Distributor Wiring

[ODZKing]

Not sure if this should go in Engine or Electrical ... but in any case.
My question is this. I have heard 2 different views on this and thought I would ask here as I am sure someone must have asked this in the past.
I know it matters what order the wires go on the distributor, naturally. BUT, do they have to be on a certain spot on the distributor?
Some people say no, as long as they are in order 1-8-4-3-6-5-4-2.
Others say yes, it will matter that the #1 plug is as shown below.
Opinions?

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Technically, no it doesn't matter where the plug wires are on the cap as long as the order is correct.

Realistically though, you will have a problem when you attempt to adjust the engine timing, depending on how far off you have the wires from the factory positions. What happens is the vacuum canister ends up in a weird location and usually interferes with the upper radiator hose or possibly back the other way interfering with the air cleaner or whatever???

 

[rocky61201]

Set the motor at #1 TDC and make sure its the revolution where the intake valve closes and then arrives at TDC on your timing pointer. Then look where the distributor rotor is pointing. That is where #1 plug wire should go.

 

[69a100]

The pic shown is for a 383, 440 & hemi, they go counter clockwise. Also with these, the vaccum can should be perpendicular to the motor. Small blocks go clockwise if you didn't know. Just follow what others have said and you'll be fine.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Set the motor at #1 TDC and make sure its the revolution where the intake valve closes and then arrives at TDC on your timing pointer. Then look where the distributor rotor is pointing. That is where #1 plug wire should go.

Not necessarily so. Suppose the intermediate shaft is indexed incorrectly, that puts the rotor out of place and then likewise all the wires are also rotated out of place. Also, the distributor could be installed with the rotor pointing in either of one of two different directions, 180 degrees apart from each other. Which one would you use? To get all the plug wires to route properly and the vacuum canister to align properly and STILL have clearance to adjust timing, like most things, there is only one correct way to do it.

Rocky is correct "IF" the intermediate shaft is installed properly and you pick the correct orientation of the rotor (50/50 chance) in the distributor. ccasion14:

 

[coloradodave]

If , as Rocky says, you make sure the intake valve closes and then turn CW until your timing marks align, you will be on TDC on the compression stroke. Where ever the rotor is pointing will be ready to fire #1 cylinder. If you then wire the cap 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in a CCW manner (assuming a B/B), you will be OK. The position of the intermediate shaft is of no consequence UNLESS you have an interference problem with the vacuum canister.
If you do, simply remove the distributor, lift the intermediate shaft and reposition it so that when you drop the distributor back in, the can is in a better place. Where ever the rotor is then pointing, is #1 cylinder.
I think a lot of guys get confused that the intermediate shaft has something to do with actual timing. It doesn't.
As long as the intake valve has just closed, there is NO chance to be 180* out.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

If , as Rocky says, you make sure the intake valve closes and then turn CW until your timing marks align, you will be on TDC on the compression stroke. Where ever the rotor is pointing will be ready to fire #1 cylinder. If you then wire the cap 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in a CCW manner (assuming a B/B), you will be OK. The position of the intermediate shaft is of no consequence UNLESS you have an interference problem with the vacuum canister.
If you do, simply remove the distributor, lift the intermediate shaft and reposition it so that when you drop the distributor back in, the can is in a better place. Where ever the rotor is then pointing, is #1 cylinder.
I think a lot of guys get confused that the intermediate shaft has something to do with actual timing. It doesn't.
As long as the intake valve has just closed, there is NO chance to be 180* out.

There's absolutely no CONFUSION here, there IS a correct orientation for the intermediate shaft (slot parallel to centerline of engine) and "no, it doesn't have anything to do with actual timing, it just goes round and round. There is also a correct orientation for the #1 plug wire (at about 4 to 5 o'clock position in the cap viewed from the top). I didn't say the "timing" would be 180 out, I said the "rotor could be" making your #1 wire in the wrong place. Which makes your wires hard to route properly, IF they are the correct factory type wires. If you use generic wires, then it isn't an issue and looks like crap anyway. Read your FSM, its all there. End of story. Do whatever. :icon_salut: :walk:

 

[coloradodave]

Touchy, touchy. I didn't mean to insinuate that YOU were confused. If you go back through several years you'll see that a lot of OTHER guys equate the intermediate shaft's position with how to time their car. That's all. I have read most of your posts and know that you know what you're doing. I don't need to start any new fires on here...lol

 

[ODZKing]

Sorry, didn't mean to start a s**t storm. But if it makes either of you feel better, I AM confused.
The 73 seems to run fine the way the wires are now. So 3 questions.
Can I move them to the correct locations according to the pic?
Do I have to remove the dist?
Do I have to redo the timing once/if I move them?

 

[coloradodave]

Question #1, 2 & 3: If you want to move the position of the #1 plug wire to a different spot you will have to remove the distributor and then reset the timing when you re-install it.
As M&M pointed out, if you want the wires to exit the cap in the stock, factory manner, then that's what you should do. If, on the other hand, the motor runs fine and you don't particularly care about being 'factory correct', you don't have to do anything. BTW, my #1 plug is between 1&2 o'clock.