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CO is killing me.

New gas, old gas, you don't know gas?
Exactly my thoughts ...... starting to wonder if this car has really old gas in the tank - it would be like burning varnish and the smell would be horrible.

Can the OP confirm if the tank has been flushed, or at least if there is only fresh gas in the tank? I bet it's old, as he stated that he stopped driving the car after the smell became unbearable.

Classic CO signs, throat scratchy, headache, lungs hurt. Once I had that happened I stopped driving it.
 
Exactly my thoughts ...... starting to wonder if this car has really old gas in the tank - it would be like burning varnish and the smell would be horrible.

Can the OP confirm if the tank has been flushed, or at least if there is only fresh gas in the tank? I bet it's old, as he stated that he stopped driving the car after the smell became unbearable.
Working in third tank of gas since I got it. If I keep it on the highway I can escape the worst of it. But city driving if any sort, or working on it in the driveway, forget about it.

And again, the smell isn't an issue, it's an indicator. The car is measured at over twenty times the normal ppm in CO for a mild, carburetor engine of the era. Admittedly, a sample of only two other cars, but they were both '60s with V8s and no emissions controls.

I'm really at a loss how I can't stress that part enough. Folks are weirdly focusing on trying to normalize that as if a biological process is a matter of just rubbing some dirt on it. It's disturbingly dangerous to hand wave it as a matter of toughness or whatever...
 
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Consider:






For being as prickly as you present yourself to be, you could do with reading some yourself.

To be clear as a bell for 'ya...you notice your response to the question asked has nothing to do with answering the question?

There is a possibility that your statement of the exhaust being 'clear' means the pipes come out from under the car, past the bumper so said exhaust is 'clear' from any flow restriction. That interpretation involves a bit of mental gymnastics.

...and the third quote box indeed was not a reply to his question, but a comment from yourself that applies.


If you are concerned about fuel pressure, how 'bout using a gauge to find out what it is? That beats plumbing in a regulator...then you STILL won't know what the fuel pressure is.

A timing light will (can) tell you a lot more than an initial timing number. Where the vacuum can starts the ignition curve, does that affect the idle circuit, what the total centrifugal timing is at what RPM and whether the weights are stuck/sticking...all of those things can effect the smell of the exhaust.

You mentioned having 'tuned' the carb...but no mention of float levels, needles/springs/jet choices. Does 'tune' in this instance mean you fussed with the idle circuit screws? That's not much in the way of 'tuning'.

Transfer slot orientation?

With the car idling and looking into the carb throat, do you see any fuel coming from the wrong places? That can be a dangerous point of view.

What is your idle vacuum? RPM?

Cam? A lopey cam running 6" of vacuum at idle and 10º of initial timing is going to stink.

Exhaust leaks? Headers on the car with what for collector gaskets? Use Remflex exhaust gaskets . As in, period.

New gas, old gas, you don't know gas?

Good luck.
The smell is an indicator, not the major issue.

Not sure what you're taking about clear and the exhaust. My response was to the initial question the fellow asked about my exhaust, seemed he wanted to know if it fouled, like rich cars tend to do.

I have a gauge, it's an inline one. If I'm going to the effort I may as well order a regulator with a gauge adaptor. I've always preferred to have a regulator on a mechanical fuel pump.

I'm not saying a timing light isn't useful. I'm saying it's less useful on an older engine, with unknown tolerances that has some age on it than it is in a new engine or a garage queen that's all bright and shiny. I'd say the RPM meter on one is going to be a more helpful tool in the end. I dare say, anyone with experience, including you, can listen to an engine in one of your cars and tell quite a bit about it under certain conditions. And everytime I've been able to smell a stinky lean car I've heard it as well. Not to mention some pinging and the like. And we've all heard really rich cars diesel and stumble.

I set the carb to factory, checked to make sure the rods and jets were not full of gravel and didn't look bent or blocked. Watched and made sure the rods were not bouncing all over. Did the drill bit test on the floats. The little goblins that live in the carb and piss gas down the throat were doing their job. I suspect when it's really hot some vaporization may be happening. Nothing boiled over. And what seals I saw I made sure they didn't turn to dust in direct sunlight from being a million years old.

Did I lay a vac gauge on it, A/F dual probes and time it? No. I leaned it as much as I could on idle, as that's what it's for, and made sure it didn't cause ping under load going up hill. But no, I did not run every test, tweak every thing, or rebuild the carb. I had a warm car at idle trying to kill everyone in a twenty foot radius with CO so I tried to lean it, at idle, to stop that so I could work on it easier.

I only was able to reduce it slightly by doing that. I'll probably get a heat spacer for this carb though.

Inside the car, with windows up, it's the safest place to be. But no AC means, yuck. I didn't see, any leaks or signs of leaks, not did a mechanic. Doesn't mean they don't exist. But a few people missed them if they do. Trunk has clean air in it after I run the engine for a bit and then shut it off and stick my head in it. Chucked my niece in and she couldn't see light. Ran a dollar bill around seal. But this is not the issue for when it's running and I'm outside of it.

New gas. I ran it to near empty first week. Because, yuck for old gas. Even though gas didn't smell old or stale. Ran it to near empty the last time because I wasn't paying attention.

I'll have parts to put the regulator and gauge in Tuesday. I'm considering getting a new carb, I doubt I'll spend 70 bucks to rebuild this one. I may rebuild it later to have a spare. I'll pick up a timing gun at harbor freight. But this weekend I'm relaxing the wheel well liner in my Challenge thanks to sometime hauling chunks of particle board to the dump in front of me.
 
