That’s the longer story, lol. The kit I picked, despite being pricy, had some crap parts notably the eye bolt for the pedal link pin. Looked like one of my freshman year metals class projects; though with cheaper metal. Friend machined a new one for me with a pad for the brake light switch. Then came trial & error adjustments for the length of the pedal rod having to cut down part of that linkage in the kit with a coupler. See, I was picky on the height of the brake pedal and it was a hoot getting it there.not following you when you say you ended up converting the brakes to retain the top position
There’s a bit of free-play necessary around an 8th inch or so, for the pedal in the home position, don’t want the return ‘stop’ being the brake light switch. I recall this being one of the reasons brakes had sink down as it may have been pre-charging the booster. Along this bumpy path is ensuring the correct gap btw the booster rod and MC. Among the hassles was getting the pedal rod to travel deep enough into the MC.
With all the futzing, determined I could align the booster/MC in either pedal hole. Just a little shimming to angle the works to the lower pedal arm hole, recall GM PB setups being angled? My kit used GM MC and booster. But, on further looking, the pedal rod angle was more of a direct push thru the firewall into the booster at the top hole so finished it that way. Lol, there’s more; but hope you’re not regretting my longer story.