Dana 60 guys! .016" backlash. How much shim to remove from

[Cranky]

the right and put on the left to get .006-.010"BL?

 

[zyzzyx]

Well, hopefully you have a case spreader, so I would guesstimate 0.010 to0.012 swap.
Remember, you're working with a steep angle on the ring gear!

 

[Cranky]

Well, hopefully you have a case spreader, so I would guesstimate 0.010 to0.012 swap.
Remember, you're working with a steep angle on the ring gear!

Gots a spreader. Was thinking .010. Have to pull off at least one bearing and I haven't had much luck pulling them off in the past. Figure I can insert a shim on the other side outboard of the bearing race. Think I have some shims that size. Buying one new bearing is better than buying two.....if it's hard to pull.

 

[dvw]

If it already has proper preload you can't add enough shim to one side to get to a good number. your going to need to swap about .010"-.015" worth of shim from the left to the right.
Doug

 

[Cranky]

If it already has proper preload you can't add enough shim to one side to get to a good number. your going to need to swap about .010"-.015" worth of shim from the left to the right.
Doug

Uh, you missed what I said....might be because part of my post was in the heading. Keeping the same preload but just moving the diff over .010" or so.....to the right to reduce backlash.

 

[dvw]

The backlash moves roughly .007" for every .010" of carrier movement. .010"-.015" carrier movement would give you .009"-.006" B/L. So I would pull .007" shim out of the left and put it in the right to start. That should get you close.
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

The backlash moves roughly .007" for every .010" of carrier movement. .010"-.015" carrier movement would give you .009"-.006" B/L. So I would pull .007" shim out of the left and put it in the right to start. That should get you close.
Doug

Is that right?

 

[Cranky]

Is that right?

Well, not going to be able to say with this one. Found the carrier bearing fits have two much of a radius and the shim that is the first to go in was deformed and so was the second shim. I built this thing nearly two years ago and the owner just now got his car running and all of a sudden it's showing problems and showed up pretty quickly. I don't let rear ends go out of here with .018 BL and it had me scratching my head. Saw a bit of deforming on the right side shims when I tore it down but the left side showed up really good. This diff is new from a well known supplier so we're going to talk with him and see what's up. If it comes down to it, I can machine the radius a bit in my lathe. And yes, I have shims with a bigger ID but even those get into the radius. Found a shim problem with the pinion preload too but that one is on me. I have another Dana 60 Diff but I have to pull a bearing off of it to see how much radius it has. I'm betting not as much as this one.....which is 7/64's measured with a Starrett radius gage.

 

[zyzzyx]

Glad you cought that!

 

[Cranky]

Glad you cought that!

Had me scratching my head AND my butt!! Supposed to be getting some new shims that have a 'larger' ID. I'm not holding my breath because the shims I have now already have a larger ID. We'll see. Here's what the shim ended up looking like and that's just one of them. Also asked about this mess where the casting didn't take. One side was fine but the other side.....no way to get a puller under the bearing race. China stuff?

 

[zyzzyx]

I took my original carrier bearings to a local automotive machine shop and had them hone the bores so that
they would slip on and off kind of easily. I then measured the space in the housing where the carrier resides
with an inside Micrometer. Then I measured the carrier bearing races side-to-side. This made it easy to do
the shimming. Once you get it right, you can assemble the timkens with the shims for good! No one is good
at taking off and putting bearings on without a hiccup!

 

[dvw]

I have a factiry GM Dana kit. The side bearing remover isvery thin to get under the bearing.
Doug

 

[Cranky]

I have a factiry GM Dana kit. The side bearing remover isvery thin to get under the bearing.
Doug

I have a 4212 SJB Proto puller. It works well when the pockets in the casting are done right. If you noticed the pics above you can see that one side is done right and the other side....fail. Not sure if even the factory kit would be able to work in this case.

 

[zyzzyx]

Take a die grinder and "Fix" it!

 

[Cranky]

Take a die grinder and "Fix" it!

I plan on it! Taking break today.....a much needed break. My back and knees are bitching.

 

[Cranky]

Take a die grinder and "Fix" it!

Actually stuck it up on the milling machine and did the deed.....

 

[zyzzyx]

Ahhhh, Precision!

 

[Cranky]

Ahhhh, Precision!

It for sure looks better than it would have with me doing it by hand lol....plus it's been awhile since the machine has been run.

 

[zyzzyx]

Chasing all the spiders out, eh?

 

[Cranky]

Chasing all the spiders out, eh?

I keep it covered when not in use and so far I haven't seen any dirt dauber nests. Lost a motor on a table saw years ago due to daubers getting into it so now stuff like that gets covered up. Spiders like to gather around the windows and usually attract the daubers. Constant battle a lot of the time.