Clutch Fork Pivot Installation...

[Lighthorseman]

So, I did a 4-speed conversion on my '70 Satellite / RR clone, but because I really don't know what I'm doing, when gathering all the bits and pieces, I neglected to note that there was no clutch fork pivot installed in the bellhousing.

I put everything together and installed the engine and transmission, only to realize once everything is in that the pivot is missing. I managed to get the clutch fork out and the pivot installed, but now cannot get the clutch fork back in. From what I can tell, I need to compress the diaphragm spring-thingy that the throwout bearing sits against by about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch to fit the clutch fork back onto the throwout bearing, but I'm loathe to try to ram a screwdriver in there and pry it. Here are my related questions:

- Is there some way to install the clutch fork without having to remove either the transmission, bellhousing, or both?

- Has anyone come up with some sort of brainwave system of compressing the diaphragm?

 

[gkent]

You do not have to depress the clutch to install the fork but it will be a challenge getting the fork prongs into the release bearing clips at the same time as the fork tab into the pivot. Perseverance will prevail. get all the other linkage and crap out of the way to minimize frustration. All that **** can be installed afterwards.

As an afterthought ... if you get the fork positioned and lined up with both the clips and the pivot, a good whack with a mallet should drive the fork into all at once.

 

[5.7 hemi]

It’s a bitch, but totally doable. I’ve had to do it, took me awhile, invented some new words, but I managed to get it done.

 

[Daves69]

Just a suggestion....Corner break the lead in edges on the pivot a sixteenth if there are sharp edges left from stamping. Grease the matting underside of the fork and the release bearing fork pads.
As said previously, keeping the release bearing from spinning and landing one spring clip side is the challenge. Then too, don't be overly aggressive with the fork and possibly crack the trans bearing retainer tube.

 

[Ernie ingling]

Replace top bolts tran to engine install threaded rod remove remaining bolts slid trans back and

 

[tonysrt]

I use B engine head bolts with the head cut off to insert in bell housing to move tranny back without losing alignment. And of course you have to use long head bolts.

 

[Lighthorseman]

So, revisiting this thread...

I tried Dave's suggestion of chamfering the edge of the pivot, but that still wasn't enough. Looks like I'm stuck trying to back off the bellhousing bolts, but I'm completely stymied by the top bolts. I simply cannot get anything in there to back them off. Is there some sort of trick or hack I'm not aware of?

Traditional wrenches slip and will eventually strip the bolt head, and there isn't enough room to get a ratchet-thingy in there, as the firewall is in the way.

I'm thinking I might have to drop the whole K-frame an inch or so to get a ratchet-thingy in there.

Sorry to keep harping on about what really should be dirt simple - but as I explained in the original post...

Thanks in advance for ideas or help!

 

[gkent]

A "ratchet thingy" has me thinking you're in WAY over your head !!!

 

[Lighthorseman]

A "ratchet thingy" has me thinking you're in WAY over your head !!!

I'm all about the correct lingo, my man!

 

[Daves69]

I've always been able to remove the top two bell bolts with a box end wrench from the top before lowering the trans cross member.

How about a long extension once you lower the trans crossmember?

 

[Lighthorseman]

I tried box-ended wrenches first. The ones I have just wont fit between the bolt head and the bolt cutout. Only a socket end seems to fit...but then there isn’t enough clearance for the ratchet part.

 

[gkent]

There's a "box" wrench and an "open end" wrench. A box wrench will have a head pretty damn close to a ratchet thingy socket.

 

[Lighthorseman]

Well, I managed to get the thing installed.

First off, since I couldn't get at the top bellhousing bolts, I backed off the K-frame bolts, effectively lowering the engine / trans assembly to the point where my ratchet-thingy would fit. (I assume I have crappy, cheap box wrenches that try to make up for substandard metal strength by making them much thicker, hence not clearing the bellhousing bolt cutout). I backed off all the bellhousing bolts, keeping them in place to ensure ongoing proper alignment. Next, I undid the transmission support, allowing the transmission and bellhousing to be moved back back, creating the additional 1/4 inch or so of space I needed. Naturally, everything was properly supported so I wouldn't wind up squished while fooling about under the car. After that, it was mostly a case of wiggling, cajoling, and teasing the clutch fork into place. This was followed up by reversing all the previous steps to bolt everything back up.

Thanks very much to everyone for their input.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If you were using racheting box wrenches they won't fit.

 

[gkent]

The proof of success will be if everything works.

 

[Lighthorseman]

Absolutely correct. I haven't hooked everything back up yet, but so far, things are lining up and going together well...

Fingers crossed!

 

[coloradodave]

For the next time...lol
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN57...LB&dchild=1&keywords=9/16+ratchet+wrench&qid=

 

[Lighthorseman]

Dave - I have a set of those. They are super awesome, but didn’t fit the bolt cutout in the bellhousing.