I had a smell like that I thought was CO, turned out it was the valve seals leaking. It would actually make my eyes water, before I replaced them.
 
Not sure what you're taking about clear and the exhaust. My response was to the initial question the fellow asked about my exhaust, seemed he wanted to know if it fouled, like rich cars tend to do.
Repeating your error in understanding doesn't make the error go away.

The question:
Does you(r) exhaust come out the back under the bumper ?

...has not a thing to do with fouling and your response (again) indicates you are reading responses with a lack of comprehension.

Sorry Mr. Ellis: You are being too smart by half. If you do not understand a response, I suggest (a suggestion readily taken in good faith I am sure) you, first, read it again. If that doesn't work, ask the person that posted the response a question. What 'seems' to you is completely wrong in this instance. Unfortunately, what was asked SEEMS to be crystal clear to me. It's your response to what he said that indicates the SpedReddin course course you took didn't take hold.
 
Well canyncarvr if you read the whole thread you would know that the question on where the exhaust exits is irrelevant as the OP has repeatedly stated. The fumes are outside the car, at idle, measured with a meter at very high levels in comparison to other vintage cars with similar engines.
I see you've jumped across from A bodies, almost straight into this thread. Here we are a bit more forgiving for the most part. Less argumentative.
 
Since carbon monoxide (CO) is odorless, what you are actually smelling is excessive hydrocarbons (HC) as a result of a rich/lean condition, misfire, or other engine driveability concerns.
A previous post mentioned a CO swing of 100-500 ppm at idle, that is a big swing and indicates an unbalanced air-fuel mixture and poor combustion efficiency. By the way, 100 ppm of CO at idle would be good for one of these engines.
Emissions diagnosis involves the analysis of four gases, HC, O2, CO2, and CO; without considering these, any discussion on emissions is incomplete and of limited value.
Verifying the engine's mechanical values, such as vacuum and compression, as well as considering if there is a hot rod cam installed, is crucial for a thorough diagnosis.
Consider a major tune-up, including points, plugs, condenser, cap, rotor, and wires. Set the timing to the factory specifications.
Rebuild the carburetor and verify choke, float level and air-fuel settings. Also, ensure that the engine is reaching the proper operating temperature.
 
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You mentioned having 'tuned' the carb...but no mention of float levels, needles/springs/jet choices.
After skimming through this thread again - I know this guy has an Edelbrock carb.
I wonder if the floats or the adjuster for the floats are jammed or just set too high?

A great many years ago I helped a guy with his Mustang (fitted with a Holley DP) - running extremely rich at high altitude up a mountain. It was belching black smoke and barely running. It only took a few seconds and a deft clunk with a large adjustable wrench on the side to sort the problem. Stuck float in the front bowl.

We did a very quick disassembly to get the float lowered and the adjuster freed up - enough of a tune to get him down the mountain and back to the Chalet we were all staying at.

So....does the Eddy have a similar setup? If so, that is where I would start looking first.
 
After skimming through this thread again - I know this guy has an Edelbrock carb.
I wonder if the floats or the adjuster for the floats are jammed or just set too high?

A great many years ago I helped a guy with his Mustang (fitted with a Holley DP) - running extremely rich at high altitude up a mountain. It was belching black smoke and barely running. It only took a few seconds and a deft clunk with a large adjustable wrench on the side to sort the problem. Stuck float in the front bowl.

We did a very quick disassembly to get the float lowered and the adjuster freed up - enough of a tune to get him down the mountain and back to the Chalet we were all staying at.

So....does the Eddy have a similar setup? If so, that is where I would start looking first.
I used the method Edelbrock suggested years ago and gauged them with a drill bit. The round end of one. They both seemed fine. But it's not really a science.

I'm trying to decide if I I should get a new carb with a 650 bowl and rebuild this one just in case, at a later date. Or rebuild this one first.
 
Since carbon monoxide (CO) is odorless, what you are actually smelling is excessive hydrocarbons (HC) as a result of a rich/lean condition, misfire, or other engine driveability concerns.
A previous post mentioned a CO swing of 100-500 ppm at idle, that is a big swing and indicates an unbalanced air-fuel mixture and poor combustion efficiency. By the way, 100 ppm of CO at idle would be good for one of these engines.
Emissions diagnosis involves the analysis of four gases, HC, O2, CO2, and CO; without considering these, any discussion on emissions is incomplete and of limited value.
Verifying the engine's mechanical values, such as vacuum and compression, as well as considering if there is a hot rod cam installed, is crucial for a thorough diagnosis.
Consider a major tune-up, including points, plugs, condenser, cap, rotor, and wires. Set the timing to the factory specifications.
Rebuild the carburetor and verify choke, float level and air-fuel settings. Also, ensure that the engine is reaching the proper operating temperature.
Yeah, I metered two cars of the era and got a little over 100 ppm. I had no issue standing behind them or around them while they ran.

Thanks for the info that helps.
 
I spent many years an a state certified emission repair specialist in the 1990's. The state had emissions testing every other year on 1968 and newer cars.
Many carbureted cars to fix.

CO Carbon monoxide is a colorless orderless gas

If you lean out a mixture the hydrocarbons HC go way high

If you ignition timing is off either way the HC goes way high. It is a critical factor. The best timing for emissions is usually not the best timing for maximum power,

Your smell is high hydrocarbons HC
 
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