"Christmas" comes early for Biomedtechguy...

[themechanic]

Lots of guys install tubular control arms but don't realize they weigh more than stamped steel.

You should do a 60-0 test before and after on the brakes. That would make a cool YT video.

 

[biomedtechguy]

You should do a 60-0 test before and after on the brakes. That would make a cool YT video.

I may be able to make that happen.
Right now I have Right Stuff 11" front drilled slotted discs, and stock rear Track Pack Dana 60 drums, whatever that is.
Going to 12.88 fronts and 12.19 rears with the Wilwood master cylinder, AN fittings, all 4 corners stainless braided lines..and the proportioning valve to fine tune it?...
Oh YES!

 

[themechanic]

May as well replace all the hard steel lines with SS. And don't forget that rubber line that attaches to the tee/vent on the rear axle.

 

[Mike67]

I've owned my QA1 K-member and sway bar...
View attachment 862595 and complete front suspension system for a year now...
View attachment 862596
the only non QA1 part being the upper control arms which are these SPC UCAs
View attachment 862597
I already have 2 way adjustable Viking front shocks.
I've been waiting to get it installed until I could take advantage of an at cost deal on a killer Wilwood 4 wheel 6 piston disc brake system, and now I can!
12.88" 6 piston front brakes:
View attachment 862599
And 12.19" 6 piston rear brakes w/parking brake drum:
View attachment 862601
Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve:
View attachment 862603
And the 17" Year One aluminum Rallye wheels will allow those beautiful slotted drilled rotors to fit and be seen just fine!
View attachment 862604
So now little things, like STEERING and STOPPING are going to work WAY better!
I've had alignment problems since I got the car, but this is going to fix that, and I've had problems with the Right Stuff front drum to disc conversion system that I can NOT get resolved-the problem always comes back. NO MORE!
I'll get my line lock installed too!
Wraptor serpentine system is in,
View attachment 862605 View attachment 862606
The Wraptor is going to get me power steering for the first time, and man, that's going to make parallel parking at 1pm in July in south Louisiana a much nicer, less life threatening prospect, especially with the AC on full blast...
Speaking of AC, I've got a Cold Case 26" aluminum radiator and Vintage Air AC system to install!
Dakota Digital gauges that I've owned for 3+ years can be installed when the Vintage Air goes in so now I'll be able to actually know how fast my Passon Performance a855 5 speed and 4.10 ring and pinion gearset in the Dana 60 is moving me. The Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing and HitMaster launch control system will make my 1320 launches way better, and hopefully the hydraulic clutch will be easier on the old beat up knee. I am also going to see about getting a new driveshaft, probably chrome molybdenum, because the stock one isn't the best, and with the overdrive 5th gear and 4.10 R&P it's spinning pretty darn fast.

I've been working on getting my hydropower installed and happened to speak to a gentleman that makes kits, I know you have the Wraptor, I have the Revolver and both have the type 2 gm pumps, he said that it will flow too much and recommended changing to an AN restrictor. I also asked about using a reservoir with 3 inlets/outlets and said it is much better that tapping a T into the return line..the reservoirs are about $200
Just an fyi as I know you had a post about it a while back.

 

[biomedtechguy]

And don't forget that rubber line that attaches to the tee/vent on the rear axle.

I just replaced the T vent rubber hose "combo" because a local shop I brought my car to a couple of days before Cruisin the Coast to get the brakes "bled" and/or "checked", yet again, said that the T vent hose combo on my car was good up and internally collapsed.
So that part is only 2 months old. Pedal on my brakes was better than ever, but over the next 6 days steadily got softer.

May as well replace all the hard steel lines with SS.

Honestly I don't have money to throw away, but I would do that if anyone can justify the reason(s) and give me an idea of cost?

you have the Wraptor, I have the Revolver and both have the type 2 gm pumps, he said that it will flow too much and recommended changing to an AN restrictor. I also asked about using a reservoir with 3 inlets/outlets and said it is much better that tapping a T into the return line..the reservoirs are about $200

I saw the remote reservoir that came with the Wraptor for the GTO. I think the place we bought them from swapped my Wraptor remote reservoir request for the Pontiac setup, but if I can find the room, and if you can better explain the advantage, I can make an even swap of the power steering pump w/attached reservoir for the remote setup. I think it only has 2 inlets and outlets though? Maybe I can swap end caps and get a 3 port for the 2 port? I can also work with the vendor I bought everything from to get a 3 port in and out end caps? He likely has AN fittings too.
I just need a better idea of what to ask for.

 

[themechanic]

Replacing 50 year old hard lines should be a no brainer. Especially, if you already replaced a line because it was partially plugged up with contamination.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Replacing 50 year old hard lines should be a no brainer. Especially, if you already replaced a line because it was partially plugged up with contamination.

Honestly I don't know how old they are or if they've been replaced.
Recommended sources for stainless steel top quality properly bent lines??
Anyone ballpark the cost?
Thanks

 

[themechanic]

My front to rear line was the only original one left (don't ask me why). So, last week I bought a SS line from Inline Tube (from Jegs) for $69.

You can get a full set for $180.

Look at their eBay store. Motorcity Super Cars. Or their website.

https://www.ebay.com/str/motorcitysupercars/Mopar/_i.html?_storecat=394868012

https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/pr...552230|604149871208954240|768283627913207936|

 

[biomedtechguy]

My front to rear line was the only original one left (don't ask me why). So, last week I bought a SS line from Inline Tube (from Jegs) for $69.

You can get a full set for $180.

