Tell ya, radial tires sure made a difference - wonder how I drove all those years before radials were the thing on my GTO and Cuda. Suppose driving habits changed as people drive fearless (or stupid) tailgating and whipping around corners you'd never have gotten away with on the non-rads. Yeah disks made a nice difference but then it don't help the idjits driving up my ***. The LED tail lights were a nice addition at least for those who pay attention to brake lights...
Drum Brakes
- Thread starter mountain33
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Rusty 72
Well-Known Member
I have drums on my A body and I live in the city and frequently use the interstate. I am an aware driver. I don't tailgate because I know there are people out who just cut over with no blinkers etc. I'm always on alert for that. If somebody cuts in front of you that severely, sadly drums or discs aren't gonna help you.
I have factory disc/drums on my B body and honestly the A body with the all drums stops better. I wouldn't hesitate to keep the drums on all corners. I know lots of people who've swapped over to disc's but I think it's more a keeping up with the Jones' than it is for actual safety.
You do what you wanna do it's you who's driving it. Good luck!
I have factory disc/drums on my B body and honestly the A body with the all drums stops better. I wouldn't hesitate to keep the drums on all corners. I know lots of people who've swapped over to disc's but I think it's more a keeping up with the Jones' than it is for actual safety.
You do what you wanna do it's you who's driving it. Good luck!
I'd bet a whole lot of us could write a story or 5, on how people react when we're driving our cherry rides. I got some impressions or slants: They will tailgate, they will want to beat you off the line at a stoplight, they don't want to have you in front of them, or they do (latter seems to be those who have appreciation for older rides and want a longer look), or the scha-mucks in some POS 10 year old Toyota or other Asian car, that for some reason wants to be an irritation...speed up or slow down on a 4-lane road alongside so you can't get ahead of them when another schmuck ahead is driving 10mph under the speed limit. Also assume (a more prominent thought to me) some people, always in a big ******* hurry, assume since you're driving a nice vintage car you must be joy-riding with no place to go. Accordingly, well WTF, you have no right to be impeding their travel as they further assume they're more important having a pressing destination. I also surmise these people NEVER figure out a way to friggin leave ten minutes earlier to curtail some of their mad rush, cuz I know people like this. I did the drill for years taking my kids to parochial school some 25 miles from home and then heading back in another direction in rush hour traffic for work ON time. I ahh told my kids we're leaving at 6:00, not 6:15, or 6:30 each day and they get to school a bit earlier - period. No friggin mad rush on the streets because I wouldn't get our asses going a tad earlier!Put laser lights pointing out your back window with a on/off switch.
66 convert
Active Member
I am doing a dual master cylinder conversion on my 66 coronet 440 convertible.I have 4 wheel manual drums.I ordered a reproduction 809 master online.This is suppose to be correct for a b body with manual drum brakes.The master I received does not have the machined groove in the piston for the push rod retainer.Will this work with out it.I am thinking when everything is put together it can’t come out do to the stop at the brake light switch.Something tells me I should just send back and order one with the retainer groove.RamMan Inc.sells the one that has it.Any thoughts or has anyone had this situation?
There's a rubber piece that slips over end of push rod then you push it into master cylinder. If you try to remove it it breaks the rubber. Push rod needs a step near the end. Pic of yours?
Picture of rod and rubber piece.
66 convert
Active Member
I have the rubber piece on the end of my push rod.My problem is the new master does not have the machined groove the rubber locks into.
Does it really need to be locked in? If you install it after master is installed and bolted to pedal can it fall out? Had a similar problem but had an adjustable push rod.
66 convert
Active Member
Photos of what I have
66 convert
Active Member
I don’t think it can but I know it is not right
I'm out of suggestions.
66 convert
Active Member
Thanks for the help.I just wish I could find out if it would work without issues.
If you do it as I did in earlier post. If rod can't be pulled out with you pulling brake pedal against stop how is it coming out? Some of the different ways to hold rod in maybe for production purposes. The rubber also for anti rattle. Only do what your comfortable with.
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
I highly recommend this source...He has NOS parts that you would not believe...great guy to do business with.....................MO
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
This is the guy I recommended earlier...excellent vendor......................MO
MoparLeo
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Anybody who says that their drum brakes are equal/superior to disc Has never driven in the rain and HAD to stop. Or driven down a long grade and had to pump the brakes more than a few times on the way down and didn't have the pedal drop to the floor or have nothing happen after they heated up. These are known facts, and safety was the original main reason for dual master cylinder systems and front disc. Just admit it. Drums were the brake system of the day but any disc brake car of today ( all of them are) no matter how basic or cheap the car is will out brake anything from the 60's/70's. From experience.... Just like the difference between bias ply and radial tires. No comparison if you are honest. OK if you just want to stay original, but not because they perform better.
Put drums and bias ply on your new car if they were that good. I bet you won't.
Simplest conversions and all factory parts, just go with the :
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html
Put drums and bias ply on your new car if they were that good. I bet you won't.
Simplest conversions and all factory parts, just go with the :
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html
Last edited:
wagonwedge330
Well-Known Member
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