Clutch adjustment advice (for a hack)

[Daves69]

Is this right.....
You have a high disc release point, and the OC position still isn't made to pull the pedal up to the stop.
Basic stuff I look at.
Have you verified that you have the correct pieces from the release bearing and fork pivot all the way up to the clutch pedal?
Are these parts all in good or excellent condition?
Is the fork attached to the release bearing on both (top and bottom) pads? (double check this IMO)
Are your engine and trans mounts sound?
If so, are you seeing any loss motion or slop while working the pedal through its travel?
Is the firewall or frame rail mount flexing? (heavy PP spring loads may dictate extra reinforcement).

 

[moparedtn]

A subject near and dear to my heart....I have entire threads on this forum dedicated to my learning curve
on everything b-body clutches.
Current status on mine (after ALL the options were explored, expensively): I have an old stock B&B 11" setup
on Fred right now. 3 fingers. Good luck finding a B&B 11" 18 spline clutch these days (other than from that
awful RAM stuff everyone sells. I don't care for that one at all, either...)

Instead, I'll just leave the Factory Service Manual instructions on how to adjust the free play in the pedal.

Arrangement underdash:


(Yes, taking off that over-center spring is downright DANGEROUS - but can be done with proper leverage,
much like taking off brake shoe springs x100 ).

Arrangement Under Car:


Adjustment Procedure:

(Notice they want that 5/32" measurement at the end of fork - which means it'll be more than that between
the throwout bearing and fingers of the diaphragm.)

Hope this helps!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

First off, all of the pictures need more grease on the pivot points, that will reduce effort. Over the center spring helps you push pedal at higher rpm with original B&B which has rollers/weights to apply more pressure at higher rpm/power levels. It will hold pedal on the floor with a diaphragm clutch at higher rpm, except for maybe a center force clutch which has weights, but I doubt they even do anything other than a gimmick.
That hood spring on the linkage needs removed. If it is put on wrong to a anchor point and then to fork being pushed reward it is adding too much to the effort. The correct way to have that spring is to be a flexible way to keep adjuster, fork and Z bar arm all snug together having no effect on effort. Over center spring other action is to hold pedal tight up against the stop. If it is not present with diaphragm clutch you need to add a very light, long pull spring to pedal and dash/pedal box to keep pedal up tight to stop for consistency.
Lastly the adjustment in picture with the hood spring is almost run out, so something is worn, pivot points, ball stud bushings, pressure plate fingers , clutch plate, something needs replaced. Typically the adjustment is all the way towards the end of the threaded part when new, non worn parts.