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Do I need bigger torsion bars? SB to BB

It would be good if you could figure up what the weight difference is between the teen and the 'aluminized' 440 is. I know that a big block wedge head is about 40 lbs complete. Did the car come with AC? The factory compressor is fairly heavy too and if it isn't there anymore, that's another consideration. What would I do.....? I'd inspect the old bars to assess their condition. Did the car look like it was abused when you got it? Measure the diameter of the old bars and see what you have. Usually cars that were loaded up had a bit larger bar than one that was plain Jane.

Thanks for the advice. I measured the existing stock bars (they are in very good shape- car has 50k orig miles). They measure .92". Funny thing is the car is an original 318 without ac, but it has the "white hat package" with bucket seats, console, hood mounted turn signals, remote rear view mirror, wood grain wheel, and of course a white vinyl roof. Maybe there was a suspension option ordered with it? Where would that show on the production plate?

Looks like I'll be ok, but I'll have to check the front sway bar. No bar on the rear,
 
In 2001 when I pulled the 318 and swapped in a 440, the car weight went up by 90 lbs.
The 318 had A/C and was all iron. The 440 had an aluminum intake, aluminum radiator and no A/C. I thought the weight difference would have been greater. I went from stock torsion bars to the Mopar Performance 1.0" set. Yes, the car rode stiffer. Common sense tells anyone with it that a stiffer spring would deliver a stiffer ride. I didn't know how crucial the choice of shock absorber would be, I went with what was cheap and widely available. For many years, I drove lowered vehicles that rode stiff so maybe the standard of what is acceptable is different for me.
Never have I experienced a "teeth rattling" ride in any car, even the lowered ones. That description that some people use has never been what I would use.
Torsion bars have not evolved much over the years but shock absorbers have.
You can have a shock that, for the lack of a better term, tames the frequencies of the spring rate.
When I changed to the 1.15" bars, I changed to Bilstein shocks at the same time. I expected a firmer ride but much to my surprise, it was similar but smoother. There was less lean, less brake dive but fewer shakes and rattles. I won't state that the 1.0" bars and KYB shocks delivered a "teeth rattling" ride but it was not smooth. The bigger bars were a better match for the car because of the shocks. If I had kept the 1.0 bars but changed the shocks, I may have felt that the front needed more spring rate. Good handling has been my primary goal since I first started driving.
My limits of ride tolerance may be higher than the guys that grew up where it was popular to raise cars up. In the 80s, we lowered our cars and trucks. A firm ride was what we were used to feeling.
I like a low car too and never did the stink bug look.....well, bought a car once that came with air shocks and thought I'd see just how bad I could make it handle or not handle. Shocks were aired up all the way and then lowered the front end all the way down. Talk about a crappy ride! It was like that for about 1 mile.....
 
Ken Dog said it. Shocks really are the secret sauce these days.
 
Ken Dog said it. Shocks really are the secret sauce these days.
Imo, the shocks were the secret sauce a lot of years ago.....but usually had to do trial and error to get what worked the best. These days, the technology is MUCH better and one can usually get what they need by talking with a tech at the places that sell the performance shocks.
 
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