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Distributor removal

Unkle Krusty

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Gabriola BC
I am in the process of removing the 318 from my 77 camper van. It is a tight fit. The distributor needs to be removed.
Haynes manual says to set the timing to number one. Is there some kind of locking device that stops the distributor from coming out in other positions. It does not won’t to come out at the moment, and the rain has prevented me from pursuing. So here I am inside again.
 
Set the distributor to Number 1 cylinder (by checking the distributor rotor & cap) by rotating the engine.

Remove distributor.

Do NOT rotate engine once distributor is out.

Simply install new or replacement distributor in a similar position - and making sure the rotor aligns to the Number 1 cylinder lead on the cap.

You should not notice a difference - maybe a degree or three out.
 
To answer your original question, no it will come out in any position. If reinstalling right away do as kiwi suggests.
 
You can take the distributor out in any position. You just need to find TDC to properly put it back in.
 
I am in the process of removing the 318 from my 77 camper van. It is a tight fit. The distributor needs to be removed.
Haynes manual says to set the timing to number one. Is there some kind of locking device that stops the distributor from coming out in other positions. It does not won’t to come out at the moment, and the rain has prevented me from pursuing. So here I am inside again.
1. Sorry to ask, but have you removed the "dog house"? In a van with a 318, you should be able to work on the distributor with easy access to it from inside the van.
2. The distributor will come out in any position, but you DON'T WANT THAT. Basically, you need to remove and re-install the distributor in exactly the same position as it is now. If you just pull it out "whenever", it can be fixed, but the job is WAY WAY more complicated. Pulling the distributor when the engine is at "top dead center" for cylinder #1 makes sure you can put it back in exactly the same position easily.
3. The "top dead center" mark (timing marks) on harmonic balancer (behind big lower pulley) turns around and passes the correct position TWICE (2 engine revolutions) and only one of those times the timing marks lines up is correct for cylinder #1 to be at top dead center.

Procedure:
a. determine which spark plug wire is cylinder #1 (front cylinder, driver's side)
b. rotate engine using a 1-1/4" socket, breaker bar and roughly 4" extension until the timing marks line up
c. open distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the distributor cap terminal for cylinder #1. If yes, continue. If no, rotate the engine with the socket another full revolution until the timing marks line up a 2nd time and check to make sure the rotor is now pointing at the #1 cylinder.
d. mark base of distributor and engine block (sharpie marker) with a single line which goes over the distributor base and the engine block (marks so you can put the distributor back in the same spot)
e. with distributor cap removed, eyeball some type of landmark on the engine or near it & mark where the rotor is pointing. I like to use a piece of tape wherever the rotor is pointing. (note: when you re-install the distributor, you won't get the rotor pointing exactly at the tape, but at least you'll be pretty close)
f. Remove bolt at bottom of distributor on the distributor hold down
g. pry up on the distributor (not the cap) and rotate the distributor while prying (I can't remember which direction). Basically, there's a distributor gear and an engine gear twisted together inside the engine and you are "untwisting" while lifting up on the distributor. Turning the rotor with your hand while you pry up on the distributor is a good way to do this.
h. do what you need to on the distributor (or replace it) or whatever you need.
i. when re-installing the distributor, keep that "un-twisting" in mind and push the distributor back down into the engine while twisting the rotor (try to use the old rotor for this twisting) and pushing down. Make sure the rotor is pointed at the piece of tape you used before. If you miss, pull the distributor out, turn the rotor slightly and try again.
j. Rotate distributor body itself until the line at the base of the distributor and the engine line up again.
k. install new rotor and cap.
l. start engine and set timing again
 
Remove the distributor cap
Mark the distributor body where the rotor is pointing
Mark the base of the distributor and the intake manifold
Do not turn over the engine over while the distributor is removed

When you reinstall the distributor with all your marks aligned accurately, it will fire right up.

distmarks.JPG


I have seen distributors so severely corroded that efforts to remove them results in damage. Make your marks and try rotating it, it should turn really easy.
 
Last edited:
Guys, he's pulling the engine. Is the OP going to overhaul this engine? Just pull the distributor out, if it's stuck, probably because of sludge and varnish.
 
Guys, he's pulling the engine. Is the OP going to overhaul this engine? Just pull the distributor out, if it's stuck, probably because of sludge and varnish.
Agree, if the OP is pulling then putting it back in then follow Kiwi's directions.
If you are rebuilding the engine then pull it and forget about it until you put it all back together. You'll have to start from scratch anyway.
 
Yes, the last two posts are correct. I will be removing the heads. I can get TDC via a dial gauge and check the crank marking. I will be putting in a new cam and lifters, valve springs. Oil pressure and compression are good. I thought the dizzy should come out in any position, but so far it will not, and I did not want to force it. Hence the question about whether there was some bizarre locking mechanism. I have marked the position, and will put it back in when the engine is out. Then get technical. I want it out before the snow flies, then I can work on the engine in the shed.
Should I put a bit more pressure under the dizzy body. I also thought the rotor should lift off. Same story with that.
I need about 2 more inches of clearance, so the sump can clear the front cross member. Thank you for your replies. Would be a lot easier if this was a pickup or car.
 
What I think the problem the OP is having, is the distributor & the rotor are stuck, & he's having a hard time getting them un-stuck. Soak the dizzy base with some penetrating oil (rotor shaft too) let it sit a few minutes, tap LIGHTLY with a little hammer, & they will probably come right out. Sometimes if they have been on the vehicle a long time, they will corrode in place, the distributor that is. Aluminum & cast iron will form a galvanic corrosion seal. The rotor will come off with a little persuasion no doubt.
 
Applied a bit more pressure. Dizzy popped out. O ring I suspect was holding it in place. Has been there since 1977.
The easier part was in reference to engine removal. Had to remove master cylinder, wiper motor, blower motor, valve covers, distributor, carb and much more. I pulled the gear box with the engine. Back in the gear box will go first. Got the wrong B&M kit, 10225, need 10228
 
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