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Clutch options

747mopar

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I'm getting ready to purchase everything for the Viper tranny install and need some advice on which clutch to buy. I want something that won't be harsh or grabby but one that can be slipped and will hold up to 500 ft lbs. I say not grabby because the clutch that came with the TKO had virtually no slippage at all making takeoffs pretty harsh and every shift harsh and jerky. The clutch will be a 10.5", 1.125" X 26 spline.
 
mcleod are good, the one i am using at the moment is an american powertrain science friction kevlar clutch good for around 650 ft lbs, pedal effort is really good and not harsh on takeoffs.
 
The one that came with the tranny was a copper ceramic disc, I'll be sure to never get one of those haha. Been hearing allot of good things about the McLeod clutches and Summit has the kit for a pretty reasonable price too so I'm leaning towards that at the moment.
 
The one that came with the tranny was a copper ceramic disc, I'll be sure to never get one of those haha. Been hearing allot of good things about the McLeod clutches and Summit has the kit for a pretty reasonable price too so I'm leaning towards that at the moment.

I think those ceramic ones are rated for like 1000 ft lbs, no wonder it was so hard :)
 
I think those ceramic ones are rated for like 1000 ft lbs, no wonder it was so hard :)

It wasn't hard just had no slippage meaning there was no easing the clutch out for a nice smooth take off (all or nothing).

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I looked up the suggested clutch, don't know that I need the $600+ dual clutch setup for my motor? I was looking at the McLeod 75217 kit.
 
I just ordered mine and went with a Ram 98730HD. On their website it says they are good to 650HP but to expect some chatter on take off. I have heard lots of good things about the Science Friction clutches as well. If you are using a stock Viper TOB, you will likely need a spacer between the case and the TOB to avoid overextending.
 
Here is the one i got mate, if you wanted to read up on it, really good item.
http://www.proformancepowertrain.com/mopar/transmissions/clutch.html

This actually figuresin really well price wise when I factor in it comes with the Flywheel. The dual disc organix with the Steel flywheel for $995 (good to 855 ft-lb rated) vs. an RST (750) and Flywheel (300)

Looks like I'm doing a similar swap so will be following these threads closely and my head is starting to spin.... I currently have a centre force clutch which means a diaphragm style clutch is bolted to my flywheel (not three fingers as 747 has kindly explained to me) I'm just not sure if my flywheel is 130 tooth or 143 so not sure if I need to replace to bolt up clutch... If I don't then the RST would be my likely choice
 
This actually figuresin really well price wise when I factor in it comes with the Flywheel. The dual disc organix with the Steel flywheel for $995 (good to 855 ft-lb rated) vs. an RST (750) and Flywheel (300)

Looks like I'm doing a similar swap so will be following these threads closely and my head is starting to spin.... I currently have a centre force clutch which means a diaphragm style clutch is bolted to my flywheel (not three fingers as 747 has kindly explained to me) I'm just not sure if my flywheel is 130 tooth or 143 so not sure if I need to replace to bolt up clutch... If I don't then the RST would be my likely choice

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in because I would think you could tell which one you have by the starter. Surely you can't put a 143 tooth on in place of a 130 and expect the starter to still engage "right"? I would think the starter would have to be specific to the flywheel? I'm all ears

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Thanks to everybody for your advice, I always appreciate the guidance. I ended up going with a McLeod MCL-75225, it was the best fit for me being a little more street friendly, rated for my output and affordable. I would have loved to run the twin disc but at 500 hp (or under) I think that would be an overkill!
 
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in because I would think you could tell which one you have by the starter. Surely you can't put a 143 tooth on in place of a 130 and expect the starter to still engage "right"? I would think the starter would have to be specific to the flywheel? I'm all ears

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Thanks to everybody for your advice, I always appreciate the guidance. I ended up going with a McLeod MCL-75225, it was the best fit for me being a little more street friendly, rated for my output and affordable. I would have loved to run the twin disc but at 500 hp (or under) I think that would be an overkill!
130 tooth is 10 1/2 inch clutch. 143 tooth is 11 inch clutch. Bellhousings are specific to each. The starter mounts to the bellhousing.
 
130 tooth is 10 1/2 inch clutch. 143 tooth is 11 inch clutch. Bellhousings are specific to each. The starter mounts to the bellhousing.

Thanks Hemi Rebel! That is likely the info I needed! So I'm 90% sure I currently have a 10 1/2" which would mean I have the 130 tooth flywheel and shouldn't need to change. How can I confirm?
 
Sorry Benno I'm a bit confused. Are you running this Proformance one or the Science Friction/Kevlar? Anyone else on here have any experience with Proformance I'm liking the fact it comes with the flywheel

I am running the science friction/ Kevlar with the billet steel flywheel 143 tooth, A 130 tooth starter wont work on a 143 tooth flywheel. when you buy starter motors you have options to pick between the 2.

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Thanks Hemi Rebel! That is likely the info I needed! So I'm 90% sure I currently have a 10 1/2" which would mean I have the 130 tooth flywheel and shouldn't need to change. How can I confirm?

can you measure from side to side would probably be easiest way to confirm.
 
Thanks Hemi Rebel! That is likely the info I needed! So I'm 90% sure I currently have a 10 1/2" which would mean I have the 130 tooth flywheel and shouldn't need to change. How can I confirm?

I check mine in a very basic way. I took off the inspection cover and marked a tooth as a starting point with a yellow crayon. I then counted and marked off every 10 teeth (with a 1 for 10, 2 for 20...). When I ran out of room to count and mark them, I turned the motor over and kept going.

Yeah basic, but it worked. :eek:ccasion14:
 
6913-07 RST
6923-07 RXT
You will love it.

I noticed these are both unsprung hubs... any thoughts there? Thinking I answered my own question here... because it's twin it doesn't need to be sprung?

I check mine in a very basic way. I took off the inspection cover and marked a tooth as a starting point with a yellow crayon. I then counted and marked off every 10 teeth (with a 1 for 10, 2 for 20...). When I ran out of room to count and mark them, I turned the motor over and kept going.

Yeah basic, but it worked. :eek:ccasion14:

Thanks Hawk!
 
I check mine in a very basic way. I took off the inspection cover and marked a tooth as a starting point with a yellow crayon. I then counted and marked off every 10 teeth (with a 1 for 10, 2 for 20...). When I ran out of room to count and mark them, I turned the motor over and kept going.

Yeah basic, but it worked. :eek:ccasion14:

Sometimes you just have to think simple, may not be what I'd call quick and easy but it's a 100% way of figuring it out.
 
Sometimes you just have to think simple, may not be what I'd call quick and easy but it's a 100% way of figuring it out.

Never said I was a genius, so simple works for me!!! (smile)
 
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