Crankshaft- Is it forged or cast?

['67Satellite]

Lucky

 

[ZombiePopper]

Well,
i was wrong...
of course, it's not the first time and probably not the last lol

 

[Boise68]

Well,
i was wrong...
of course, it's not the first time and probably not the last lol

And I am glad you were, thanks for feedback just the same!

 

[ZombiePopper]

Hey I'm glad it worked out for ya, I'd go 451 if i was choosing those things are torque monsters, horsepower tv on the power block (or whatever it's called now) built one, huge dyno #'s

 

[BCBOUND]

Definitely without a doubt go with the 400 block, 440 crank and rods with new stroker pistons. Not much more that a stock rebuild. 440 LY rods are all over the place. Resize the 440 rods with ARP bolts, Grind the 440 mains down to 383 size. Stay with 9.0-9.5 to 1 CR and you will love how fast it revs and how much power you have with pump gas.

Make sure the crank rings like a bell when tapped with a ball peen hammer. If it doesn't ring its cracked.

 

[Boise68]

Make sure the crank rings like a bell when tapped with a ball peen hammer. If it doesn't ring its cracked.

Had to go out in the garage and tap on it, She rings like a church bell!

Thanks for the build feedback. The shop that has my 400 block has 4 different mopar stroker builds that look almost completed, maybe some 440 rods there.

 

[Meep-Meep]

If you want a good running street engine that you can build relatively cheap go with the 440. No hassling with special crank prep or clearancing and will save a few bucks. Start with good machine work and pop in a mild hydraulic cam. The 440 in my green Bel is a good recipe.

 

[Boise68]

Thanks Meeps, this week I am headed to the machinist to go over sonic test of the 400. Over the phone he said that 2 cylinders were 'thin' if going with a high horsepower build. lI'll drop off the 440 block to be checked then.

A good running street engine is definitely the goal, with a high percentage of highway miles.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Thanks Meeps, this week I am headed to the machinist to go over sonic test of the 400. Over the phone he said that 2 cylinders were 'thin' if going with a high horsepower build. lI'll drop off the 440 block to be checked then.

A good running street engine is definitely the goal, with a high percentage of highway miles.

Even more reason to keep it relatively mild and crisp. Smooth profile cam won't require a ton of spring so valve train components will last longer and won't be as stressed. Better oil tolerance too. Not that you will run crappy oil, but if you get in a pinch and have to dump in whatever, you shouldn't be worried that your cam will go flat. Less overlap will keep the vacuum up and an earlier intake closing will help maintain cylinder pressure. 112 LSA is magic on a daily driven street 440.

 

[Challenger340]

NOTHING wrong with a std inch 440 !!
We recently did a couple of el cheapo 440 pump gas builds with Flat Tappet Cams, Stock LY Rods etc.

We Dyno everything before it leaves, so I can dig up the sheets if you want ?

* One came in at 490hp and 550 ft/lbs all in by 5,000 rpm(leave it in "D" Engine)
and the same parts list re-worked with Porting, etc)
* came in at 545hp and 565 Ft/Lbs all in by 5,500 rpm(bit more show off factor)

Anybody else here have trouble posting/typing when trying to respond on here ? It is like it only accepts every second letter when trying to type ?
Pain
In
The
A**

 

[Boise68]

NOTHING wrong with a std inch 440 !!
We recently did a couple of el cheapo 440 pump gas builds with Flat Tappet Cams, Stock LY Rods etc.

We Dyno everything before it leaves, so I can dig up the sheets if you want ?

* One came in at 490hp and 550 ft/lbs all in by 5,000 rpm(leave it in "D" Engine)

I would be interested in parts list for your basic 440, what combination of parts gets the extra horsepower. Thanks, Michael

No problems with posting here..

 

[Challenger340]

OK,
Basically an identical parts list for both Engines, being;
440 Block
stock 440 Forged Crank
stock ly Rods W/ARP Bolts
ICON 9953 Forged Pistons
5/64" Moly Rings
Clevitte Main & Rod Bearings
Durabond Cam Brgs
ARP Main Studs
MP Windage Tray
Melling HV Oil Pump
Cloyes T/Chain & Gearset
Speed Pro O/H Gasket Set
Valley Pan
440 Source Stealth Heads
440 Source Rockers, Pushrods, Head Bolts & hardware
Performer RPM Intake Manifold
850 Holley Carb
6 qt Oil Pan & Pickup

The difference between the 2 Engines in HP & Torque... was while the lower Engine used a XE274 Flat Tappet Hydraulic CompCam & Lifters with pretty much OOTB Stealth Heads...
the Higher output Engine used "ported" Stealth Heads, Gasket Matched Intake and an XE284 Flat Tappet CompCam & Lifters, which made quite a difference.
The porting is well worth while on the Stealths !

Do you want me to dig up the actual Dyno Sheets ?

 

[Boise68]

Thanks for taking the time to post your list Challenger340. I was just looking at the 9953 pistons online. No need for the dyno sheets just now.

 

[Boise68]

400 Sonic test results

Dropped of the 440 for hot tank, mag check & sonic test. The 400 sonic test results are posted below. The suggestion was to keep the build to stock stroke 400 hot street build, a stroker 451 would require a couple of sleeves.



Waiting for the 440 68 block results I should mention that a stock stroke 400 450hp/450tq+ has the edge because I am already setup with 1 7/8 tti headers. But if building the stock stroke 440 is a now brainer I am sure I could sell the low deck tti's?