Dash Lights

[Mariposa Mike]

On this new to me 66 Charger I finished all the tune up work, cooling system work, fuel pump replacement, etc. and tire/wheel replacement but last night I went out to be wowed by the dash lights and find they don't work either. I have a lot of paper work the PO gathered and find that he sent the gauges to a shop in WA for repair. But now they don't light up nor are the interior lights working. I'm pretty sure they were when I picked up the car a couple weeks ago but in the daylight I did not check the dash lights. The PO has passed and I don't have any way of contacting him in the great beyond. One picture I have from the seller ( a relative) shows a couple fuses laying on the center console. Might be a clue the PO was working on this problem.

I did not previously know about the electro gauges in these cars and I'm not sure where to start beyond fuses. If anyone has a suggestion I would appreciate knowing more. Manuals that came along with car and notes I found with schematics may help me but I might also be outside my expertise if these panels are not user friendly. I know about the early 60's electro gauges and heard they can be difficult. Advice appreciated. I would like to be able to drive this car in darkness without holding a flashlight to see the gauges.

OOOps. forgot to click on the email button below

 

[Don Frelier]

They have a "Power Pack" which powers the electroluminescent strips in the all the dash lighting.
It's fed by a tan wire from the light switch then to the left most fuse on the block and then powers the pack as an orange wire.
The power pack itself is mounted below the dash under the glovebox area.

The courtesy lights are on a separate fuse.

You can get a 67 service manual here:
Service Manuals – MyMopar

 

[Jerry Hall]

@Skatpak can help you.

 

[twecomm]

To expand on previous comments.... First you should check the fuses. The voltage for "instruments" are sourced from a terminal "H" on the headlamp switch. That tan wire goes to one side of the fuse for "instruments". The other side of that fuse feeds an orange wire that goes to the 2 terminal connector on the power pack. Keep in mind that the rotary dimmer rheostat on the headlight switch is in play, so be sure to check it's fully to the bright position. Check for volts at fuse block to see if voltage is good. at that point on the instruments fuse.
With power pack disconnected use a multimeter set to DC volts to check the orange wire in the wiring harness at power pack connector to chassis ground to verify the power pack is getting voltage. Turn on headlight switch to either parking lights or headlights position, you should see 12 volts IF rheostat is in the full bright position or less if it's not. The voltage should change if rotating the dimmer thru it's range.
Keep in mind that the metal chassis of the power pack requires it be connected to a good ground to function ! With power pack CONNECTED and chassis grounded, if power pack is working, you should be able hear a high frequency singing sound coming from the power pack. The white wire, which is the high voltage AC from the power pack is about 260 volts AC, so be careful !!! The white wire sources the all gauges, radio dial and pointer if so equipped, console clock if so equipped and shifter indicator if automatic transmission. You can use a multimeter set to AC volts to measure power pack output (white wire) to ground. If you are not seeing the hi voltage AC output from power pack it may be shutting down due to a short somewhere on that path of the white wire unto an EL device.
ANY shorts to ground on the white wire, which daisy chains everything electroluminescent in the car, will cause the power pack to shut down. Further testing would require disconnecting the white wire AT the power pack and re-test to check if power pack works with no load connected. If it does, and you can measure the 260 volts AC, you have a short in one of the EL devices. Hope this is helpful..

 

[RedBeard]

Todd's Restorations – 66-67 Charger restoration

 

[Mariposa Mike]

All excellent info to get me started tracking down the issue. An extra complete gauge set with a label saying it's good came with the car but the odometer is way different of course. Hopefully I won't eventually need it. There are also extra electrical relays in a bag. Three of them. Also an extra headlight switch. Which again makes me think the PO was either working on this issue or planning to. I will get on this asap and report findings unless I unfortunately meet Mr. 260 volts in a bad way. I have a multimeter so should be able to measure voltage. Thank you all so very much for the help.

 

[twecomm]

It's good you got some extra parts with the car. The relays you mention are likely for the control of the headlight motors. Do your headlights open and close
properly ? On Mr. 260 volts, just be careful with it, it's a high frequency AC voltage. Not a medical expert, but don't think it would be lethal if you came across it, but it will bite you !! If you have a working power pack, see if you can hook it up temporarily on the bench. Much easier to check out the EL on your spare gauge cluster while on the bench rather than in the car. If you do have gauge issues, Todd's Restorations is the best choice for repairs.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

The headlights open and close but one is a little lazy/slower than the other. A dim red light on the dash lights up when activated. I was thinking maybe it needs a little oil? Hard to see anything behind the grill related to those.

