Dash repainting

[Max lobato]

Hi everyone looking for some help.
I recently got the ball rolling on my 68 coronet. Since the painter has my car i decided to get started on my dash. Its going from green to black ( exterior paint will be octane red) the frame of my dash has.some surace rust and the slightest pitting. Can someone please give me the proper steps to get this dash prepped for paint. Oooor do people usually go with powder coating?
Thanks
Max

 

[NOSTRT980]

I went the way of powder coating. turned out real nice

 

[Max lobato]

I went the way of powder coating. turned out real nice

How much does that run in your area?

 

[NOSTRT980]

have to check. can't find invoice

 

[493 Mike]

Just proceed as though it was the outer body for prep. I would recommend a rough/flat/semi-gloss finish for the top.
Mike

 

[moparnation74]

If not going with originality then I would Powdercoat it......

 

[texas69bee]

Just proceed as though it was the outer body for prep. I would recommend a rough/flat/semi-gloss finish for the top.
Mike

http://www.instrument-specialties.com/products/

 

[gkent]

If you have to fill the pitting then powder coating is not an option - the powder will not stick to filler.

When I did mine (black) I had it dipped and it got all the rust. I epoxy primed and filled it and then painted it with textured paint. But I ended up sanding it down and redoing it 3 times before I was satisfied - I couldn't get an even texture. Also, the texture will be too coarse by the time you've shot on a couple of coats so the trick is to first shoot it with flat or semi gloss black and then a quick texture coat.

The Rustoleum textured black available from Walmart is a perfect match to factory.

Factory on top - new paint on bottom

factory on left - new on right

the pitting I had to deal with

 

[jamie]

Carefully sand blast it,epoxy prime and paint it.You don't have to be fancy in too many places, just get it covered.Then focus on the ends by the AC ducts,across the bottom and of course the top. Not much else shows on these.
You can have it (or do it yourself) powdercoated but there are a ton of nooks and crannys to try to get powder sucked into. I am not saying it can't be done but you would need a couple sets of eyes and good lighting to make sure it was covered.

 

[jamie]

Carefully sandblasting means dusting across the speaker grill and top,don't spend a lot of time up there.
If there is corrosion along where it bolts up,you can do that a little better because there is a bend line along there.DA or hand sand the top if needed.

Just don't spend much time on the top or you could warp it although most of these mopar dashes are thicker than GM or Fords.
Just thought I should add that.

 

[gkent]

Blasting doesn't do squat for rust pits, the grain isn't fine enough. Soda doesn't touch rust.

Yours doesn't look too bad. I'd hand sand it, ese metalprep or similar to get rid of the rust, prime and fill the areas then prime and paint the whole dash. These were never primed from the factory - the color was applied to bare metal. I'd give it a light sanding - the original paint will provide a good base.

 

[jamie]

Blasting doesn't do squat for rust pits, the grain isn't fine enough."

?? In 38 years I have never had a problem cleaning out rust with a blaster.Maybe I use a different media than you do. I agree dipping is nice but not available everywhere. Also in my opinion,dipping will clean out everything,even the places that were coated that you can no longer reach with a gun to recoat. Now it's bare metal.

I also would recommend not using anything out of a rattle can on your dash.There is no UV protection in any of it that I know of and will fade and chaulk down the road.


.

 

[The Ramcharger]

I just got my dash back from the Painter "SC", 1965 Dodge Coronet 500, $450 for two tone dash including Ash Tray, panels at the base of the windshield, Glove Box, Hinges. They even got rid of lite surface rust on back side and sealed it after primering it.

I purchased the paint for the painter, 1 Pint PPG Acrylic Lacquer DK Blue Poly suede( no glare) - No hardener (top half) and 1 Quart PPG Acrylic Enamel Burmuda Turquoise - Hardener required.

I originally got a couple of cans, each color, of airisol spray paint. Glad I reconsidered as I have never painted, other than by #s or around the house, any cars. The spray cans of PPG Acrylic Enamel Burmuda Turquoise I bought had no hardener in it, big mustake. I am using the DK Blue on the floor.

The supplier is in Ohio and can get many of the colors and in the same form, ie
Acrylic Enamel. Think

Like I said I am not a painter but I have stipped hundreds of cars, trucks, cycles etc when we owned Imperial
Stripaway, Media Blasting in So. Holland, Il.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

[gkent]

Textured dashes were lacquer - that's why its so tough to find and so expensive from those who have it.

 

[The Ramcharger]

You are correct about high price.

I found my Receipt for the paint.

The Pint of PPG Acrylic Lacquer suede List $149.82 net was $104.82
The Quart of PPG Acrylic Enamel Burmuda Turquoise List $71.20 net was $49.79
Hardener TRE Wet Look $23.23 net $16.30

Shipping $24.60

Jim