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Collision damage: How do they get these cars straight again?

Page 842 or around there 1970 Charger/Coronet in MyMopar service manual.

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I don't know if you saw the pics of how far down I had the GTX but I replaced the entire front clip including the top of the cowl with the vent slots. I had what it sounds like you have, that entire clip with the frame rails and inner fenders and radiator support assembly. I had the car on adjustable jack stands to get it perfect level, then we laid out this measurement diagram on the shop floor and dropped strings with washers ( jury rig plumb bobs) from the frame to the measurement points and that is how we got it all lined up. That seemed to work out just fine.

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I was at a guys shop a while back and we were talking about the shop i am planning. When he built his shop he made sunken anchor points in the concrete floor for anchors so he could chain down frame rails and use jacks to straighten frames on derby cars. Says that was one of the best things he added. The other was a legth of i beam laid in the concrete flush with the floor. Says more than once he has tack welded something to the floor when working on it.
 
I was at a guys shop a while back and we were talking about the shop i am planning. When he built his shop he made sunken anchor points in the concrete floor for anchors so he could chain down frame rails and use jacks to straighten frames on derby cars. Says that was one of the best things he added. The other was a legth of i beam laid in the concrete flush with the floor. Says more than once he has tack welded something to the floor when working on it.


I put 24 anchors in my floor when I built the shop, I'd be screwed without them....... I only wish I put heat in the floor also

that's how I jacked the front into position


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I put 25 anchors in my floor when I built the shop, I'd be screwed without them....... I only wish I put heat in the floor also
Can you snap a pic of one of your anchors? He used a 6 inch pipe set vertical with like a 3/4" bar going thru the "can" and tied into the rebar. He put 4 in the floor. He said he wished he had done more.
 
Can you snap a pic of one of your anchors? He used a 6 inch pipe set vertical with like a 3/4" bar going thru the "can" and tied into the rebar. He put 4 in the floor. He said he wished he had done more.

I made mine from 5 inch square tube with a 3/4" dowel near the top to wrap chain around..... they are a foot deep with angle iron feet welded to the base......... complete overkill, I'm sure..... this was 1998

gotta take the dog out, I'll snap a pic


lol.... my bad, 5 inch square

this is the original building, I added on a couple times......... 30 x 40 floor, 4 rows of 5 evenly spaced 8 feet apart.......plus 4 others, cause you know. 20 just isn't enough....... I wanted to be able to tie down anywhere........ we used stringline to get them all equal in height, then poured the floor to the tops of them....... it's a level mo fo!


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You can add anchors after the fact but they would have to be above the level of the floor. That is not as convenient.
 
I've always had access to one of these, it takes up a lot of floor space when in use....... that is the actual reason for so many pots, the whole plan has worked out well over the years


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