Cone type Sure Grip

[Gus]

Anyone running a cone type sure grip . just asking ran across a 741 case with 323 gears and a cone type Sure Grip that I just bought not sure what to do with it yet does anyone have a thought on this. I was looking for a clutch type. I have two 742 cases didn't know if anyone had any success with a cone type. Thanks, Gus

 

[Daves69]

If they are good they work just fine. I wouldn't have a problem with them.
If it's worn out here's an article that may interest you...
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-recondition-a-sure-grip-cone.28/

 

[Gus]

If they are good they work just fine. I wouldn't have a problem with them.
If it's worn out here's an article that may interest you...
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-recondition-a-sure-grip-cone.28/

Thank you, that was a very cool article very informative

 

[Fran Blacker]

Maybe Cranky will tell what fud part number for shims.

 

[Cranky]

Maybe Cranky will tell what fud part number for shims.

I've posted the part numbers in the past....did you save it?

 

[Cranky]

Thank you, that was a very cool article very informative

I always sold the clutch type units and kept the cone types for me since no one really wanted the cone type so the prices were usually lower. I've been bringing them back to life for 30+ years myself. The main problem with them is when they quit locking up, people have a tendency to hammer on them thinking that they will lock up again and when they don't and only spin one wheel like an open rear end, it eats them up for lunch and kills it for good. So, you need to pull it apart and check how much clearance you have between the cone face and the case halves if it still has some (has to have some in order for it to work) and also check the rest of the internal parts.

 

[dvw]

Most of the cones I've taken apart are worn out. The back side of the inner cone is bottomed on the outer cone. Usually filled with metallic silver mud. If you could get parts , no problem. I would not buy one with out taking it apart.
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

Have a cone unit I'm going to put in my 3.23 open diff. Before I mentioned p/n should have asked how to test a unit. I know put in both axles and hold one (left?)so in doesn't turn and try to turn the other. Right? How hard should it be to turn the axle?

 

[Cranky]

Years ago I made a set of T handles from a pair of old axles. The handles are 28" long and the axle stubs are 12" each. Stick them in the Sure Grip, stand it up and step on one T handle and twist the other. If you have to grunt to make the Sure Grip differentiate (is that a word ), then it's good. Thing is, it could be within a few thousandths of an inch before the cones face up against the case halves and could quit working in just a few weeks after testing it....but, at least you know it's probably still in good shape inside and machining the cones is most likely all it needs. Problem is, most machine shops don't like doing stuff like that since they will have to make a stub to put the cones on and time is money so they turn away from it. Doing them by hand can work too but well, the out come usually isn't all that pretty. A surface grinder can work but that's time consuming too. Years back I made a stub for them and it takes me probably 15 minutes to do both in my lathe. Anyone with a decent size home lathe can make a stub and do them or chuck them and use a grinder while the chuck is turning. I've seen all kinds of ways to do them. Btw, you only need to take off a minimal amount. I've never taken off more than .030"

 

[Fran Blacker]

Most of the cones I've taken apart are worn out. The back side of the inner cone is bottomed on the outer cone. Usually filled with metallic silver mud. If you could get parts , no problem. I would not buy one with out taking it apart.
Doug

Had 3 freeb's this is the last. Hate have right tire just start spin with any serious acceleration. It's no race car just need it to work.

 

[Gus]

I always sold the clutch type units and kept the cone types for me since no one really wanted the cone type so the prices were usually lower. I've been bringing them back to life for 30+ years myself. The main problem with them is when they quit locking up, people have a tendency to hammer on them thinking that they will lock up again and when they don't and only spin one wheel like an open rear end, it eats them up for lunch and kills it for good. So, you need to pull it apart and check how much clearance you have between the cone face and the case halves if it still has some (has to have some in order for it to work) and also check the rest of the internal parts.[/

I've posted the part numbers in the past....did you save it?

 

[Gus]

I always sold the clutch type units and kept the cone types for me since no one really wanted the cone type so the prices were usually lower. I've been bringing them back to life for 30+ years myself. The main problem with them is when they quit locking up, people have a tendency to hammer on them thinking that they will lock up again and when they don't and only spin one wheel like an open rear end, it eats them up for lunch and kills it for good. So, you need to pull it apart and check how much clearance you have between the cone face and the case halves if it still has some (has to have some in order for it to work) and also check the rest of the internal parts.[/QU

 

[Cranky]

Had 3 freeb's this is the last. Hate have right tire just start spin with any serious acceleration. It's no race car just need it to work.

You've had 3 freeb cone units and they only would spin the right side tire?

 

[Gus]

I always sold the clutch type units and kept the cone types for me since no one really wanted the cone type so the prices were usually lower. I've been bringing them back to life for 30+ years myself. The main problem with them is when they quit locking up, people have a tendency to hammer on them thinking that they will lock up again and when they don't and only spin one wheel like an open rear end, it eats them up for lunch and kills it for good. So, you need to pull it apart and check how much clearance you have between the cone face and the case halves if it still has some (has to have some in order for it to work) and also check the rest of the internal parts.

thanks, I will

 

[Fran Blacker]

You've had 3 freeb cone units and they only would spin the right side tire?

I was referring to the open diff. The sure grip I got from guys that had problems with rears or wrecked cars. One had threaded part of pinion broken off.

 

[oldbee]

Well I have a cone type in since oh 1988 or so. The oldest son drove it in high school & it still works great. I'm sure a "clutch" would be better just because of easier rebuildabilty, BUT, mine still works fine. I'm also sure the oldest didn't 'baby it',lol.

 

[moparmarks]

Hey Cranky you can only "rebuild" and shimm the cones so much before they are unusable right?

 

[oldbee]

Hey Cranky you can only "rebuild" and shimm the cones so much before they are unusable right?

LOL, well at a 1K a year; how long would it take? I'm sure 'Cranky' will chime in.

 

[Cranky]

I've done a few more than once. A buddy was racing his 440 6 pack Challenger and I was maintaining the 8 3/4. Don't remember his lowest ET but he had it solidly in the 11's. I did that one twice. Told him he'd be better off with a spool or a 60 for the weight the car was but he also drove it on the street from time to time. It was fully loaded with power windows etc. Generally, I do not add shims on the first 'rebuild' but will ad them on the 2nd. Ya got to keep in mind that the spiders/side gears need a bit of clearance to operate and too much shim thickness can put them into a bind so 'more shim the better' ISN'T what you want. The thinnest shim I can get (unless I make one) is .025" and sometimes the cones do not wear down that much. Just because someone removes .030 from the faces doesn't mean they seat in that much since they grip on the O.D. of the cone and not the face.

 

[Cranky]

LOL, well at a 1K a year; how long would it take? I'm sure 'Cranky' will chime in.

Depends on how you drive it. If you ain't batsheet crazy with it, it'll should last a life time lol.