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Crank/head long term storage recommendations .....

bandit67

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Guys, just got back several cranks I had reground. They were not bagged, or greased and will begin degrading very soon unless I take some long term storage steps. Ive ordered plastic bags but wondering what the best preservative to spray them with. Ive used WD 40 in the past and that does not seem to last long, even with the bag tied up. My shop is kept dry, but here in the south , we have high humidity for months. What stuff have you had good luck that lasts for a long time and will be easily cleaned off when the time comes to use. thanks......
 
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High Tack red spray a gasket. Just sold a crank That I sprayed 40 years ago. It was like new underneath.
 
We have used regular wheel bearing grease on everything. Then wrap in a garbage sack and stood up.
Yes it's a mess but does the job for years.
 
I have used this, Birchwood-Casey-Barricade-Protection- I know that it is advertised for firearms. You are in the sticky south and this was developed for gater hunters in Mississippi.It lasts a long time and spray- on is a pluss. For looong time storage nothing beats cosmoline or grease.
 
And like posted but not pushed stand or hang do not lay the crankshaft
 
And like posted but not pushed stand or hang do not lay the crankshaft
I think that "standing" cranks has been debunked. But is still a good idea. I have 18 or, so, early Hemi cranks stored that way, only because it requires less floor space.
 
A friend set a crankshaft on end, from his Olds W30. When the dog knocked it over no one picked it up and several months later it was bent and junked. The angle it took on, was clearly visible. I don’t remember if it was cast or forged but, I would expect it was a forging.
 
A friend set a crankshaft on end, from his Olds W30. When the dog knocked it over no one picked it up and several months later it was bent and junked. The angle it took on, was clearly visible. I don’t remember if it was cast or forged but, I would expect it was a forging.
Cast. 99% of GM cranks were cast.
 
I worked for Scat cranks for years. Almost all our cranks were laid on their side and boxed. If a crank can bend from its own weight then it would never survive in a motor making 700@7000. We had old stock we checked before shipping and everything was in spec. Only reason we put them on end was for space.
 
Saw a guy bend a crank in half over his knee once. To be fair, he was a pretty tough guy.
 
I used Uni-Strut to make rails for the cranks to hang from. I have used a few different ways to keep cranks from rusting.
I now have been using RP-342 you can buy on the internet by the can or case. cosmolinedirect.com or amazon Here are few methods some
from left to right.
1 Big Johnny's Crank Lube used to get it from Jefferson swap meet in the 90's I haven't seen it in years very much like RP-342
2 Biral spray grease messy and does not last long and expensive
3 Clear silicone spray preservative, used this until I found RP-342
4 RP-342
5 The front crank was greased in a bag when I got it. Was in a shed for years grease melted away. Grease is good for a few years only
then needs to be reapplied. The crank right behind that one has Goodson brand RS-16 on it. Seams like good stuff but I only ever had one
can of that stuff.
I also use RP-342 on flywheels and drums and rotors.

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rp342.jpg
 
Many years ago, we made hillbilly cosmoline or the original zebart. We dissolved tar in kerosene and used a garden sprayer to apply it. Used on a 60-ford falcon that was on the road for 40 years. Stinks for about 6 months but no rust.
 
Fluid film for a second.. Had a buddy call the other day that I told him to spray underneath mower deck. No clippings at all. For storage & price? What’s not to like? Stays put especially with no water hitting it.
 
Spray the items with an oily protectant. This provides a barrier between the O2 in the air the the surface of the item(s). But laying them bare in a cardboard box leaches off the oil into the paper cardboard. They could still rust in a cardboard box.
Store them in a place where temperature changes are minimized (a bedroom closet is ideal). Temperature swings can create condensation and corrosion within the wrapping, unless a desiccant is used.
Cover them in a way that minimizes empty air space around the item and loss of surface oil. Example: wrap the item tightly in plastic wrap instead of a baggy trash bag.

Or, store them in a way and area that provides all of the above, no moisture, no temperature swings, no wind, nothing. Just quiet, long-term hibernating stasis.
 
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