NJRR
Well-Known Member
What about reusing the fittings off the inline tube line? if they are intact, just cut them off with a tubing cutter and slide on the new line before you double flare the ends.
Dr Diff front disc conversion 68 Road Runner
- Thread starter Billccm
- Start date
Huh? If that's the case, they should stipulate that on Eflag to prevent "buyers beware" syndrome. Probably should've gone right to their site itself. Oh well, guess lesson learn
69L48Z27
Well-Known Member
I needed some fittings when I did my conversion the other week and AutoZone had an entire end cap, behind the counter, of fittings and straight line sections. I was pretty impressed at the amount of fittings they had. The small fittings that use a 3/8" wrench are very com, that's the size that goes in the flex lines and distribution blocks.
The only place you'll get actual pre-bent lines for these cars is where you got the ones you have now, plus a couple other vendors.
If you have a flare tool you try to re-flare the lines if you see they are out of round or screwed up. If they look good they should tighten up eventually.
Are you using flare wrenches when you tighten the lines? I had one line that I thought I was going to twist off to get it to seal.
Well, I really hate to admit defeat and throw in the towel, but this disc conversion has gone so wrong with so many items I have decided to call in help. My two friends that are A Body Mopar hobbyist/enthusiast are also done with helping me as they have given up.
A mechanical engineer that I work with who was a former Porsche/Mercedes Benz mechanic in his younger years (and big Chevy motorhead Chevelle racer) turns wrenches on the weekends for $45/hour cash. He is bringing his brake line fabrication 'machine' that does fancy flares and precision bends and an assortment of tools tomorrow morning to bail me out. I'll consider this tuition to learn something and perhaps see what I've done wrong.
Wish me (and my hourly mechanic) luck.
A mechanical engineer that I work with who was a former Porsche/Mercedes Benz mechanic in his younger years (and big Chevy motorhead Chevelle racer) turns wrenches on the weekends for $45/hour cash. He is bringing his brake line fabrication 'machine' that does fancy flares and precision bends and an assortment of tools tomorrow morning to bail me out. I'll consider this tuition to learn something and perhaps see what I've done wrong.
Wish me (and my hourly mechanic) luck.
YES on the line wrenches! I have a very nice set of Craftsman 'professional' line wrenches.
I had a mechanical engineer at work spec out the tube nuts. Tube nut is 3/8-24 and 7/16-24. I'll check autozone, but in Tucson store stock is erratic at best for these kind of things. If you need an air freshener, or 2 gallons of Armor All they will have it, but hardware is very hit and miss. I even called a heavy truck line fabricator company today and they came up empty on the tube nuts.
It's 'no two brake lines are alike' from what I've read on various forums. Some people claim that you must torque the tube nut until it is on the verge of cracking, and others say that if you over torque you are bound to leak. Being someone who has worked in the engineering profession for 30 years, I find this so unbelievable and confusing.
If you go to InLine Tube's home page, they display the eBay seller link almost in the center top of the page!
The price is no different on eBay. I used eBay solely because I had several gift cards from Christmas.
I was waiting to give InLine Tube another chance, but I have decided to give negative feedback and cut my losses.
If I don't get it fixed today I'll order a brake line kit from Dr Diff. At least he answers my emails.
I've never dealt with them. I think after the ebay store on there website and no backup they deserve a bitch fest! I'd mention that your on FBBO and people have been following your trials and tribulations. Go to it. You'll feel better.
I'm going to wait until the problem is solved (if I ever get it solved that is). Once I know for certain it's InLine tube's defect I plan on getting the word out.
Yes that's the $45 an hour question.
I did the Mopar Action swap in 2002 did all my lines and flaring. I had one screw up. I bolted down the distribution block before attaching all the lines. cross threaded one of the fittings. I bought the simple kit for making single and double flares in the 70's $25. Never thought I'd use it that much, wrong.
I did the Mopar Action swap in 2002 did all my lines and flaring. I had one screw up. I bolted down the distribution block before attaching all the lines. cross threaded one of the fittings. I bought the simple kit for making single and double flares in the 70's $25. Never thought I'd use it that much, wrong.
