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Disc brake conversion

not following you when you say you ended up converting the brakes to retain the top position
That’s the longer story, lol. The kit I picked, despite being pricy, had some crap parts notably the eye bolt for the pedal link pin. Looked like one of my freshman year metals class projects; though with cheaper metal. Friend machined a new one for me with a pad for the brake light switch. Then came trial & error adjustments for the length of the pedal rod having to cut down part of that linkage in the kit with a coupler. See, I was picky on the height of the brake pedal and it was a hoot getting it there.

There’s a bit of free-play necessary around an 8th inch or so, for the pedal in the home position, don’t want the return ‘stop’ being the brake light switch. I recall this being one of the reasons brakes had sink down as it may have been pre-charging the booster. Along this bumpy path is ensuring the correct gap btw the booster rod and MC. Among the hassles was getting the pedal rod to travel deep enough into the MC.

With all the futzing, determined I could align the booster/MC in either pedal hole. Just a little shimming to angle the works to the lower pedal arm hole, recall GM PB setups being angled? My kit used GM MC and booster. But, on further looking, the pedal rod angle was more of a direct push thru the firewall into the booster at the top hole so finished it that way. Lol, there’s more; but hope you’re not regretting my longer story.
 
That’s the longer story, lol. The kit I picked, despite being pricy, had some crap parts notably the eye bolt for the pedal link pin. Looked like one of my freshman year metals class projects; though with cheaper metal. Friend machined a new one for me with a pad for the brake light switch. Then came trial & error adjustments for the length of the pedal rod having to cut down part of that linkage in the kit with a coupler. See, I was picky on the height of the brake pedal and it was a hoot getting it there.

There’s a bit of free-play necessary around an 8th inch or so, for the pedal in the home position, don’t want the return ‘stop’ being the brake light switch. I recall this being one of the reasons brakes had sink down as it may have been pre-charging the booster. Along this bumpy path is ensuring the correct gap btw the booster rod and MC. Among the hassles was getting the pedal rod to travel deep enough into the MC.

With all the futzing, determined I could align the booster/MC in either pedal hole. Just a little shimming to angle the works to the lower pedal arm hole, recall GM PB setups being angled? My kit used GM MC and booster. But, on further looking, the pedal rod angle was more of a direct push thru the firewall into the booster at the top hole so finished it that way. Lol, there’s more; but hope you’re not regretting my longer story.
I don't regret asking at all!!! I'm now considering maybe just to go with a dual master cylinder, my current one is a single, and do just discs.

Thanks
 
Had the same thoughts as some members doing conversions stayed with manual brakes happy with this and I had no problem for the years pushing the pedal when mine were not power. Certainly, would have simplified things, but was deep enough into the swap already, I kept going.

You may know that – MC’s bore sizes are different for manual and power brake setups.
 
Thanks for reminding me on the MC. I was aware of that but hadn't thought about it lately. Well, I'm now even more confused, which isn't hard to do but..... I've been swapping E-mails with Cass, from DR. Diff and he says there's no power brake booster that he's aware of that will bolt to my firewall without sticking through the hood!!!! He has one for a Hemi but that a person he sold one to had to redrill the firewall. I've found a power booster MC on Facebook Marketplace that says it'll work. I've reached out to that guy. Just picked up rear brake shoes, after having to buy a heavy duty puller to pull the drums , and they were wrong!!!!Maybe I need to stick to Chebbies. LOL !!!
 
Here's a view of my the booster/MC. It's an 8-in booster and sits 3-in below (top of booster measurement) the top of the FW.

20170418_103344.jpg
 
Forgot you have a ’64, mine is a ’63 – there were significant changes made in the cowl area btw these years. If I recollect, not sure, the single diaphragm stock boosters of the era though were a larger diameter. Maybe a fellow member with a 64-65 will post what they have..
 
Nice car!!! I can't, or don't want to believe, that there is no aftermarket booster that fits. Yours's did...
 
Here's a view of my the booster/MC. It's an 8-in booster and sits 3-in below (top of booster measurement) the top of the FW.

View attachment 1477110
The installation looks like a GM style master cylinder. Not lsure of the booster but its not Mopar. Might be a Midland-Ross (circumferential clamp band) or possible be Dr Diff kit......
BOB RENTON
 
The installation looks like a GM style master cylinder. Not lsure of the booster but its not Mopar. Might be a Midland-Ross (circumferential clamp band) or possible be Dr Diff kit......
BOB RENTON
Correct, it's a GM deal, mid-60's vette MC. I know because the one in the kit, after repeated bench bleeding, wouldn't stop the bubbles in one reservoir. I hunted for an exact replacement finding the MC, despite the MC being for front & rear disk setup - only have front disks.
 
Well guys I've pulled the pin and went with Pirate Jack on a new Power Booster/Master Cylinder for Drum/Drum. The guy, Eric, I spoke with seemed very knowledgeable and helpful. He said that should I decide to switch to discs in the future all I would have to do is remove the residual valve in the front lines and I'd be good to go. He did get in contact with a rep from MBM and said their full conversion kit would work on my car but that I'd have to tell them what lower ball joints I have. And Ron, it does have the Z bar configuration you've talked about so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. LOL!! Again, Thanks to everyone for your input.
 
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