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Does this make sense? sticking caliper

davek

davek

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Both calipers are 5 years old. New hoses and bleed system and the discs are hard to turn. I opened the bleeder bolts and still hard to turn. New pads and all is clean. If I wait 12 hours the free up. So does this guy know what hes talking about? 1970 Bee manual brakes with disc up front.
 
My brake pedal is not soft , always had good braking on car and no pulling. What are the chances of both going bad. Wagner calipers from OReillys auto
 
There will be some drag. When driving do they seem to be getting hot? Most of the time the more you drive the worse they get. Does seem odd that both would do that.
 
pnora said:
There will be some drag. When driving do they seem to be getting hot? Most of the time the more you drive the worse they get. Does seem odd that both would do that.
Click to expand...
no they drag hard after driving.
 
davek said:
no they drag hard after driving.
Click to expand...
Replace one and see what happens. Make sure all your caliper slides and pads fit properly first. If the pads are sticking they will tighten up with heat.
 
pnora said:
Replace one and see what happens. Make sure all your caliper slides and pads fit properly first. If the pads are sticking they will tighten up with heat.
Click to expand...
2 different sets of pads same result , calipers/slides are clean
 
Dave, do they stick only when you are power braking the car?????
Oh that’s right , you have a 4 speed. My bad. :poke::lol:
 
davek said:
2 different sets of pads same result , calipers/slides are clean
Click to expand...
How stiff are the pistons when pushing them back? What calipers are you running?
 
BrakeBest for OReillys 5 year ago and the piston gos in hard
 
wonder if I have the right porportion valve
 
davek said:
wonder if I have the right porportion valve
Click to expand...
That valve will not hold pressure. Cracking the bleeder would eliminate everything from the master to the caliper. You answered that in your first post when you said that.
 
Yup, cracking the bleeder eliminated most of the variables... Could try an old racer trick, loosen the preload on the wheel bearings 1/4-1/2 turn... It will allow the rotor enough movement to bump the pads back slightly..

End of the day either the piston is sticking in the bore or the seal isn't flexing enough to pull the piston back slightly like it should...
 
Has this been a problem for 5 years ? Were the hoses and brake fluid changed 5 years ago or just recently ?
Trying to find out what happened to cause the problem.
 
OK I know this is going to sound odd. When I had my Dakota R/T I put new drilled and slotted rotors on the front. Went to work drove fine. On the way home it kept getting harder and harder to take off from redlights. The next redlight I notice smoke from the driver side. Then I make it to the next light and its literally on fire. I pull over and go into Oreillys and snag a couple bottles of water. and put the fire out. Never in my life have I had a brake fire. So I ruined a brand new rotor that was glowing red hot by dumping water on it.

So I figured out what the problem was. The caliper was fine but, the rubber hose was worn out and I assume deteriorating inside. It caused the internal diameter to rip and make a weird flap. So It would let fluid pass thru but would not let it return. The hose was internally messed up. I bought Stainless Steel braided lines for the front and a new rotor and never had the issue again. I'm not saying this is your case but just something to think about.
 
BeepBeepRR said:
OK I know this is going to sound odd. When I had my Dakota R/T I put new drilled and slotted rotors on the front. Went to work drove fine. On the way home it kept getting harder and harder to take off from redlights. The next redlight I notice smoke from the driver side. Then I make it to the next light and its literally on fire. I pull over and go into Oreillys and snag a couple bottles of water. and put the fire out. Never in my life have I had a brake fire. So I ruined a brand new rotor that was glowing red hot by dumping water on it.

So I figured out what the problem was. The caliper was fine but, the rubber hose was worn out and I assume deteriorating inside. It caused the internal diameter to rip and make a weird flap. So It would let fluid pass thru but would not let it return. The hose was internally messed up. I bought Stainless Steel braided lines for the front and a new rotor and never had the issue again. I'm not saying this is your case but just something to think about.
Click to expand...
Bad hoses are a pretty common failure but if you had read the first post he states the hoses are new... So both new hoses being bad is unlikely.....
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Bad hoses are a pretty common failure but if you had read the first post he states the hoses are new... So both new hoses being bad is unlikely.....
Click to expand...
I got you... I have a tendency to overlook information.. lol But Just thought I'd offer a little info.
 
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