Correct installation of green axle bearings.

[RJRENTON]

All new sealed hub bears I have dealt with have been roller. The reason for ball type bearing to be drop was due to wear in shipment. The rocking of rail cars would wear the balls and race out. Had nothing to do with the life of the bearing once delivered.

The "wearing out" of the rotating elements during shipment, I assume, are the automobiles or devices containing the referenced bearing assemblies and not the roller bearing assemblies in the actual rail cars transporting the automobiles or devices. Tapered roller bearing assemblies have been in use in railroad cars for the last 75+ years in lieu of the old babbit lined journal bearings. Rail service is a demanding and critical service, which necessitates superior equipment, hence tapered roller bearings.
The L-10 life of a bearing (any bearing type) is a statistical sampling of a gtoup of the actual bearing performance when operated at design maximums for a given time interval, to produce a normal bell shaped distribution life curve, where the average of the sample group, exceeded the forcasted life expectancy. I refer you to the Roller Bearing Manufacturer's hand book of standards and practices, for clarification.
BOB RENTON

 

[5.7 hemi]

This thread is not about what bearing is better, so let’s get back on track.

 

[vintage chromoly]

Just pressed my green bearings on my Dana axles the other day.

 

[1967coronet]

The photo above is the improved design with the snap ring and bearing retainer plate. The original design had the retainer plate as part of the bearing, so it was prone to cracking.
The disk brake kit wants you to use the green bearings so the axle ends are a known distance from the flange that the brake bracket attaches to.
One issue that happens with the green bearings is the axles will contact the thrust block in the center diff. Either remove the thrust block or grind a small amount off the axle shaft so the axles can be installed all the way. Otherwise the axle bearings could be side-loaded and they will wear out quickly.

Some of the brake kits like Willwood, you don't even use the retainer plate because the caliper bracket acts as the retainer plate.

How much do you need to take off the axle end if you leave the thrust block in ?

 

[451Mopar]

How much do you need to take off the axle end if you leave the thrust block in ?

put some grease or something like that on one axle end, and install it, then check if the grease is squished (if there is clearance, it won't squish all the way.)
I don't recall how much was removed. maybe 1/8" total?
I think many of the rear disc brake setups could be run with the tapper bearings, but the caliper brackets would need shimmed/adjusted to center the caliper on each side. Not sure if the bracket would need modified to clear the adjuster?
Really, you could weld the caliper bracket to the axle (after aligning and centering the calipers), then the bolt on bracket would not be needed.

 

[70chall440]

Exactly what I did on my Cuda, welded the brackets onto the rearend housing.

 

[vance.dykes]

when i first started to work on mopars i was learning from old school guys [early 70's ] that if an axle broke with stock barrings the axle you are stuck and N.H.R.A had a rule that at a set e.t /m.p.h you had to use them green RP-400 so they wouldn't fly out and hurt someone. remember when Richard Petty drag racing and had an axle come out and kill a kid and that was the end for him and drag racing.

 

[mopar 3 B]

when i first started to work on mopars i was learning from old school guys [early 70's ] that if an axle broke with stock barrings the axle you are stuck and N.H.R.A had a rule that at a set e.t /m.p.h you had to use them green RP-400 so they wouldn't fly out and hurt someone. remember when Richard Petty drag racing and had an axle come out and kill a kid and that was the end for him and drag racing.

That only applies to center pined axles. 8-3/4 and Dana axles are not center pined.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Just pressed my green bearings on my Dana axles the other day.

View attachment 894516

They dont look like they are pressed on all the way in this pic, are they? Looks as though you have another inch or so to go but could just be my eyes and the picture

 

[vintage chromoly]

They dont look like they are pressed on all the way in this pic, are they? Looks as though you have another inch or so to go but could just be my eyes and the picture

They are all the way on.

 

[vance.dykes]

They dont look like they are pressed on all the way in this pic, are they? Looks as though you have another inch or so to go but could just be my eyes and the picture

there all they on . i made the mistake of thinking that they weren't on mine cut 1 off and found it was. dont make my mistake .

 

[Kernel Sanders]

I used the greens on my cut down cbody 8.75 axles for my Dart installed almost 10 years ago and when I pressed the greens and collars on I had enough machined surface for the inner seals to make a seal. This is why I asked as it 'looks' to my eyes that your machined surface above the collar is still covered by the collar. Its just an observation from my eyes on your picture but I DO need a new prescription that I cannot deny.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Never mind I think I see why my eyes are playing tricks with me

the collars on yours @vintage chromoly are way thicker than I've seen before... you may not be able to use your inner seals... luckily they are not needed with greens.

 

[khryslerkid]

They dont look like they are pressed on all the way in this pic, are they? Looks as though you have another inch or so to go but could just be my eyes and the picture

I see his locking collars are taller...

His...

Mine...

 

[Kernel Sanders]

We think alike I think @khryslerkid

Or perhaps see alike? lol

 

[vintage chromoly]

It’s all good fellas.
The exchange of ideas is what makes the board great.
You may be right about using the inner seals.

 

[khryslerkid]

Never mind I think I see why my eyes are playing tricks with me

the collars on yours @vintage chromoly are way thicker than I've seen before... you may not be able to use your inner seals... luckily they are not needed with greens.

View attachment 895294 View attachment 895295

Lol, how'd that happen!

My axles are from Dr. Diff. They are the conversion ones to eliminate the tapered axle on the early 8 3/4. Cass sent me inner seals to replace the original ones.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Yes even being not required, I put new inner seals in too for a little extra piece of mind.

Havent had any issues with the greens or seals in the last almost 10 years of use. Had the rear apart a few times over the years to change up the gears from originally the 2.76 then to 3.55 then to add a suregrip and then to settle finally on 3.23's with suregrip.

And yes I've used this site and FABO a lot for the awesome people and the information shared here... saved me a lot of time and grief with my cars over the years. Hats off to y'all!

 

[Ron H]

I'm on my 2nd set of greens now as the 1st set toasted after about 18 months and 1200 miles. Could be I had got a set that was defective as has been mentioned in posts here. Yes, there are MANY opinions on these and among them had heard green's are not as strong as the tapered for cornering. One of doze mysteries of life...I'll be sending out a WTB ad for an adjuster plate if this set goes to chit.

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm on my 2nd set of greens now as the 1st set toasted after about 18 months and 1200 miles. Could be I had got a set that was defective as has been mentioned in posts here. Yes, there are MANY opinions on these and among them had heard green's are not as strong as the tapered for cornering. One of doze mysteries of life...I'll be sending out a WTB ad for an adjuster plate if this set goes to chit.

I reiterate my point regarding the AXIAL (cornering) load capabilities of the Green style bearing. It looks like the only way to get any engineering information on the Green bearing's type or manufacturer's part number (all bearings have a manufacturers part number somewhere on the assembly) is to buy one and do my own checking. There are many factors that determine the suitability of a particular type (single row ball, both Conrad type and maximum type, double row ball, duplex angular contact, straight roller, spherical roller, and tapered roller designs and the bearing's internal clearances, eg. Class 2, Class 3, etc.). These factors include: position, temperature, RPM, axial load and radial load capabilities, sealed or shielded or both, method of installation, any preloaded conditions, etc.
Does one type of bearing satisfy all conditions: NO. The application must be based many conditions including cost, L-10 life expectancy, safety, availablity, ease of installation etc.
I'll do my own due diligence with regard to retro fit parts for my applications rather than some other person's opinion, especially the "my buddy" rule or other unsubstantiated information. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON