ZR9B
Well-Known Member
nice ride
Day 1 owner of a 67 gtx with a few questions
- Thread starter T.bone
- Start date
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Welcome to FBBO!! Beautiful diamond in the rough!
Love 67 Gitticks!
I have some 67 X parts that I would let go for next to nothing. Just cover shipping with a little meat on the bone is all. I have a pair of tailights with bezels(one bezel is broke) but the lenses and housing are nice.
PM me if intrested
Love 67 Gitticks!
I have some 67 X parts that I would let go for next to nothing. Just cover shipping with a little meat on the bone is all. I have a pair of tailights with bezels(one bezel is broke) but the lenses and housing are nice.
PM me if intrested
T.bone
Active Member
Next question, I am thinking about replacing the 8 3/4 with a dana 60, now I am not sure but curious as to how do I keep from ruining the value of the "original " car while updating rear or adding disk brakes and modern suspension parts? Do I have to keep original to maintain value or not? Fyi I have the ability to store original parts while I resto-mod certain parts
TxDon
Well-Known Member
You have to decide if you are doing a 100% stock type restoration or a restomod. IMO if you had a fully documented super rare car like a Hemi or a convertible worrying about original parts and value makes sense but with a regular 440 GTX not so much. It sounds like you want to end up with a cruiser with OEM looks but some driveability upgrades and it seems like a lot of owners are going the restomod route. If you can store all the original parts I say go ahead and make it whatever you want it to be.
T.bone
Active Member
You are correct in that I do not have a hemi or full documentation, I like the original look and I am not looking to drag race her, but like to get in and go 100 miles if it's at 100 mph than all the better!
6_7_G_T_X
Well-Known Member
nice GTX welcome to the club bro
I started my restore 2 months ago,,,best of luck
I started my restore 2 months ago,,,best of luck
T.bone
Active Member
More info please! So I am doing the engine rebuild, replacing transmission with new b&m 727, is it worth upgrading the 8 3/4 with a dana 60? I have drum brakes and will upgrade to power disc brakes. Just not sure if it is really an upgrade. Is the dana THAT much better? Once again, I am not drag racing her, but fyi the engine is being built to better than original specs. We are anticipating better than 400 hp with the engine upgrades, carb and manifold. I am not sure of the gear set now but safe bet would assume it's 3.23.
dave dodge
Well-Known Member
Very nice car T Bone, I own a 67 r/t 4 speed car. My opinion is the stock 8 3/4 rear is plenty strong enough for your application. Save your money and spend it elsewhere.
FlagCraig
Well-Known Member
Welcome. Also a 67 GTX owner. Love the body style. I bought the car with Fender Tag and CertiCard attached.
In my valuation the broadcast sheet did not weigh but would have been a bonus. The Fender Tag and Card were good enough for me.
Good luck with restoration. I did one on 72 Challenger. It takes patience and of course lots of cash.
In my valuation the broadcast sheet did not weigh but would have been a bonus. The Fender Tag and Card were good enough for me.
Good luck with restoration. I did one on 72 Challenger. It takes patience and of course lots of cash.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Biggest deal about removing a full coverage vinyl top is what you may find underneath. The vinyl trapped water underneath and could cause major rust problems. The trim is sometimes different on some cars, not sure about the GTX.
RT K_line
Well-Known Member
Welcome, Nice GTX you found yourself. It looks like in good shape to start with, the worst of it looks like a tail lite and chrome damaged. You should be able to find those here, these guys are very helpful.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
My 68 charger has no match numbers on it's motor because the motor/block was cast then built in late 67. I found out that some of the factory motor assemblers stamped the match number on the top edge of the bell house flange before 1/1/68...
Also the cast date on the block should be a few months before the car was assembled. So if that is so, what are the chances that a motor like that would not be the original.
IMO, a pre 68 with a motor cast date just before the car build date is as good and should be a valued as matching numbers..
Also the cast date on the block should be a few months before the car was assembled. So if that is so, what are the chances that a motor like that would not be the original.
IMO, a pre 68 with a motor cast date just before the car build date is as good and should be a valued as matching numbers..
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MOPOWER871
Well-Known Member
T-bone,nice X, Did you look for the broadcast sheet under the back seat.mines alpine white also WW1
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