Dana 60 questions

[Luck]

Hi everyone,

I'm rebuilding a dana 60 with different gears and bearings. This is my first axle I've ever rebuilt.

I have a few questions...

#1. I was told with the pinion nut tightened too 120ft/lbs i should have 20 pounds of rotational drag spinning the nut. Is this drag measured solely with the pinion in place, or am i to be spinning the carrier, ring gear and axles/bearings as well?

#2. After i took everything apart, i found 2 tophat looking parts that fit where the axles slide in, in the carrier. My father said they are to adjust your bearing tension on the axles via a spanner on one of the outer hubs. How tight do i tighten that spanner nut?

3# it's been almost a year since I've taken the axle apart and honestly i dont remember where a part went. Its a large, thin "washer" of some sort. Like a bearing shield or oil block or something. Where does this go? I circled it in a picture i will attach (if i can figure out how)

 

[Luck]

I cannot seem to upload a photo, i think my account is too new. I understand it's unlikely to get help with question #3 but it appears like the "washer" would go into the pinion shaft and fits snugly over the splines.

Thanks everyone

 

[PRND21]

I'd suggest finding a factory service manual. Should be available in book form or CD.

 

[moparnation74]

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[Cranky]

You could have picked an easier rear end to do for your first build lol. It's hard enough setting the pinion depth let alone having to deal with shims to set back lash too. I too would suggest the factory service manual but there's also a lot of info on the net on this rear. The large washer you mentioned usually goes between the yoke and front bearing. On the bearing preload, I don't remember off the top of my head what it should be but 20 ft lbs doesn't sound right to me but you check it when the pinion is in and by itself. It's also supposed to be checked without the seal in place.

 

[dvw]

Take it to someone with experience. Axle set-up is art, requires special tools and a good understanding of what you are trying to achieve. Want to learn how to set them up? Find an experienced axle guy and watch. Even then the first ones you do are going to be tough. Do you know how to correctly interpret gear patterns? Do you have a pair of slip on side bearings? Do you the correct bearing pullers and installation tools? Do you have a case spreader or know how to make due without one? If you can't answer all these questions "yes" stop now and get some help.
Doug

 

[oldkimmer]

..........on some the washer goes on between the pinion yoke and front pinion bearing........on others it goes in the case before the rear bearing cup along with the shims...........kim....

 

[Luck]

I agree I chose a big hill.

But I've been collecting things and I'm ready... I'm going to check out the manual, and seek better info. She surely looks pretty.

68 Coronet 383 a833

 

[Cranky]

I agree I chose a big hill.

But I've been collecting things and I'm ready... I'm going to check out the manual, and seek better info. She surely looks pretty.

68 Coronet 383 a833

Weeeelllll, the first rear end I dug into besides just swapping chunks in an 8 3/4 was a Dana 60. I helped a buddy swap gears and install a spool. It was the blind leading the blind and we didn't have the internet in 82 but he did buy a pinion depth checking tool and we used the destructions that came with the tool. The spool was used and the bearings were pretty much a slip fit already. Guess someone had polished the fits on the spool. Anyways, it held up to running low 11's/high 10's behind a 440 and a stick.

About a year later I was going to do the same thing with an 8 3/4 and borrowed his checking tool and well, ended up keeping it. He didn't want to sell it at first but said to go ahead and use it and about 10 years and many rear ends later, he finally accepted a hundred bucks for it. Back then no one around here was setting up rears and after someone at the track asked me who did mine, word got out and it took off.

After setting up one using the pinion tool and not liking what the pattern looked like, I plugged one into my daily driver 71 Cuda and put some miles on it. It ran quiet and after about 250 miles, I gave it to the guy who asked me to do it. Same thing with the next few so I pretty much ignored what the pattern looked like and trusted the pinion setting tool. Pretty much lost count of how many I've done but my back lets me know it's been too many lol.

If you have a decent mechanical back ground, go for it. One advantage you have now a days is the internet. I got a job as a machinist in late 78 and then got into an apprentice program in 1980 so that helped me out a lot. As far as motors go....I started out taking edger and lawn mower motors apart and then sticking the edger motors on go carts and mini bikes and it went down hill from there.

 

[Luck]

I didn't check the pattern on the gears before i disassembled it, but it definitely was way off. It was disturbing how loud and apparent the gear/bearing howl was after i put exhaust on the car, yet it had lived strong to nearly 20 years of launches in a car that could pull the front tires off the ground. I was told the (now removed) gears were installed by "just using the old shims"

I most certainly am going too aim for perfect, but i agree... There's some wiggle room to be had.

 

[oldbee]

I want wouldn't want my first to be a Dana. 8-3/4" was hard enough. Only did the one(WITH a service manual), but it lived thru 3 drag seasons. You have to remember to set to zero lash on ringside first, then use rt side shims to preload the gear lash. I don't envy you.

 

[dvw]

Go to Yukon gear and read their set up instructions. Pay attention to their pattern pictures. It's way easier to R&R the pinion shim behind the cup than press the pinion bearing on and off. A pair of slide on bearings to determain back lash makes the job way easier. No preload on anything until you establish the correct pattern, waste of time. Then set pinion preload. Go on to the side bearings. Add .005" worth of shim to each side shim pack used to obtain the proper backlash. This will establish side bearing preload. Recheck pattern final time.
Doug