disc brakes for a 68 b body

[68gtx]

i need some wheel bearing dust caps , where are you guys gettin yours. i found doorman 13996 on ebay but really pricey, can find anyone that has them in canada

 

[moparmarks]

i did an a-body swap on my 65 coronet. didn't help stopping much. i have a 69 coronet with power 11' drums that works better.

Those disc should stop alot better than drums. Maybe a different master cylinder.

 

[HT413]

Hey all, first, thank you for all the input on disc brake conversions, your input has been invaluable.

one question - i'm putting the final touches on my scarebird front disc install on my 69 belvedere and would like your input on which MC bore size would be best for my application. I'm going with a manual set up w discs up front and stock drums out back.


I've read all the links on bigblockdart.com, moparts and mopar action and they never come out and say which size. Bigblockdart says use New Master Cylinder, Disc & drum, use 73-76 A-Body, with or w/o power brakes, but Rock Auto has several bore sizes (15/16", 1", 1-1/8") for these applications and I just want to be sure - dont want to do it twice, ya know?


thank you in advance


-dan

 

[cngordon]

I had my front brakes in my 69 Sport Sat converted from manual drum to power disk a couple years ago and the change in stopping power is dramatic. It's no longer an adventure every time the car in front of you steps on his brakes.

The entire conversion kit, including the brake booster and master cylinder cost about $1,000.

Now that I've experienced the difference , it's the first change I would make to an old car.

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Power Brake conversion kit

 

[JBSIXPACK]

Swapping the spindles left to right, won't that put the ball joints in a bind?

 

[Black68Charger]

I took the spindles and 11.75 in brakes off a 78 cordoba. Paid 25 bucks for them at a pick and pull. They are the slider type mounted in front of rotor. I used the brake hoses from a 1980 St. Regis. They went on like they belonged there.

 

[kb67mopar]

Swapping the spindles left to right, won't that put the ball joints in a bind?

Apparently not. My car had it done before I got it but they were switched since my calipers are on the rear. I never drove it much but I can say with the manual drum master cylinder I was better off tryin to hit a bush then the brakes..... (change the master and booster too!)

Now I am going to a 98 Grand Cherokee booster and master, A body slider front brakes and 98 grand cherokee rear disks...but will be summer before I can report on performance

 

[Canadian1968CoronetR/T]

My 68 coronet r/t had the front brakes swapped out before I bought it, I cannot get enough vaccumn to help my brake booster, unless I put car in netural and keep revs up when coming to stop sign, ok on highway. I would not let my wife drive it like this. One fellow told me if I changed to a 4 speed I would not have this problem, I don't know?

 

[kb67mopar]

My 68 coronet r/t had the front brakes swapped out before I bought it, I cannot get enough vaccumn to help my brake booster, unless I put car in netural and keep revs up when coming to stop sign, ok on highway. I would not let my wife drive it like this. One fellow told me if I changed to a 4 speed I would not have this problem, I don't know?

I take it you have a lopey cam in it? If its a stock engine then you should be able to tune for good vacuum. One of my buddies is running a hyroboost setup from a GM astrovan which would cure that problem. Also have you checked your booster to make sure it doesn't leak? After a long time they will go bad and then it won't work. Check your vacuum with a gauge and you can put a check valve in the booster line to see if it loses vacuum, it should hold vacuum in the booster even after the engine is off.

 

[Udderchaos]

I'm needing a M/C and Brake booster for my Belvedere. Will the 98 Grand Cherokee some what bolt in.? The cam I'm running is pretty healthy. Am I going to run out of vacuum while braking.?

 

[kb67mopar]

I'm needing a M/C and Brake booster for my Belvedere. Will the 98 Grand Cherokee some what bolt in.? The cam I'm running is pretty healthy. Am I going to run out of vacuum while braking.?

Its not bolt in, you have to modify the firewall plate, drill more holes and modify the pedal to accept the new location for the rod. So its not like a kit or anything like that. I can't answer whether or not you will run out of vacuum.

 

[kb67mopar]

Its not bolt in, you have to modify the firewall plate, drill more holes and modify the pedal to accept the new location for the rod. So its not like a kit or anything like that. I can't answer whether or not you will run out of vacuum.

I wanted to follow up on this now that I have driven my car a bit and tested the brakes.

Setup:
Front: 74 A body slider brakes
Rear : 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee Disk brakes
Master/Booster: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I have to say, this thing stops great. It will put you in the windshield if you aren't careful. The first time I stopped I made some stuff move about in the car not expecting them to work that well.

The booster/Master wasn't a big deal to make work so I'd recommend this to anybody not wanting to spend 1k on a kit.

 

[khryslerkid]

Good thread! I'm filing this one...

 

[Budnicks]

I went with SSBC because of the 4 piston calipers.The kit was very complete and I also stayed with manual non power.

I did the original drum spindle with SSBC Disc brake conversion, on my last 68 RR, that had manual 11"x3" drums, 4 piston "Force 10" I believe they were, complete kit, worked great... my current 68 RR will have the same brakes too, when I finally get around to it...

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Dr.Diff also sells some decent kits from what I've heard, a little more money for either SSBC or Dr.Diff kits, but complete & all new parts, no searching wrecking yards or fitment issues either...

 

[themechanic]

I did the original drum spindle with SSBC Disc brake conversion, on my last 68 RR, that had manual 11"x3" drums, 4 piston "Force 10" I believe they were, complete kit, worked great... my current 68 RR will have the same brakes too, when I finally get around to it...

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Dr.Diff also sells some decent kits from what I've heard, a little more money for either SSBC or Dr.Diff kits, but complete & all new parts, no searching wrecking yards or fitment issues either...

For my 1969 Coronet R/T I bought 11.75" front and 11" rear disc swap kit from DoctorDiff for that very reason; all new parts and true bolt on. Got SS lines and zinc plated rotors. Very nice kit. Plus, Cass is one of the best vendors you'll find.

FRONT with sway bar/ rear mount caliper



REAR

 

[b-star69]

:headbang::yourock::headbang:

 

[kb67mopar]

These are my setup.

 

[HT413]

I went with Scarebird and love em. I ended up going w a 15/16 manual MC and she stops pretty well. I know some aren't interested in putting 90's ram calipers and 70 ford rotors on their b body but its cheap, everything is available at napa (except the bearing spacer and caliper bracket that scarebird makes). Prob $450 all in but I got an even better deal as a member here had it laying around. Maybe cost me $300, can't exactly remember. Honestly, I think the kit would have a better rep if not for the name. Worst name for brakes on a roadrunner I could think of? Scarebird lol.

 

[ultramag870]

I used the sb set up from summit to go from manual drums to manual disc.. haveing trouble now with back brakes(drums) only working thinking I need to put a new prop valve in...yal got any thoughts???

 

[kb67mopar]

All I can tell you is the way my car was setup when I got it was just scary bad. Was the stock 67 manual drum master prop block and rear drums with a body front disk...almost as bad as no brakes. Now with these rear disk and power master they work as well as a late model...would do this to any car as my first mod....I'd redo the master with a booster and summit racing rear prop valve.