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Crank pulley hole off

dodge68charger

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All the bolt holes except one line up on my 440 engine. Anyones else have this problem. Should i enlarge the hole. Thanks image.jpg
 
Yes, just take a die grinder and elongate that one hole. I did with no problem. I don't know the reasoning behind the odd-ball hole............................MO
 
Seems like all the new harmonic balancers have symmetric hole spacing. The originals did not. I just did the same as you need to do on my new 451 using my original pulley and new balancer - oblong that one hole and you are good to go.
 
If you rotate the pulley enough, you can get all the holes to align. That is assuming you have the offset pulley as well as the offset balancer. Not certain of the reasoning behind this. You can either slot one of the holes, as others have suggested or just leave the bolt out.
 
Makes you wonder why they did it to begin with, it's not like the pulley has counter weights or anything?
 
My racecar only runs 2 of the bolts, always looking to save weight.
Doug
 
Looks like you have an externally balanced damper. You can enlarge the 1 hole that doesn't line up or get a pulley that's made for an externally balanced damper. I have a 70 six barrel. They came on 70 & 71 440's.

Chuck
 
Some good info on Dampers and Pulleys:

Stock Damper Info:

Over the approximately two decades that "B" engines were in production, a total of 17 different balancers (or at least part numbers for balancers) were used. Use the table at the bottom of this page to give a year by year breakdown of what balancer every engine used.

One important note is that starting in 1972, the bolt pattern on the front of the damper was changed to be exactly symmetrical. (Damper 1858382 is the only exception to this rule) Before this (71 and earlier) there is one bolt that is offset slightly, forcing the pulley to be installed only one way. (In case you are curious, the bolt is the second hole away from the woodruff key in the counterclockwise direction - it should be right in line with the timing mark.) So, because of this any pre 72 pulleys/dampers are not interchangeable with post 72 models.

Be careful of this when buying balancers at swap meets - bring your pulley with you or verify the casting number. Speaking of casting numbers, we have found that probably 80% of dampers do not have any identifying numbers on them. The only way to find out what they are for is to try and work backwards. For instance, is it for a cast or forged crank? A cast crank damper will have an elliptical offset weight in one side, while a forged crank damper will be perfectly round. Second, check the bolt pattern for the offset hole... this will narrow it down to half of the list. We have tried to list pictures of every common damper further down this page, in addition to new ones.

http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm
 
good read, still doesn't "explain" why one hole was off from the rest
 
yea, I know that, but "why" did they do it? Why make one hole offset? What was the thinking behind this?
 
doesn't explain why Chrysler did this? Can you?

see post #11
 
I think the "why" is lost to history. You can oblong any hole hole and it will perform the same, so who knows? The way product development goes, it may have been a hold over from a time when it was necessary to index the crank pulley in some other application.

- - - Updated - - -

My racecar only runs 2 of the bolts, always looking to save weight.
Doug

That's pretty tricky, Doug. There's another guy here (can't remember who) who trims every bolt on the car to the minimum necessary length and uses aluminum bolts in low stress areas.
 
If that hole is inline with the timing mark on the damper would be a quick check to see if the damper was assembled correctly or if it has slipped. Just a guess
 
pulley bolt circle layout

have always wondered if it was for balancing purposes. every thing that bolts to the crank including the flywheel/flexplate and the damper/pulley is non symmetrical and wheather the pulley/ balancer and flywheel or flexplate were balanced in any relation to the crank to be used remains to be seen. you could balance any or all and SOME do a final balance after the crank and flywheel/damper have been machined and assembled. why else from a mfg. standpoint would mnt. holes be non symmetrical. they are that way so they will index in position. furthermore, the factory flexplates I've worked wirh in years gone by appeared to be stamped as balanced, but index one way only. so, does any one think that is reasonable? the answer to the original question is that pulley holes were non sym. up to a model year of 71 or 72 I think, then im sure they went to a sym. pattern for I'd say cheaper mfg ? and I only know about bb's. I never worked on small blocks .
 
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My racecar only runs 2 of the bolts, always looking to save weight.
Doug
Another way to save weight is to go to the crapper before you race. Use gut clean out product for maximum benefit! 8-) ..............................MO
 
Thanks guys. I thought i had the wrong pulley. Gonna head to the shop tonight n get out the die grinder. Appreciate the replys
 
I think the "why" is lost to history. You can oblong any hole hole and it will perform the same, so who knows? The way product development goes, it may have been a hold over from a time when it was necessary to index the crank pulley in some other application.

- - - Updated - - -



That's pretty tricky, Doug. There's another guy here (can't remember who) who trims every bolt on the car to the minimum necessary length and uses aluminum bolts in low stress areas.

There's a reason you can get a 64 Belvedere down to 3130lbs with all steel body(-hood). Even when it has a full 14 pt cage, finished interior, fire system, 2 battery's, mega block, and a Dana. LOL
Doug
 
"There's a reason you can get a 64 Belvedere down to 3130lbs with all steel body(-hood). Even when it has a full 14 pt cage, finished interior, fire system, 2 battery's, mega block, and a Dana. LOL
Doug"



At 3130#, you really did pay attention to the details!!! Alum spool & drive shaft?
 
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