disk brake conversion questions

[scotts74birds]

Discs require more fluid volume than drums. Hence the different sized resevoirs

 

[Tommy J]

You might also consider putting an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brakes. If you are not afraid of a little custom plumbing, this is an excellent way to maintain an about perfect balance of when the front and wheel tires lock up. If you change weight bias, rims, or tires, you can still readjust.

It works very well.

 

[MprDoc]

I have the SSBC full power kit that I just got done installing. Let me tell you that thing is bitch to install. Everything goes fine till it gets down to installing the master where you have to cut the push rod assembly to fit (not in the instructions but its necessary), the plumbing for the master cylinder is incorrect in the instructions AND it leaves you with a hole in the firewall that they tell you after the fact requires you to fabricate a plate OR find a plate from a power car. The junkyard option wasn't viable for me because I live in Hawaii where there are no junkyards

 

[zrxkawboy]

Looks like Jeg's has an affordable disc kit, but requires 15" wheels.

As far as MCs, any MC from a disc brake rear-drive Mopar will work. As others have said, tailor the bore size to your desired pedal effort. There are even adapters to mount the 2-bolt MCs (think late-70s to early 80s pickup) to our older Mopars.

 

[pullrock]

Not sure if you have done your brake upgrade yet but this is what i did and I followed this article for a blue print.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/pages/b-ebody.html

Eric
68 Charger R/T

 

[Ron H]

I have a question about my recently converted disk brake install on my 63 Fury. The conversion included adding power brakes. The pedal was way high with about a 1/4 inch of dead pedal travel, so did work to bring it down and fabricated a bracket to accommodate the brake light switch. I can't get rid of the slight dead pedal although that improved and the pedal resistance is very weak; a real nothing feel pressing on the pedal but brakes work fine. Has anyone run into this problem? Thanks, Ron H.

 

[furyus]

I did the 73-76 A body swap. Used a MC for the same application. The MC bore was 15/16. Worked great. According to Rick Erinberg at Mopar Action, there's no issues using the F, J, M body spindles on bodies. I later went to the late 70s B Body setup to get the 11 3/4 rotor. Also swapped calipers for 76 F body. Thry hsve a larger piston. Had no pedal. Changed MC to 1 11/32. Stops fine. Point is, it's all gotta match