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Do you need a special timing set when switching to a roller cam in a big block?

To stop the cover flex install the timing cover with gasket on engine. Clean the front and apply a mound of JB Weld. Apply shipping tape to the back side of pump housing, install on engine with gaskets and leave til JB has setup. Remove pump housing and your clearance will be all gone clarence. You'll have a cover with no flex.
 
JB Weld will work fine, I attached mine to the pump housing, but you can do it the other way around.
 
To stop the cover flex install the timing cover with gasket on engine. Clean the front and apply a mound of JB Weld. Apply shipping tape to the back side of pump housing, install on engine with gaskets and leave til JB has setup. Remove pump housing and your clearance will be all gone clarence. You'll have a cover with no flex.

JB Weld will work fine, I attached mine to the pump housing, but you can do it the other way around.

I appreciate the patience with me on this stuff.
I'm guessing that fore/aft movement of the cam has to be limited to keep the lifter wheels in proper contact.
I've never checked to see how close the timing chain is to the back side of the timing cover. The cover always slipped in place and I never thought about it.
 
Thanks guys.
This is new to me. I read that the Torrington bearing for the cam sprocket was recommended but I wanted to make sure.
Regarding the cam button….010 sure isn’t much. I’m guessing that you have to account for the thickness of the timing cover gasket when measuring?
Absolutely. And there's no standard thickness.
 
I have a cast roller cam in my SB. Howards
Flat tappet cams keep the cam walk in place, roller doesn't.
 
There are hole bunch of roller cam cores available with different alloys such as 1050, 5160 and 8620. There is billet, cast and s.a.d.i. cast cores. Usually the price is a way to tell! Some billets have a gear compatible with steel gears. The 8620 used in most solid rollers has a bit of a copper tint and is stronger with deeper hard surfacing and is more expensive. There are also billet cams that have a gear that are compatible with steel distributor gears. Howards sells billet 1050 cores that they recommend steel gear. The gear is tempered different then the rest of the cam I believe.

Just pay attention to what distributor gear is recommended for the cam your buying.

if you don't run the timing set with the Torrington bearing the timing gear might machine itself into the block. Especially with higher spring pressures. We just got a block back that had it happen. It seems to be a bit random. We ran a roller cam for years with stock double roller chain and no buttom and had no problems. Then we had one repaired that ground itself into the block. The gear w the torrington bearing wasn't a option then. I suggest you buy one. They are a good deal.
 
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I think I've seen guys weld a plate on the inside of the cover to keep flex under control. What have you seen? I am doing this swap on everyone of my engine rebuilds.

I welded a s. steel washer inside mine , all I could come up with a t work !...lol

I think a guy could rig a spacer between the back of the water pump and cover if he wanted to...
 
Most chain drive guys I know run these
20250219_191511.jpg
20250219_191540.jpg
 
Yes, you want the cover bolted on as it will be final installed.
Since I haven't done this before and haven't been around anyone that has, everything that is different compared to a flat tappet swap is foreign to me. I wondered how the cam end play was measured and it wasn't until I saw a video with a dial indicator mounted in the lifter valley that it made sense. I wonder though if the oil pump drive needs to be in place for this.

Trying to remember, seems like the Rollmaster set I used had the Torrington bearing in the back of the cam sprocket. I used a dial indicator off the back of the cam for cam walk. Your gonna have several cycles of fitting. It all has to be together to check it. Have a Comp cams button number and probably the Rollmaster numbers if you need them.

Looking at the Comp Cams site under the category of Required Components They list this timing set. It mentions nothing about a Torrington bearing.


CC TS1.png


CC TS2.png


They also list a beehive type valve spring with the following rate:

155 seated, 377 loaded.
 
I wonder though if the oil pump drive needs to be in place for this.
No, it does not. "If" the cam walks a couple thou the helical cut of the gears allows the movement. Picture the two gears as "winding or unwinding".
 

Summit Racing™ Billet Steel Timing Sets SUM-G6606R-B​


Part Number: SUM-G6606R-B
Summit Racing SUM-G6606R-B - Summit Racing™ Billet Steel Timing Sets





$99.99
Summit Racing™ Billet Steel Timing Sets
Timing Chain and Gear Set, True Roller, Double Roller, Billet Steel Sprockets, Mopar, Big Block, Set
See More Specifications |


Timing Chain Included:
Yes
Timing Chain Style:
Double roller
Camshaft Gear Attachment:
3-bolt
Maximum Advance/Retard at Camshaft:
4 degree
Maximum Advance/Retard at Crankshaft:
8 degree
Cam Gear Included:
Yes
Cam Gear Material:
Steel
Crank Gear Included:
Yes
Crank Gear Material:
Steel
VVT Gear Included:
No
Tensioner Included:
No
Thrust Bearing Included:
Yes

Bolts/Studs Included:
No
Gaskets Included:
No
Offset Bushings Included:
No
Quantity:
Sold as a set.
Notes:
Includes torrington bearing.

Special Attention:
3-bolt cam gear.
 
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