Well...........I don't feel so bad. We still had leaks here and there after the lines were removed, inspected, etc, etc. I was feeling like maybe this can't be fixed. Finally, the guy said he would just tighten 'until the nuts are deformed'. This brute force plan eliminated all leaks, but these lines will never be removed again without damage.
We had to bleed the system about 11 times (I counted). It was frustrating. The rears bleed fine, but the fronts were so difficult to get a good flow. Went through lots of brake fluid. Then I got a good pedal all of the sudden as if something changed miraculously.
Adjusted the ride height and went for a drive and he told me to take it to 15 MPH and panic stop a few times. Then up to 25 MPH and panic stop a few times. After a few of these stops I could tell the brakes were getting better.
Drove around the neighborhood quite a bit, and he called it fixed. He is not a MOPAR guy, but said he was impressed on how solid my Road Runner is and thinks it needs nothing to be a good driver.
Car pulls slightly to the right. I'll get an alignment next weekend.
Took the car down for a fill up and drew a crowd that pissed off customers waiting to get gas, and I enjoyed every minute.
Paid the guy $200 cash. Best money I've ever spent as I know I would have never brute forced the line nuts as he did.
Lesson learned:
1) InLine Tube sells crap.
2) I'm no mechanic. I can't even qualify as a shade tree. I was in over my head on this disc conversion.
3) InLine Tube does not support the products they sell.
4) Dr Diff supports the products he sells.
5) I will never do another disc conversion, and any major work this car needs in the future will force a eBay fire sale.
6) InLine Tube sells crap (worth mentioning again).
Thanks to all for the sympathy and moral support. I'm off to a MOPAR car show in my Road Runner!
We had to bleed the system about 11 times (I counted). It was frustrating. The rears bleed fine, but the fronts were so difficult to get a good flow. Went through lots of brake fluid. Then I got a good pedal all of the sudden as if something changed miraculously.
Adjusted the ride height and went for a drive and he told me to take it to 15 MPH and panic stop a few times. Then up to 25 MPH and panic stop a few times. After a few of these stops I could tell the brakes were getting better.
Drove around the neighborhood quite a bit, and he called it fixed. He is not a MOPAR guy, but said he was impressed on how solid my Road Runner is and thinks it needs nothing to be a good driver.
Car pulls slightly to the right. I'll get an alignment next weekend.
Took the car down for a fill up and drew a crowd that pissed off customers waiting to get gas, and I enjoyed every minute.
Paid the guy $200 cash. Best money I've ever spent as I know I would have never brute forced the line nuts as he did.
Lesson learned:
1) InLine Tube sells crap.
2) I'm no mechanic. I can't even qualify as a shade tree. I was in over my head on this disc conversion.
3) InLine Tube does not support the products they sell.
4) Dr Diff supports the products he sells.
5) I will never do another disc conversion, and any major work this car needs in the future will force a eBay fire sale.
6) InLine Tube sells crap (worth mentioning again).
Thanks to all for the sympathy and moral support. I'm off to a MOPAR car show in my Road Runner!
wilmacmike
Well-Known Member
WOW, what a fiasco.
I just sat here and read this whole thread from start to finish, as I am considering a conversion on my 64 Polara 500 in the future.
My hat is off to Billccm for sticking to it. You did a fantastic job of documenting this conversion.
Its too bad that you and anyone else would have to go through such a hassle as you expeienced in upgrading you car.
It really sounds like Inline Tube needs to re-engineer the kits they sell, as it should never take that kind of force to seal up the flared fittings. As for their lack of support just because you bought the kit from their Ebay store is shamefull.
I will surely stay as far away from them as a supplier. They will not get my business.
Dr. Diff is the way to go!
Again, Billccm thank you for a job well done. You have given all of us a heads up that will save some of us the head aches you went through..
Mike
God Bless America
Thanks for the kind words, Mike.
I will be the 'voice of caution' on this forum concerning front disc conversions. Although my brakes work great and the performance is fantastic, if I had to do over again I would have gone with a musclecarbrakes.com solution. My first inclination was to go with musclecarbrakes.com, as there is no heavy modifications (plug and play), and the lower the parts count the lower the opportunity of mistakes and problems. I went with the disc as the engineer in me wanted a 'known and proven' performance improvement.
