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Converting an AC car to Non AC - 71 Charger R/T

superbird77

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Hello all, looking to see if anyone knows the rundown of what is needed to swap the factory AC out and go to a non AC factory setup. The car is a 1971 Charger R/T w/ factory 440 & power steering. Right now it has the factory AC compressor w/ two belts, a power steering belt and also the fan belt w/ idler. I believe I need a different crank pulley and for sure the water pump pulley. Are there any other items or issues I need to be aware of when doing this? I have listed a few thoughts below. Thank you!

Do I need a different alternator bracket?
Do I need a different water pump?
Does the idler pulley get removed from the non AC setup?
 
See if you can swap the entire setup to some one that wants A/C?
Mike
 
Can we ask, why do you want to remove the AC? I was just going to post on here if anyone has installed factory AC on a 67 Coronet and the details. The Coronet is a 67 with a 383-4 and a 4 speed.
 
Can we ask, why do you want to remove the AC? I was just going to post on here if anyone has installed factory AC on a 67 Coronet and the details. The Coronet is a 67 with a 383-4 and a 4 speed.


Just due to it having issues and missing some of the hard to find hoses. The compressor is clunking so a rebuild is needed and the reman ones seem to not be worth the time. My initial thought was to remove it, however i need to hunt down all the pulleys and alternator bracket. The heater box also needs a good rebuild as the seals are gone in it. I was thinking removing it was the easiest route since I don't need AC in that car.
 
Honestly, your car your choice...

That being said - I would keep the A/C system on your car - these mopars are not getting any cheaper nor going down in value - even the 3rd gens are going up quickly. R/T with a 440 and A/C sounds like a nice car to keep as original as possible. The set up does not need to be functional - no harm in keeping it on the car. Rebuilding the Compressor is pretty easy as is rebuilding the evaporator box. The hoses can be restored by Classic Auto Air or you can have universal style lines made a lot cheaper to replace the factory lines.

What parts are you missing that are proving difficult to find?
 
I did this. You can do this in two methods.

If you got deep pockets, you can get a complete kit from CVF Racing.

If you want to keep it stock looking, here's what you need.

1) Two Groove Crankpulley
2) Water Pump Pulley

Don't mess with used pulleys. Chrysler used so many different sized ones that it will drive you nuts. Just get the new ones I listed. You should have an offset pulley if you have a '71 crank.

I'm not sure about the belt length. I just set the alt & p/s about midway in the slot, used a piece of string to measure the length, I then ordered the closest sized belt from Summit Racing.

You can use your AC alternator bracket, it's just really close to the block. The water pump pick up on the inner grove, P/S on the outer. You don't need the water idler pulley.

Here's mine using the AC alternator brackets before I upgraded the alternator:

20190125_203741.jpg


Oh, I forgot to add, these pulleys will spin your alternator 15% slower, hence why I upgraded to a 220 amp unit.
 
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If you wanna do this on the cheap just loose the belt get a shorter belt to bypass the compressor same with the heater just by pass the hoses that way you still have all your factory parts and there not hurting anything
 
If you wanna do this on the cheap just loose the belt get a shorter belt to bypass the compressor same with the heater just by pass the hoses that way you still have all your factory parts and there not hurting anything

That's incorrect. The alternator belt won't clear the water pump bolts. Shredded a belt trying this. The pulleys must be replaced.

However, you can run the alternator directly off the crank pulley, IF you drop the alternator down to change the angle of the belt, and there are brackets to do that.
 
Sorry noticed this was big block I used to do this on small blocks all the time ! Thanks for the catch
 
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