions of this thing. It is very confusing, from what I read so far. I need you to let me know two things; how to wire this thing and how to use it.
 
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