Does this look right!?

[koosh]

Backside of the alternator gauge on a 68 charger. When first hooked up the battery after dash was reassembled, heard a arcing noise? So immediately disconnected the battery upon investigation once battery got hooked up again, and the noise went away. I looked at the back of the alternator gauge. Put my finger on the red wire and it arc between the stud and the casing. Is this an incorrect insulator set up?

 

[LowBikeMike]

No. It is not. Insulator should be against cluster frame.

 

[koosh]

No. It is not. Insulator should be against cluster frame.

My thoughts too, but I wasnt sure. There’s even a “stain” where it looked like that red rectangular insulator rested against the housing…. Would this cause something else to blow? Since i have no dash lights, no headlights?
Also, if i place that red insulator on first, then first set of nuts to snug the studs, then wires, then second set of nuts correct?

 

[Jerry Hall]

The connection process you just stated is correct. What you blew by arcing 12V to the cluster case, only time will tell. Connect it correctly and see what works and what doesn't.

 

[threewood]

Make sure the studs going through the housing are isolated and not touching.

 

[koosh]

Make sure the studs going through the housing are isolated and not touching.

I don’t like the condition of the studs. They’re very sloppy, and I cannot guarantee that they will not touch the housing. So after reading many many articles, it appears the safest thing to do would be to eliminate the gauge and connect the red and black wire together?
By the way, would there be a fusible link somewhere in location unknown to me that could be affected by this?

 

[SgtSuperbird]

70 b-body...

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I don’t like the condition of the studs. They’re very sloppy, and I cannot guarantee that they will not touch the housing. So after reading many many articles, it appears the safest thing to do would be to eliminate the gauge and connect the red and black wire together?
By the way, would there be a fusible link somewhere in location unknown to me that could be affected by this?

“the safest thing”? Not necessarily, need to inspect to insulator in the inside of the cluster and replace the home-made insulator pictured with the correct insulator, assemble correctly. A short at the ammeter studs should have taken out the fusible link at the starter relay. On a ’68, the link is between the starter relay and the bulkhead connector.

 

[koosh]

“the safest thing”? Not necessarily, need to inspect to insulator in the inside of the cluster and replace the home-made insulator pictured with the correct insulator, assemble correctly. A short at the ammeter studs should have taken out the fusible link at the starter relay. On a ’68, the link is between the starter relay and the bulkhead connector.

Ok….so i jumped the2 wires previously connected to alt gage…i have the exact senario as before….

No headlights (new headlight switch)
No dash lights
No wipers
Starter works (motor turns over)
Signal lights work
NO voltage at the “instrument light fuse” either side, in the panel-3amp fuse is new
Voltage exists at all remaining fuses

 

[koosh]

PS: if starter is working, then relay fusible link is ok?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Ok….so i jumped the2 wires previously connected to alt gage…i have the exact senario as before….

No headlights (new headlight switch)
No dash lights
Starter works (motor turns over)
Signal lights work
NO voltage at the “instrument light fuse” either side, in the panel-3amp fuse is new
Voltage exists at all remaining fuses

Is there battery voltage on the red ammeter lead?

 

[koosh]

Is there battery voltage on the red ammeter lead?

Oh man…. Thats been heat shrink covered and a rubber hose on top of that!
I have the wiring diagram in front of me….. im trying to make sense of it

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Oh man…. Thats been heat shrink covered and a rubber hose on top of that!
I have the wiring diagram in front of me….. im trying to make sense of it

Ok, the other ammeter lead, black, feeds splice 1, in turn feeds the fuse box, headlight switch, ignition switch, do you have battery voltage at any of those?

 

[koosh]

Ok, the other ammeter lead, black, feeds splice 1, in turn feeds the fuse box, headlight switch, ignition switch, do you have battery voltage at any of those?

I THINK you’re asking if there’s voltage at the black amp gage wire? Thats bolted together with the red, in shrink.
I don’t know what “Splice 1” means?
The fuse box must have power since all fuses have voltage EXCEPT the instrument panel fuse… i assume ignition switch has voltage since the starter works when turning key…
I have not checked anything regarding the headlight switch?

 

[koosh]

Id like to add…. I REALLY appreciate your help with this, as i absolutely SUCK with electrical issues….

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Ok, down to just lights that are not working? Is there battery voltage at terminal B1 of the headlight switch? It is labeled on the switch. Splice 1 is a welded splice in the dash harness that is the main power distribution for the dash harness.

 

[koosh]

Ok, down to just lights that are not working? Is there battery voltage at terminal B1 of the headlight switch? It is labeled on the switch. Splice 1 is a welded splice in the dash harness that is the main power distribution for the dash harness.View attachment 1829644

Heading back under there. Will check these you mentioned. As far as what’s not working….
No headlights
No dash light
No wiper motor
No horn

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

B1 at the headlight switch should be a black wire with a white trace. Wipers are powered from the ignition switch accessory circuit, pink wire at the wiper switch. Should have with the key on.

 

[koosh]

Ok update- i found multi wire connector not all the way on to wiperswitch, wipers now work. I have 12 V at the black and white striped wire at the headlight switch.I have headlights (very dim) and i don’t know why except i wiggle the big firewall connector a bit (which is new),
I have no dash lights, even playing with dash dimmer)
I have no brake or tail lights, but that fuse just got blown….
One thing I did notice while under there, was the brake light switch is not even touching the pedal assembly, which means it’s in the on position all the time? So I have to look into that maybe that switch shorted out the taillight fuse?

 

[koosh]

Tested brake light switch, works fine. Adjusted same switch to operate correctly with the brake pedal, so now not on all the time.
Push brake pedal right rear lights up. No left. Turn left signal on dash bulb and left rears stay on, no blink.
And there’s a “holy crap” to this!
Right signal on- rright rears blink, right hood blinks, and LEFT FRONT BLINKS!
OMG!
next, as soon as put headlights on- rear tailghts fuse blows….i guess check running light wires to the rear is up next….
pass the scotch