Competition Engineering shocks

[Burns69RT]

So I saw these competition engineering 3-way adjustable drag shocks.
1) does anyone have these? Ad how are they?
2) how is the ride street driving?
3) for drag racing what settings would be best, and for street driving what would be best?
Thanks for all your help guys, these shocks are $50 a piece so they seem very reasonable.

 

[Homstead]

I`ve used them in the front of my car. Set them at 10/90 and they worked great at the track. Never ran them on the street but I think if you reset them 40/60 they might work ok. It does say that they are for competition use only so if you used them on the street they might not last long? Mine are ten years old and going strong but have only been raced.

 

[Burns69RT]

Thanks for the info! And I'm curious to what setting the rears should be if front set to 10/90

 

[Shorthorse]

If your car is mostly street driven, don't aggravate yourself. These are basically bottom of the line racing shocks. They probably won't last very long on the street. I've had them on race cars and they're OK for that. You have to remove them to adjust them so if you have ideas of adjusting them once in awhile to go to the track, well, you get the picture. Don't be influenced by the word "race". They won't make your car go faster but if you absolutely must have them, look at places like Summit racing. The Summit brand is the same shock for $38.

 

[66Satellite47]

The rears have settings for 30/70, 60/40, 50/50. For street driving I'm guessing 50/50, but that's a guess. The way I interpret it, the 30/70 would be stiffer on compression, therefor a harsher ride. I understand the reason for strip only use is that they will heat up excessively if used as normal street shocks. I'm hoping that for short duration street use it won't be a problem since I have a set for the front & will likely be getting some for the rear.

 

[dvw]

Watch here as we run through track testing my buddys 64 Dodge. they worked pretty well for this intended use. Though the rears are Rancho, you will get the idea.
Doug

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjZDXBXRC9Q

 

[Burns69RT]

Doug, is the 64 dodge street driven at all? And how does it drive? I mean I don't need a perfect ride as I already have solid engine mounts and subframe connectors for the car.

 

[dvw]

It hasnt been lately but yes it is a streeter. Drives like any other early B body with no sway bar.
Doug

 

[66Satellite47]

Thanks dvw, the pictures really do tell a tale. Out of curiosity have you considered clamping the rear segments? Clamping the rear half combined with tightening the extension rate in the shock helped on my '65 Coronet back in the day. Just curious.

 

[dvw]

This was a spur of the moment deal trying to get it to run more consistent . It was done while being raced by 2 drivers in 2 classes at last years Monster Mopar event at Norwalk. I believe there is still more in it. During the Summer it was running 11.30's, by the end of the year it's been 10.60's. I agree that clamping might help. After the spin issue was cured now it's time to make it move forward instead of up. This car has relatively small tires 9x28 and a 4.88
Doug

 

[Burns69RT]

What do you guys mean by clamping the rear segments?

 

[dvw]

What do you guys mean by clamping the rear segments?

Rear leaf springs can "fan out" when the axle is dropped from the body. The first move any drag car will make is to try and throw the axle housing out of the car against the track. The trick is to allow the housing/tire assy to hit with just enough force to maintain traction. When it hits to hard, spin will follow soon after the initial hit. Tightening the shock or clamping the rear of the leaves so they can't seperate will reduce the housing travel lessening "hit". If you don't need the extra "hit" then you can use that energy to propel the car forward instead of wasted motion from unneeded chassis/housing movement. This will result in quicker ET.
Doug

 

[Cranky]

Cool vid dvw! Really shows what the car is doing. Got a couple of questions tho....have you ever considered lower the rear and have you ever scaled the car to see what the differences are between front and rear as it sits now? Have you ever taken a scale measurement with the back end lowered? It always impresses me to see cars with the rear of the body that high and still are able to maintain traction.....

 

[Shorthorse]

Great stuff Doug. My friend was having some issues and mounted his GoPro underneath and inside the rear bumper. It didn't take long to figure it out. It's not just a camera, it's a tool.

 

[dvw]

This is a friends car. I agree that it's to high in the rear. ParYvet of that in you're seeing it against the converter. I just used it as an illistration as to what can be done with tuning. My sons car is down to 1.38 w/3.55 and 275 radials. Mine is dwn to 1.25. We're both still looking to improve.
Doug

 

[383man]

I have been using them Comp Engineering shocks on the front of my 63 since 2010. I have them set on the 90/10 setting and they drive fine on the street as my car is a 99% street car. They seem to work fine at the track but honestly my 63 is nothing fancy on it as I basically use 70's suspension setups. All my suspension is stock other then the Comp front shocks and SS springs with the longer MP shocks in the back. But it drives fine on the street and has a best 60 ft of 1.50 like this running 10.70's. I could not really notice any difference on handling on the street when I put the Comp shocks on. But you can see just by lifting on the front of the car how it comes up easy and goes down slow. Ron



And I agree with everyone Doug as thats a nice vid. Thanks for posting it.

 

[ykf7b0]

So I saw these competition engineering 3-way adjustable drag shocks.
1) does anyone have these? Ad how are they?
2) how is the ride street driving?
3) for drag racing what settings would be best, and for street driving what would be best?
Thanks for all your help guys, these shocks are $50 a piece so they seem very reasonable.

I have ran these front shocks at 90/10 on the track but mostly on the street for the past 15 years. The car is driven around 2500 miles annually and the ride is just fine. No problems on the street and I have a best 60 ft time of 1.52 on the strip. I also have MP drag shocks in the rear, pinion snubber, sub frames tied, and Hemi/440 car leaf springs.