 

[RedBeard]

The headlights open and close but one is a little lazy/slower than the other. A dim red light on the dash lights up when activated. I was thinking maybe it needs a little oil? Hard to see anything behind the grill related to those.

Could be just that motor. Todd works on them too.

 

[Encswsm]

The headlights open and close but one is a little lazy/slower than the other. A dim red light on the dash lights up when activated. I was thinking maybe it needs a little oil? Hard to see anything behind the grill related to those.

Topher McGinnis is the headlight man at http://headlightmotorman.com/. I had him rebuild my motors and they came back looking like brand new Top notch work. Anyways He has new bushings for the headlight buckets also new Bosch versions of the limit switches if you need them. Do not put oil on the bushings they are simple nylon and lube would only attract dirt and wear them out.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

Thanks for the tip on non oiling. Eventually I will get to these but right now it's the gauges first. I'm glad to see some folks out there are able to service these if needed.

 

[Encswsm]

here's all sorts of people on here that have been there done that with just about everything on these cars. Not always the cheapest sled to fix but Im sure youll be the only kid on the block with one.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

here's all sorts of people on here that have been there done that with just about everything on these cars. Not always the cheapest sled to fix but Im sure youll be the only kid on the block with one.

Maybe in the county. Or in the nearby counties. I believe there will be a lot of people interested in seeing this car. Given its age most won't have been born yet.

 

[twecomm]

And of course you will report back to let us know the results of your gauge issue..

 

[Mariposa Mike]

Yes sir. Getting on it tomorrow. Have some pictures of the new tires/wheels and cleanup in the engine bay. Replaced a few non stock items and more coming in the mail. Been busy on it and getting it registered. Went to DMV for the third time today due to it being an estate sale. What a pain. Now I have to get a VIN verification before it's all final.

 

[twecomm]

Hey, congrats.. Looks like it's in great condition and un-molested, and power windows to boot..
I see you have A/C, in my previous post forgot to mention the buttons for heater / A/C are EL illuminated also.

 

[Don Frelier]

Very nice, unsilenced air cleaner and converted to a dual reservoir master cylinder.
Beautiful condition.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

Tried the A/C yesterday and blows hot air. Pretty much what I suspected. At this point I don't know if the freon was converted or just left alone. I have a few cans of the R12 I stashed years ago but I will make sure there are no leaks/conversions and have a pro test this system. Don't want to waste what I have on the shelf if there is a leak somewhere. That's been the ongoing problem on this car. I don't know what the PO did and I cannot ask. A local mechanic says he has the gauges to use for the R12 so I will take it to him. He also mentioned hiring an armed guard to transport the R12 to the shop.

 

[twecomm]

Does the magnetic clutch on the compressor pull and spin the compressor when you switch on the A/C ? Have you checked the fuse for same ?
If you can even find R-12 its ridiculously pricey. About 6 years ago, our whole house A/C stopped working, it used R-12. Repair company came out and used a "sealer cartridge" in series with the re-charge line, that sealer was about $ 150.00. They had "recovered", not new R-12 that was used to re-charge my house system. Can't remember price per ounce on the R-12 but it was ridiculous expensive. That process did keep the system running for another two years till we had new compressor and A coil replaced with modern hi-efficency Trade brand gear.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

No I have not checked the fuses or if the compressor engaged. I did not hear the click I expected but it was just me in the garage. Will have to get the wife to do this while I have my head under the hood. Could look at it to see if it's spinning but I'm a little concerned if it's out of freon I might damage something running back and forth to the switch. I had to set the car aside for today and tomorrow to catch up with honey-dos. Been working on it for two weeks and nothing else. Have to take my truck in for a transfer case oil change in the AM. I have a lift but it's center post and I cannot access the case without creating a huge mess. And hotter than sand at the gates of hell in the afternoon. Hard to get motivated to work on the car when I can come inside and type on the computer to ask questions. I'm getting great advice here so looking forward to trouble shooting these issues.