Look at their eBay store. Motorcity Super Cars. Or their website.

https://www.ebay.com/str/motorcitysupercars/Mopar/_i.html?_storecat=394868012

https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/pr...552230|604149871208954240|768283627913207936|

 

[biomedtechguy]

This and a few other threads are outstanding among thousands that I've been involved in.
Thank you for challenging me and advising me, I truly appreciate it!

 

[biomedtechguy]

@Mike67
I sent the company an email regarding this but if you can elaborate, I would like to know more about the power steering pump and compatibility with the Borgeson power steering box.

I saw the remote reservoir that came with the Wraptor for the GTO. I think the place we bought them from swapped my Wraptor remote reservoir request for the Pontiac setup, but if I can find the room, and if you can better explain the advantage, I can make an even swap of the power steering pump w/attached reservoir for the remote setup. I think it only has 2 inlets and outlets though? Maybe I can swap end caps and get a 3 port for the 2 port? I can also work with the vendor I bought everything from to get a 3 port in and out end caps? He likely has AN fittings too.
I just need a better idea of what to ask for.

 

[Mike67]

@Mike67
I sent the company an email regarding this but if you can elaborate, I would like to know more about the power steering pump and compatibility with the Borgeson power steering box.

I forget the guys name but he is with
http://www.custompowerbrake.com/.
He said that the GM Type II pumps deliver 3+gpm which is way to much. He told me that I needed to buy a flow restrictor and I believe he said it needs to be 2gpm. Something like this

http://www.jdaent.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=BSP-RP1300

....also if you are running a Mustang II rack the pressure will need to be reduced as well from what I've been reading. The pumps are putting out 1200psi and the rack is rated for 850...
Here is an interesting article regarding Type II Pumps.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/gm-type-ii-power-steering-pump/

 

[biomedtechguy]

also if you are running a Mustang II rack

No, I'm going to buy a Borgeson power steering box for the stock Mopar steering setup. My understanding is the Borgeson is the smallest, lightest power steering box available? I am using the QA1 front suspension, using the pitman arm and factory steering linkage.
A rack and pinion, as nice as they are, would have tripled my costs.
CVF has a pressure reduction valve available that goes in the output of the power steering pump, but you seem to be indicating it is a volume issue.
I'll post up what I find out.
Thanks Mike!

 

[Mike67]

No, I'm going to buy a Borgeson power steering box for the stock Mopar steering setup. My understanding is the Borgeson is the smallest, lightest power steering box available? I am using the QA1 front suspension, using the pitman arm and factory steering linkage.
A rack and pinion, as nice as they are, would have tripled my costs.
CVF has a pressure reduction valve available that goes in the output of the power steering pump, but you seem to be indicating it is a volume issue.
I'll post up what I find out.
Thanks Mike!

Your welcome! I have the very same set up, except it's all in boxes right now so I'm following this closely...

 

[biomedtechguy]

Your welcome! I have the very same set up, except it's all in boxes right now so I'm following this closely...

No flow restrictor needed for the Borgeson power steering box and the factory steering linkage.

 

[Mike67]

No flow restrictor needed for the Borgeson power steering box and the factory steering linkage.

Ok but aren't you running a hydroboost too? I might have gotten threads mixed up... I have all Qa1 front end, new Borgeson steering box w/ Wilwoods on all 4 plus a hydroboost...for some reason I thought you were going that route...
Sorry for the confusion!!!

 

[biomedtechguy]

aren't you running a hydroboost too?

Nope...
I prefer the manual brakes, and the diameter of the Wilwood master cylinder was selected to provide some pedal travel before full lock brakes, and reduce braking effort required to mash the pedal. That should allow me to better modulate the braking force to maximize rolling resistance before lockup.
Unless I panic...lol.

 

[themechanic]

@biomedtechguy I just received an email from Inline Tube for 10% off using code EBSAVE10 at checkout.

 

[CudaChick1968]

I saw that. Thanks for making sure I knew about it!
I haven't decided if RMS or Gerst is the route I'm going, but after talking to Carl Gerst, it's hard not to give him my business.

Carl and my customer Timmy Petty (The King's nephew, now operating the original Petty's Garage renamed The Moonshine Speed Shop) split a booth at Carlisle last year. I don't know him but all the feedback was TERRIFIC. They displayed a bunch of my work so I heard from quite a few people about how gracious and engaging Carl is. It's easy to support people like that!!

 

[biomedtechguy]

Carl and my customer Timmy Petty (The King's nephew, now operating the original Petty's Garage renamed The Moonshine Speed Shop) split a booth at Carlisle last year. I don't know him but all the feedback was TERRIFIC. They displayed a bunch of my work so I heard from quite a few people about how gracious and engaging Carl is. It's easy to support people like that!!

I absolutely agree, and you are great too, but you quoted me from waaayyy back on page 2, and between that quoted post and a few pages later, I changed my mind on a decision I thought I was settled on for over a year!
Yes, I succumbed to the
"Calvert Club"(bing-lol) took into consideration the reversibility of the best leaf spring technology available vs welding in the crossmember support for a 4 link, and how fast people are going using it, and how much relatively easier it is to adjust, and I have decided to go the updated split mono leaf springs and "traction bars" route...
BUT
That has brought me to another decision to make, and I am considering all Calvert products EXCEPT FOR the traction bars themselves. Depending on what information I may get on the forum, and if there is a big difference in ground clearance, I am liking the ASSASSIN traction bars vs the Caltracs:

I spoke with Ken at Smith Racecraft, and the Assassin bars have some potential advantages.
https://smithracecraft.com/product-categories/rear-suspension/assassin-traction-bars
Anyone here using them or have first hand experience with them?
Everything else would be Calvert, except the rear shocks, which I will get Viking double adjustable shocks, which I also have on the front suspension already.