I encourage you to consider musclebrakes.com for your Polara, but if you do go with disc, I can recommend Dr Diff as a great supplier!
I will be the 'voice of caution' on this forum concerning front disc conversions. Although my brakes work great and the performance is fantastic, if I had to do over again I would have gone with a musclecarbrakes.com solution. My first inclination was to go with musclecarbrakes.com, as there is no heavy modifications (plug and play), and the lower the parts count the lower the opportunity of mistakes and problems. I went with the disc as the engineer in me wanted a 'known and proven' performance improvement.
I encourage you to consider musclebrakes.com for your Polara, but if you do go with disc, I can recommend Dr Diff as a great supplier!
Just when I thought this thread was done I get a reply from InLine Tube over eBay's email. For the benefit of the forum readers here is the reply:
At the valve or the hose? Is the component new or old? The thing is that you need to for a seat in the component and if it is a part that has had a prior seat made, it may take some time to get it to seal. Even if new, the materials are sometimes harder than what they should be so it can again take time. Make sure the line is sitting in the middle of the component prior to tightening it as there is enough movement of the line and tube nut to allow it not to be. Once you make sure the line is centered you will want to tighten it down and then loosen it again. Once loose, make sure you are centered again and then repeat. You may need to do this several times in order for the seat to form. Give this a try and let us know.
At least they replied (7 days later).
At the valve or the hose? Is the component new or old? The thing is that you need to for a seat in the component and if it is a part that has had a prior seat made, it may take some time to get it to seal. Even if new, the materials are sometimes harder than what they should be so it can again take time. Make sure the line is sitting in the middle of the component prior to tightening it as there is enough movement of the line and tube nut to allow it not to be. Once you make sure the line is centered you will want to tighten it down and then loosen it again. Once loose, make sure you are centered again and then repeat. You may need to do this several times in order for the seat to form. Give this a try and let us know.
At least they replied (7 days later).
AMX364
Well-Known Member
On a leak at a banjo fitting, if the new rings leak, put some used ones on, they always seem to seal then.
Since this was a conversion from drums, I had no used parts. I'm glad you mentioned the banjo leak. I had forgot to tell that detail.
The passenger side banjo would leak 1 drop. My mechanic friend tightened and re-tightened. Still 1 drop during our 11 rounds of bleeding. He asked for my breaker bar and gave it his weight, and it stopped leaking.
Makes me wonder what they used on the assembly line back in the day. Did the line workers bench press their weight so that they could tighten brake fittings?
wilmacmike
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the link to Musclecarbrakes.com, I would not mind using super performance drum brakes like what they offer, since I want to stay with 14" wheels to keep my spinner hub caps.
Checking out their website, hovering over the Polara selection does not light up, so I am thinking they may not have a kit for my 64 Polara yet. I put a call into them, so I will be waiting for a response back from them.
Years ago when I was in high school my first car was a 1964 Dodge Polara 500 with a 426 street wedge and a four speed. I used what was called "velvet touch" lining on all of the brake shoes on all four drums. It would stop on a dime with no fade at all. Great stuff.
I may go that route with my current Polara if it is still available.
Again, thanks for the heads up.
Keep on Mopar-ing...
God Bless America!
Mike
I had to play phone tag with musclecarbrakes a bit, but did finally connect.
I drove my friends 68 Chevelle with musclecarbrakes at all 4 wheels. It stopped well. He is very satisfied with the product.
Like I said before, knowing what I know now, I'd do musclecarbrakes if I had to do over.
I drove my friends 68 Chevelle with musclecarbrakes at all 4 wheels. It stopped well. He is very satisfied with the product.
Like I said before, knowing what I know now, I'd do musclecarbrakes if I had to do over.
Had to use a breaker bar? Should NEVER have to use one. I found on one of mine was leaking and found out the bolt was bottoming out, like they didn't have the hole deep enuf. Took the banjo bolt and ground down a thread and put it in with MINIMAL effort, done and no leaks
Similar threads
