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Dana 60 leaking fluid out the front yoke - WTF!?

440beep

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So my Dana 60 has started leaking fluid, and I think its coming from the front yoke area. Haven't crawled under there yet to find out exactly where, but will do so tomorrow. The leak started roughly two weeks ago, and its a gusher. One day I wiped up the puddle and the next day it was back. From a previous check, the fluid level was right at the filler hole and its given me no troubles.

Talked to a buddy of mine, and some initial diagnositc work he wants me to do is grab the yoke and see how much play is in it. He's wondering if the lock nut has loosened itself.

I read the FSM and it says to check the vent tube and make sure its clean or else the internal pressure will force fluid out the seals. Where is this vent tube? Is it on the diff housing or an axle tube? I was under the car a few weeks back messing with the pinion snubber and I don't remember seeing this vent tube, or at least it didn't readily jump out at me. Is it easy to miss? Is it just the vent tube or might there be a hose connected to it and venting elsewhere? How common would it be for this vent tube to get clogged up?

Anything else I should look for while troubleshooting the cause of the leak?

Thanks
Lee
 
So my Dana 60 has started leaking fluid, and I think its coming from the front yoke area. Haven't crawled under there yet to find out exactly where, but will do so tomorrow. The leak started roughly two weeks ago, and its a gusher. One day I wiped up the puddle and the next day it was back. From a previous check, the fluid level was right at the filler hole and its given me no troubles.

Talked to a buddy of mine, and some initial diagnositc work he wants me to do is grab the yoke and see how much play is in it. He's wondering if the lock nut has loosened itself.

I read the FSM and it says to check the vent tube and make sure its clean or else the internal pressure will force fluid out the seals. Where is this vent tube? Is it on the diff housing or an axle tube? I was under the car a few weeks back messing with the pinion snubber and I don't remember seeing this vent tube, or at least it didn't readily jump out at me. Is it easy to miss? Is it just the vent tube or might there be a hose connected to it and venting elsewhere? How common would it be for this vent tube to get clogged up?

Anything else I should look for while troubleshooting the cause of the leak?

Thanks
Lee

The vent is the hollow bolt with a cap on it that holds down the rear brake pipe splitter to the top of one axle tube.

If the yoke nut is loose, though not good, I can't imagine it would cause of the leak as it's spline is outside of the pinion seal. Play in the pinion bearings is a sign of insufficient bearing preload and can contribute to a leak. As can a pinion that has worn a groove at the seal area, and hence why speedi-sleeves are awesome.
 
So can the pinion bearing issue just pop up out of nowhere? The Dana has been fine for the year and half I've had the car, so I'm just curious why all of a sudden she's spewing fluid.

Speed sleeve, like this? I'm assuming the entire rear end has to come out to put this sleeve in?
chucker54_2269_33289853[1].jpg


The vent is the hollow bolt with a cap on it that holds down the rear brake pipe splitter to the top of one axle tube.

If the yoke nut is loose, though not good, I can't imagine it would cause of the leak as it's spline is outside of the pinion seal. Play in the pinion bearings is a sign of insufficient bearing preload and can contribute to a leak. As can a pinion that has worn a groove at the seal area, and hence why speedi-sleeves are awesome.
 
No! Just undo the pinion nut, pull the yoke off. A new seal would be wise nd put some rtv on the side that goes inside the housing. Check the yoke for grooves, a speedi sleeve will work if needed.
 
Is that picture I posted a "speedi sleeve?" I've got the new seal, and if that picture I posted is a speedi sleeve, it will be here tomorrow.

No! Just undo the pinion nut, pull the yoke off. A new seal would be wise nd put some rtv on the side that goes inside the housing. Check the yoke for grooves, a speedi sleeve will work if needed.
 
Yes, that is the repair sleeve. A loose yoke is the beginning of your problems and you need to find out why. Dana's use a crush sleeve for pinion preload and you need to be very careful messing with it. If you over tighten it you will destroy the sleeve and put too much preload on the bearings. Drive like that and you will be rebuilding the rear end.
 
And this is the reason I'm nervous about aking that yoke nut off and pulling the yoke off as I have no idea what I'm doing.

So will things be compromised if I remove only the yoke and install a new oil seal and possibly a speedi sleeve on the yoke and that's all I remove?

Another concern I have is where the hell do I find a 300ft/lb torque wrench and then have the muscle to tighten that yoke nut to 250ft/lb?!

Yes, that is the repair sleeve. A loose yoke is the beginning of your problems and you need to find out why. Dana's use a crush sleeve for pinion preload and you need to be very careful messing with it. If you over tighten it you will destroy the sleeve and put too much preload on the bearings. Drive like that and you will be rebuilding the rear end.
 
if you are really worried and have never done it before,take it to a profesional.over tightening the nut can cause a rear end failure very fast.shouldnt cost more then $150 to have a good shop change the seal for you.just take your parts with you.have them check the diff for what caused this as well.kinda stange to not have it leak slowly for a while and get worse vs all at once failure.
 
Right now I'm just hypothesising about the leak too. On Wednesday I threw some oil dry on the puddle that was under the diff and I checked this morning and the oil dry was dry. So unless all the fluid leaked out already, but I really need to get under there tonight and see what's going on there.

As far as a professional fixing it, would a Dodge dealership qualify? I'm assuming the Dodge mechanics have to deal with this stuff on the Ram trucks. Or am I better off finding a speciality shop that deals with this?

if you are really worried and have never done it before,take it to a profesional.over tightening the nut can cause a rear end failure very fast.shouldnt cost more then $150 to have a good shop change the seal for you.just take your parts with you.have them check the diff for what caused this as well.kinda stange to not have it leak slowly for a while and get worse vs all at once failure.
 
diff shop is much better then any dealership.most techs at dealerships are not specially trained to do dodge work,especially on our older rides.only reason to go to a dealer is for warranty work on your new ride,even then,go someplace else if you can.
 
Am I thinking about this correctly. If the car has been sitting still for a couple days, I'm assuming the diff fluid will get thicker and not leak as much as compared to if it was just driven. So when I check for the leak, guess I should jack the rear end up on jackstands and let the rear end spin for awhile to get heated up.
 
not only the temp can make a difference,the simple fact that it is spinning can also make a leak worse.some seals dont leak untill the shaft is spinning,no leak at all while sitting still.
 
Ok, so I cleaned up the breather tube and checked the fluid level. Fluid was just below the fill hole. And there was no splattered fluid by the yoke.

Going for a drive and see what happens...............................
 
Their is no crush sleeve on a dana

- - - Updated - - -

You will need a Yoke Holder, a Air gun with 250 lbs Torque minimum and A Spicer Seal. Check the Housing for cracks. If the Vent tube is clogged the axel seals would leak. Is the Lube over filled. Also the Posi Additive should be compatible with the Seal material. Also make sure the slinger is installed before the seal. If the slinger is not installed all seals will leak.
 
My seal is leaking also from the front yoke, you happen to remember what the part number was for the seal?
 
You can also get a leak between the yoke and the pinion shaft. It will weep past the splines. While the yoke is off, clean the splines of residue on both units then apply some teflon paste to both before you put the yoke back on. The only Dana I remember using a crush sleeve was a 70. 27's, 30's, 44's, 60's & 80's used shims.
 
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