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Clutch Adjustment??

Several pumps of the clutch should close up that flex area for a mechanical lock. No plastic (nylon) needed. You should feel the resistance when turning. If it's not doing that, something is not right, maybe worn out. You could try closing the lock end of the nut manually with channel locks. Just line up the flat squeeze it down enough to lock.
There is nothing wrong with using a "nylock" or "jam" nut.
The fork return spring keeps the assembly pulled forward so it don't rattle around and keeps the bearing off the cover fingers.

FWIW, the two flex type nuts in the left picture are locked on the round threads. They are designed to provide "X" torque for up to 15 install/remove cycles.
 
Several pumps of the clutch should close up that flex area for a mechanical lock. No plastic (nylon) needed. You should feel the resistance when turning. If it's not doing that, something is not right, maybe worn out. You could try closing the lock end of the nut manually with channel locks. Just line up the flat squeeze it down enough to lock.
There is nothing wrong with using a "nylock" or "jam" nut.
The fork return spring keeps the assembly pulled forward so it don't rattle around and keeps the bearing off the cover fingers.

FWIW, the two flex type nuts in the left picture are locked on the round threads. They are designed to provide "X" torque for up to 15 install/remove cycles.
Oh, ..... I get it. The 5/32" gap remains, but when the nut pushes on the fork washer, the flex part of the nut should collapse in & *lock the nut* on the threads (& then, foot off the pedal = rod with locked nut returns to a position with 5/32" gap between nut & washer). Ingenious!!! So, if I "gots ta kno" ...I need to scoot under the car & check the resistance of the nut now.

With the nut removed, I did pry the flex tabs on that nut inward ....that tightened the nut on the treads when reinstalling it ...until turning it to where it needed to be on the rod. Then it was all loose again. But, I see what you're saying RE clutch operation should tighten the nut on the rod.

Thanks so much for the explanation. I'm not trying to drive everyone crazy here, I just enjoy a thorough understanding of precisely how it all works. That, to me, is much of the fun of doing all this!
 
Turn the nut.. pull the fork back with your hand, get the FSM gap and call it a day...

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This thread actually answered all my question as how to adjust my clutch.
I can not "THANK EVERYONE" enough for all their help on this site when I too have questions that need a clear and definite answer.
 
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