Drag link mounting points: to lube or not to lube.

[fullmetaljacket]

Contrary to other makes and their drag links, the Mopar drag link at the points of mounting (Pitman arm, Idler arm, Tie rod ends) are considered a non wear item.

For that reason alone, is it NOT so important to lube those ends at the time of mounting? How many of you actually apply a dab of bearing grease, white lithium or just anti-seize in the mounting holes or do y'all just install dry?

 

[69Bee]

I have taken apart joints that were assembled decades ago, and the tapered hole and tapered shaft were perfect. Above and below the tow points are different story though. I wouldn't think so, but it could be possible to hydraulic the joint with the lube and affect the torque of the joint to the point that it could possibly fail.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I have taken apart joints that were assembled decades ago, and the tapered hole and tapered shaft were perfect. Above and below the tow points are different story though. I wouldn't think so, but it could be possible to hydraulic the joint with the lube and affect the torque of the joint to the point that it could possibly fail.

Are you saying that a smear of lubricant in the four holes could affect integrity of the joint as far as strength? I don't understand, but we are talking about the center link or drag link. A solid piece.

 

[69Bee]

If a cylinder hydro-locks, the liquid is no longer able to be compressed and the connecting rod bends or breaks. I was referring to the tapered joints in the center link having the possibility of hydro-locking by not being able to squeeze out all of the lube and "possibly" creating a problem, not that it "definitely" will. In my experience, joints like this are installed dry.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

If a cylinder hydro-locks, the liquid is no longer able to be compressed and the connecting rod bends or breaks. I was referring to the tapered joints in the center link having the possibility of hydro-locking by not being able to squeeze out all of the lube and "possibly" creating a problem, not that it "definitely" will. In my experience, joints like this are installed dry.

Gotcha Bee. Thank you.

 

[RemCharger]

Clean and dry.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Clean and dry.

Roger that. Thanks guys.

 

[zyzzyx]

Just my 2 cents, but I Always put a drop of light oil on a tapered fit. Just so it comes apart next time.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Roger that.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Boy, am I known for bringing up highly controversial and rarely discussed threads for a series of debates.
I also figured that a small dab of anti-seize or oil wasn't a bad thing neither, but if that creates a chemical imbalance between two hard parts: ie a drag link and a ball joint stud, then I want to hear all arguments.

I was recently told that never to dab anti-seize on Titanium wheel studs. It creates a reaction that can lead to fatigue. WTF.

 

[steve340]

On the tapers nothing but a dab of anti-seize on the threads is a good idea.