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Comp Eng. rear shock questions

wedge5

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I just read the Comp Eng. website about the different setting on their rear shocks and I must admit I am confused by what they wrote. They state that the 1st number is for compression and the 2nd for extension. So if I have mine set for 30/70 does that mean it takes 70% of my power to extend them and only 30% compress? This is where I am confused. I would think that it would be better if it took 30 to extend and 70 to compress. Don't you want the rear to be extended longer so the force is on the tires longer.

Am I looking at this wrong? Maybe I should switch them to 50/50?
I know I should get a better shock but as of now I don't so I would like to get some advice on this set up
 
I just read the Comp Eng. website about the different setting on their rear shocks and I must admit I am confused by what they wrote. They state that the 1st number is for compression and the 2nd for extension. So if I have mine set for 30/70 does that mean it takes 70% of my power to extend them and only 30% compress? This is where I am confused. I would think that it would be better if it took 30 to extend and 70 to compress. Don't you want the rear to be extended longer so the force is on the tires longer.

Am I looking at this wrong? Maybe I should switch them to 50/50?
I know I should get a better shock but as of now I don't so I would like to get some advice on this set up

It is more like say, 30 percent of the shocks dampening capacity on compression and 70 percent on extension. For front shocks you always hear about 90/10's because for weight transfer you want the front of the car to come up fast and stay there for a few feet or more to plant the tires. Dig daddio?
 
70/30 sounds like it will be stiffer on the extension side and loser on the compression side.
The old S/S guys use to run 50/50 shocks on the rear.
 
jeremiah is corect.the higher # should be first in order to help plant the rear tires with weight transfer to the rear longer.first # being compretion means that it will take that % of effort to compress the shock.for drag racing you would want 90/10 in the front to make the weight transfer a bit longer.a bit like doing a wheely without your tires leaving the ground.in the rear you want the lower # first to help the rear stay squated of compressed longer.visa versa front to rear is where you are getting confused.90/10 front and 10/90 rear is max settings.
 
"SHOCK BASICS
A shock is a hydraulic device that dampens or resists chassis movement by passing fluid (oil) through a set of orifices and valved passages. In an adjustable shock, manipulating the fluid movement through the valving of the shock changes the dampening characteristics -- softness and stiffness. The range of softness to stiffness is an important consideration when evaluating a shock's quality. A shock with a broad adjustment range will give more bang for the buck, because a broad adjustment range will give more opportunity to find the optimum setting for the chassis. Dyno testing has proven that AFCO's shocks offer one of the widest adjustments ranges in the industry.

Rebound is the shock's resistance to being pulled apart. It can be used to control chassis separation, the point at which the axle housing is pushed away from the chassis and the tires are applied to the track. During separation, many things occur. Vector forces push the chassis up and forward -- and the axle housing sees the opposite force, the tires become compressed and the sidewalls wrap up. As the car moves forward, torque is created as the tires create traction to start this movement. Excessive separation can lead to some undesirable side effects. For example, wheel hop, can occur as the tire tries to return to its original form, the tire unwraps. Stiffening the rebound can control wheel hop if excessive separation has occurred. Tire shake is similar to wheel hop and can be addressed similarly. As a rule of thumb, a "bad" or "bald" starting line will require a softer rebound setting to apply the tires with more force. A "good" starting line can use a stiffer setting, as inherent traction exists and a sitffer rebound setting provides quicker vehicle reaction times; excessive separation only wastes time and energy.

Compression (bump) is the shock's resistance to the chassis moving down or the axle housings moving up or into the chassis. The compression adjustment is an important setting, as it determines how long the tires are held down on the track after chassis separation. When a soft rebound is selected, a rule of thumb seems to be to use a slightly stiffer compression setting, so as to control the rebound of the tire. Track testing can determine the correct setting.

This brings us to AFCO's innovative Velocity Sensitive Valving. This system can enhance performance in many ways. This valving package is extremely sensitive to the speed at which the shock piston is moving. At the starting line, because of the intersection point, engine torque, gearing, tires, center of gravity relative to ground, the shocks will see the highest shaft or piston speeds. To control the suspension, the shock needs to be stiffer at the launch than down track. The AFCO shocks with their new valving actually react more stiffly when needed at the launch yet stay softer for riding the track's irregularities down track. Also, this new valving system is extremely sensitive to chassis tuner input: small changes in the valving will make a noticeable change in the performance of the chassis."
 
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67 B-body: Might want to put quote marks before and after your post or give credit to AFCO's site for the above. You know, "Give credit where credit is due."
 
67 B-body: Might want to put quote marks before and after your post or give credit to AFCO's site for the above. You know, "Give credit where credit is due."

Thought everyone would understand it was from AFCO....... Especially when the included sales pitch section of the write up referred to their state of the art technology.. Thought it would be a good read???
Was anyone else confused??
 
I knew someone would throw in a sales pitch for AFCO shocks
 
I am going to upgrade to AFCO next year sometime
 
They make really nice stuff. I am running a set of single adjustable QA1's and they are excellent as well.
 
I am going to upgrade to AFCO next year sometime

Are you getting adjustable ones?
Sounds like a good thing as long as the rest of the car is consistent...
My worry is that by the time I get the rest of the car figured out, the shocks might be trashed... LOL!
 
Got to the track today. I got my 60 ft down to 1.44 but was still spinning some. I am going to put in a smaller set of torsion bars 1st to see if that helps. When the car was a street car I installed a bigger set and never put the smaller ones back in.
Yes, I am going to put the Dbl adjustable ones in the rear. I have the Calvert 90/10's up front
 
After looking up the Afco shocks and seeing the price I am going to set my Comps to 50/50. Like I wrote earlier I have a few more tweeks to do before I drop that kind of $$$$ on shocks. Now I need to learn how to swap out torsion bars.

Thanks to everyone that posted with advice.
 
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