with drum drum do I need a proportion valve still or only with powerThe only reason I used non mopar I because it was power brake car I switch it to manual and lost the original brackets so it was easier to go with the corvette style
with drum drum do I need a proportion valve still or only with powerThe only reason I used non mopar I because it was power brake car I switch it to manual and lost the original brackets so it was easier to go with the corvette style
check out thr ram man videos he may have a answerwith drum drum do I need a proportion valve still or only with power
For the stock 73-74 A and E-body disc swap, caliper brackets and calipers should be forward. Note the loop of hose in cruizer88's photo that could be pinched or rub on a tire when turning wheels lock-to-lock. The hard line end of the brake hose is supposed to pass through the upper and lower control arm more or less under the upper ball joint. The frame bracket end of the hose should come up from the bottom and the steel brake line from the distribution block under the master cylinder connects on the top side of the frame bracket. Yes there's interference to overcome when running a sway bar.I just converted my 64 Polara to discs and all went according to plan. View attachment 632609
They fit the weld wheels,but when I bought a set of Champion wheels they did hit the rim.Bought a pair of billet spacers and all is good.I purchased a SSBC kit like Al. Worked great, but did not clear my 4" wide Cragars, nor the ET Wheels I planned to run. The caliper rubbed the inner rim. I put a set of "Pirate Jack" brakes on FRUSTRATION. They fit great and cost around $500 without the master cylinder. They did clear the narrow wheels. Decided to purchase a second kit from Pirate Jack (ebay has them). They work great. If anyone is interested, I'll sell my SSBC kit for $250. I'm in PA. Send a PM.
hello need to know anyone who has done a conversion on the 62-65 what master they used and where they got the steel lines pics would be apreciated
I also looked and wasn't in the catalogeandyf, Could you help me out with the part # for the above brake lines ? I looked up inline tube and didn't find those under 63 Plymouth Belvedere. I'm sure I'm looking in the wrong place.Thanks !
andyf, Could you help me out with the part # for the above brake lines ? I looked up inline tube and didn't find those under 63 Plymouth Belvedere. I'm sure I'm looking in the wrong place.Thanks !
Centerline, did you extend your rear line up to the valve, or run a whole new one. What kind of block did you use to split the fronts?You will need to make up the hard lines. There are a couple ways to go. You can source a stock style proportioning valve, or you can purchase an aftermarket adjustable unit. I used a Summit adjustable unit and mounted it beside the master cylinder just to make it easy to reach. Cost is under $50. The stock style will cost more. Your choice. Its been my experience that they both work pretty well. The adjustable unit goes in the rear brake line BTW.
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Just went to my local parts store and picked up the brass "T" for the hard lines. Used stock mid 70's "A" body front disk brake soft lines. Worked perfectly.Centerline, did you extend your rear line up to the valve, or run a whole new one. What kind of block did you use to split the fronts?
Centerline your box is fullI used all Mopar parts. Spindles and caliper mounts from a 76 Dart. Master cylinder and calipers from a '75 Dart and rotors from a 77 Monaco. Everything just bolts together. Lines were from a '75 dart as well. Just needed a little adjusting to clear and work perfectly.
Calipers were moved to the rear of the spindle to clear the factory sway bar. Without a sway bar they are be mounted to the front which should make the lines just bolt right up.
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