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Clear coat questions.

all orange peel should be gone after the 2000 step...... I do the edges and points by hand
 
Thanks for all the info!
Hopefully i can get started on it this week. The wife decided were looking at concrete fountains today.
 
Good luck we need pics after your done!
 
What type of DA should i use?
A fine orbit, use 3/16 not 5/16" or above.
If you do go with the pads once you switch to wet use a spray bottle full of water to keep a nice wet surface.
 
If you use Trizact paper, you use a 3/16" throw D.A. as per instructions. They have a Grey colored paddle on them.
The D.A.'s are color coded. And use a foam backing pad as per instructions. As long as you hold the pad flat and use
a "Hashtag" pattern with water, you won't go through!
 
Really love the color on that car but I am biased....

I started cutting a 2' square area of mine with a DA and hated how it was going, instant pigtails, I'm 100% sure it was my fault as others can make it work. I probably didn't keep the paper clean enough or something like that/not enough experience.

Defaulted to hand block which I was alot more confident with, and continued on.
I did 1500/2000/2500, cutting compound on twisted wool, polishing compound on foam/da.

Good luck with the project, it really looks great so far. Would love to see more pics.

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I think you should hand sand it on the final 3000 grit starting from the bottom of the car so you're not putting dirt underneath your paper as you get higher and come down, or sand the whole car with 1000 grit and then respray it with clear again only one and a half to 2 med coats and you'll get more depth and have your protection of your clear coat.
 
I think you should hand sand it on the final 3000 grit starting from the bottom of the car so you're not putting dirt underneath your paper as you get higher and come down, or sand the whole car with 1000 grit and then respray it with clear again only one and a half to 2 med coats and you'll get more depth and have your protection of your clear coat.
The use of warm water with a little bit of dish soap in a 5 hal. bucket , then you dip your bottle and fill it up with the soap water have the bottle above your sanding block squeezing water out while sanding serves 2,, purposes, 1 with the soap in the water it helps with sanding by not sticking as your sanding and 2 it washes the dirt out from under your paper that you've just cut out of the paint which it left under your paper will put scratchs bigger than wat grit your sanding with , which won't be able to buff out , and 3 soapy water cleans as you sand and removes any contaminates if should scuff the dirt out and reshoot with clear again !
 
The use of warm water with a little bit of dish soap in a 5 hal. bucket , then you dip your bottle and fill it up with the soap water have the bottle above your sanding block squeezing water out while sanding serves 2,, purposes, 1 with the soap in the water it helps with sanding by not sticking as your sanding and 2 it washes the dirt out from under your paper that you've just cut out of the paint which it left under your paper will put scratchs bigger than wat grit your sanding with , which won't be able to buff out , and 3 soapy water cleans as you sand and removes any contaminates if should scuff the dirt out and reshoot with clear again !
And if not experienced I would just do it with a block by hand cuz if you go thru the clear that color looks like it's more than just a solid color , so you'd never match the color by just spotting some color and reclesring . You see it easily, so you have to basically shoot the whole car with base again if you go thru , so sand by hand drying it off with a squeegee as you go so you can see your wat you've done by squeegee ing it off often , you'll see wat I'm talking about when you do . Had a body shop for 28 years, bret
 
The use of warm water with a little bit of dish soap in a 5 hal. bucket , then you dip your bottle and fill it up with the soap water have the bottle above your sanding block squeezing water out while sanding serves 2,, purposes, 1 with the soap in the water it helps with sanding by not sticking as your sanding and 2 it washes the dirt out from under your paper that you've just cut out of the paint which it left under your paper will put scratchs bigger than wat grit your sanding with , which won't be able to buff out , and 3 soapy water cleans as you sand and removes any contaminates if should scuff the dirt out and reshoot with clear again !
Hey @bret schucker Shuck! How is it you've been a member here since 2020 and I've never ran into you? You know Lee and I and some other friends are rolling into Reno next month for Hot August Nights. We'll probably stop by your place on the way into town like last year. Maybe you can give me and brother-in-law John another joyride in your 70 GTX. He still talks about that. He says he was worried you'd be arrested but I'm pretty sure he thought you were going to put him in jail. I'm looking forward to talking with you about clear coating the Polara. Call me. Peace! Doug
 
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Thanks for the info Bret. I had been thinking about reshooting the clear. Im assuming i need to sand as much of the dust specks out before respraying the clear. I have a couple of pretty good runs on the passenger side i need to cut down. As far as the cut and buff, ive only done one other car. It was my black 2016 scat pack charger. It turned out really good. I did that one all by hand. So i will probably stick with that.
Heres a couple of pics.

20240714_113528.jpg


20240714_113450.jpg
 
Afte sanding with 800 and 1000 grit I realized it probably would have buffed out. But i added 3 more coats of clear. It laid down a lot better this time. Ill start buffing after the street rod nationals. Over I think it turned out ok for a first attempt at an overall paint job.

20240721_145118.jpg
 
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Yes, it did. Congratulations!
 
I started the cut and buff on the hood today. Its not perfect but presentable. I will be happy if the rest of the car turs out this good.

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