I have a few projects that I would like to try the powder chrome on.
Custom Powder Coating ...
- Thread starter CudaChick1968
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Yes, Leanna does a kick *** job duplicating factory wrinkle finish! Here's a little before and after.
CudaChick1968
Leanna ~ The Mistress of Metal
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I have been using a single stage the last few years that doesn't require a dulling clearcoat to retain UV stability. It looks better in my opinion in smaller doses (accent areas) than on full-body parts but is still better than other chrome replicas I have shot in the past. It was used on all of these parts.
I'd love an opportunity to earn your business Scott!
hanks73340
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Love the Coke sign....
CudaChick1968
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Love the Coke sign....
Thanks Hank!
It's actually a 43-lb. cast iron bench back. It was a fun project!
It got a Powder **** YouTube video; there are a few Before Pics at the end if I remember right.
CudaChick1968
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Some new Powder ****!
Although it seems most of the shows have been canceled or postponed, it's REALLY picking up the last couple of weeks with new parts arriving and lots of quote requests. It almost feels like the Fall Teardown Season instead of cruising time. Thank you ALL for helping me feel "essential."
Although it seems most of the shows have been canceled or postponed, it's REALLY picking up the last couple of weeks with new parts arriving and lots of quote requests. It almost feels like the Fall Teardown Season instead of cruising time. Thank you ALL for helping me feel "essential."
Good to hear you are staying busy Leanna. I was at my buddies custom upholstery shop yesterday. He is out a year and a half or better. The hobby is still alive.
rich hourigan
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Leanna, im almost ready to buy a new gas tank for my GTX, Im thinking about having it powder coated but i read somewhere that baking it in the over to cure the powder could possibly ruin/weaken the welds on the tank... does this sound right to you? Have you ever coated a gas tank.. im talking about the exterior of the tank... thanks for any feedback, BTW... beautiful work .
I'm looking for something for you to do on my car. I had a place down the street from my old house that did what you do, but I'd rather have you do it and pay for the shipping. I truly believe you are part of us. If nothing else, I'm loyal. You do outstanding work, be proud of it, I am.
SgtSuperbird
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I would have enjoyed seeing the Coke owner's face when you first unveiled the refinished bench back. Wow!I have been using a single stage the last few years that doesn't require a dulling clearcoat to retain UV stability. It looks better in my opinion in smaller doses (accent areas) than on full-body parts but is still better than other chrome replicas I have shot in the past. It was used on all of these parts.
I'd love an opportunity to earn your business Scott!
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Hey, when you're Good, You're Good!
CudaChick1968
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Hey Rich, I have never heard of that on automotive gas tanks* but Bondo on motorcycle tanks and internal sealers are why I tend to avoid those.
I really see no reason why a fuel tank couldn't be coated. If you want to move forward please PM me with its measurements so I can make sure it will fit in my blast cabinet. The hangers could also be done.
* After seeing light through welds on way too many fabricated valve covers, it might hold true on new fuel tanks too. They don't make -- or devote the craftsmanship to -- anthing like they used to.
Thank you for the kind words!
bm02tj
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After you powder coat the tank they could go to a aircraft maintenance shop and get the sealer they use for aircraft tanks
I know the antique car guys use it to save gas tanks
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catal...FPuMmdjA5rjfH3tARj8tds_eft131pRhoCTtcQAvD_BwE
I know the antique car guys use it to save gas tanks
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catal...FPuMmdjA5rjfH3tARj8tds_eft131pRhoCTtcQAvD_BwE
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As a guy that builds "wet wing" aircraft fuel tanks I HIGHLY suggest NOT using sloshing compound to coat the inside of a gas tank. Sooner or later it comes off in sheets and really ruins your day. Well not as ruined as a aircraft guy, as you can coast off to the side of the road when it smothers your intake sock in a car!
BTW, what you linked IS a sealant used to build tanks and seal seams when riveting, but you can't use that to slosh the insides.
This is the link I think you wanted, but there is a reason they state "for experimental aircraft only".. because Transport Canada doesn't care what stupid things are done outside of the certified world. https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/appages/gastanksealer.php
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We've all used it.. I still use it if need be inside floats if I can't get to a spot to seal conventionally, but learned over 20 years ago that silence is no fun at 500 feet AGL! Not so bad at 5000, but low and slow certainly sucks!
CudaChick1968
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That was for FABO member Larry Mayes' wife Sue. He sent me a couple pics when she opened it. 43 lbs. of cast iron and a VERY fun project to work up.
pro-streeter
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Can you powder coat the black shadow paint on my road runner emblems. I have the doors and the trunk lid 1969 road runner and want them to appear stock with a shiny finish on the face and black shadow paint or powder coat. I have already removed all the original black
Cornpatch MO
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If leanna doesn't do those, I just restored one. Clean it very well with a stiff bristle tooth brush. Clean off flakey paint with a brass brush. Clean with acetone. Mount it on a corrugated cardboard by pushing the pins through it. Paint with a good flat black rattle can...light coats. Wrap a shop towel tightly around your finger tip, damped with laquer thinner. Lightly -repeatedly wipe off the paint on the surface of the letters. move the shop towel often on your finger to keep off a build up of paint. I don't know how long it will last, but looks good.....................MO
CudaChick1968
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I just had a message about emblems a couple days ago. This is what I told Nick. (His were black, red, white and blue so disregard the part about the multiple cure cycles.)
"Chances are good it's probably pot metal, though I'm not certain. I've done emblems in the past (with success) but there is always a chance excess air in the casting or impurities in the metal can make them blow up with bubbles when it's heated to cure the powder.
Generally, thinner pieces turn out better than thick ones (i.e. emblems vs. door handles or hood inserts) but it's still always a crap shoot from one to the next ... you just never know what pot metal is going to have in it since it's cast from all the steel plant leftovers on any given day. Pewter for example has a melt point of 140 degrees.
Consider too that it would need to go through four separate heat cycles, one for each color.
It's a decision only you can make. I won't try to talk you into it. Since you already had it replated especially, you've already "got skin in the game" ... and know better than me on market availability and rareness. If they're cheap and easy to find, that can be an easier decision to experiment on versus a one-year-only piece that cost $345.
I don't have any work sample emblems on my phone but there are quite a few on my website Gallery (in the Misc. Metals / Other Car Parts section) you can check out.
If you have questions or want to talk about details, just call me.
Thanks for thinking of me and for the opportunity to earn your business!
Leanna
731-613-9192 after 10 a.m. central"
These were from a Dodge 800 a few years ago. The Before Picture is on the left.
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