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Compression test hose #4 & #6 cylinders

dmoore

Mopar to the end
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Need a little input from you guy's. Replacing the Teflon seals in the 426-S with Viton. The Teflon seals were installed during the build 2002 way before my ownership. Due to the shock tower being so close I'm finding it difficult to start the compression hose fitting into #4 & #6 plug holes. Standard length Snap-On hose from my kit. A 90 degree adapter would be great hooking the air hose up under car. What have you guy's done in this situation? Replacing seals or just getting compression readings? Thanks!

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I've done compression test on my 440 in the '62 and don't remember really having that much trouble. I do have headers and my tester has a plug fitting that screws in first like a spark plug then you attach the hose. I know #4 is almost easier to install the plug from underneath.
 
I use a short crimp hose like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W84003-Flexible-Holder/dp/B0002KO3WY

Since the guides are all ready trimmed these seals are a good choice. They are avaiable in .500" and .530" guide boss. They stay snug on the guide and the seal is flexible unlike the Teflon seal. Been using them for years. Many sizes available


https://www.amazon.com/Cams-522-8-Valve-Viton-Metal/dp/B002EE0EFQ

Doug
Doug that is exactly what I am using...the snap on hose is probably a bit stiffer though. Using those exact Comp Cams Viton seals.
 
A short as possible 90 degree fitting would be the ticket! If I could just find one.
 
I thought about cutting off the insulator of one of the old plugs, drill and tap or weld a 90 to it. Whadda you think? Or maybe one of those non oil foul adapters? which ever would be shorter.
 
Like this.....just thread in a 90 degree fitting with 1/4" female end then screw in air fitting...

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Gonna try one of those Dorman antil oil foul adapter with a 90 degree fitting. Will report back with my findings. Thanks guy's!
 
Comments:
- use rope & run the risk of the rope getting a knot....
- those are very poor seals. Advertised as teflon but just cheap plastic. Very easy to split them where they neck down for the valve. Split can be hard to see, but will leak oil...
- best seals are the ones are Viton with a metal collar, & garter spring around the valve stem.
- no need for compressed air....or rope. Get an old screwdriver & put a 20-30* bend in the shaft. Bring piston towards top of bore [ so valve cannot fall in ]. Insert s'driver through s/plug hole with tip resting on valve. Valve will be held in place.
 
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