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Early 727 filter

If all the later model TFs didn't need the inline filter why would the 62s? I'm thinking engineering was overruled by the bean counters for 63 and later.
Mike
 
493 Mike said:
If all the later model TFs didn't need the inline filter why would the 62s? I'm thinking engineering was overruled by the bean counters for 63 and later.
Mike
Click to expand...

They only had an internal screen not a dacron fabric filter.
 
Thank y'all for the replies. Yesterday I went to a small local auto parts and bought the last eight quarts of type F fluid that they had. After considering everything, I think that my best bet is to put a stock '64 up pan on and then a '64-'65 filter. When I moved, I probably threw out some stock pans. Mancini has a raw pan for $20.00 but it is undoubtedly an offshore stamping. Anyone have a stock 727 pan in decent shape for a decent price?
Thanks,
John
 
I think the early Torqueflights with the external inline filter also had a 2-hole copper mesh filter on the valve body. A&A Transmissions near Indy sell a modern Dacron 2-hole filter for the valve body. If a deep pan is needed, they also sell 2-hole filter extensions.
 
Thought that I would give an update. After removing the pan, I found that there was a factory two hole filter. I put in a new one, cleaned the pan and painted the outside, New gasket and good to go. I also found a WIX 58964 in line transmission filter is very close to the same dimensions as the original MoPar, Downside is that it uses rubber hose connections. I'm not going to cut the original lines, but will make up steel connections.
Not to do anything other than simulate the factory stuff. As I mentioned, this is about the cleanest early B body that I have run across in many years. It does have issues though. Just want to thank y'all sincerely for your help.
John
 
wedgie said:
Thought that I would give an update. After removing the pan, I found that there was a factory two hole filter. I put in a new one, cleaned the pan and painted the outside, New gasket and good to go. I also found a WIX 58964 in line transmission filter is very close to the same dimensions as the original MoPar, Downside is that it uses rubber hose connections. I'm not going to cut the original lines, but will make up steel connections.
Not to do anything other than simulate the factory stuff. As I mentioned, this is about the cleanest early B body that I have run across in many years. It does have issues though. Just want to thank y'all sincerely for your help.
John
Click to expand...

Was the filter a metal screen or was it made out of a fuzzy cloth looking material (Dacron)?
 
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Here's a picture of it on jack stands while I work underneath. Every early B that I have seen and/or built over many years had rusted floors, driver's side cowl, fender dog legs, and quarters. This thing is amazingly solid. I actually believe the odometer reading of about 60K miles. The right quarter obviously has bondo, but I think that was collission repair. The seller included a N.O.S. right quarter panel. He was all in, I guess.
I don't think that the trans fluid had ever been changed before. Shifted perfectly. Factory female fittings on the lines.
Going to take the opportunity to change freeze plugs while its up. Cheap precausion on a 60 year old car.

jacked up.jpg


Polara engine03.jpg
 
Thanks! The best of luck with your project. Very Nice !
 
I posted this before and I will do it again about the ’62, ’63 and some ‘64 cars with the inline trans filter. I believe it is also on the earlier cars. If you still have one on your car get new cooling lines. Take the damned thing off! Put a Dacron filter on with the TWO holes one for the rear pump. If you put on a deep pan DON’T use the adapter unless it’s for the two hole filter! If the inline filter is clogged you can’t keep ATF in the trans. It will pump right out the front pump/converter seal. MAX left me stranded on the side of the road before I figured out the original filter was clogged! It pumped out faster than I could put it in! ATF coming out the front seal has plagued MAX for 30 years! My friend who worked on the trans 5 years ago made new lines and included the filter. And MAX STILL pumped fluid all over the place. I put in new lines and the world is a wonderful place! I have a replacement, non-original, on the shelf, just to have one!
 
wedgie said:
Recently purchased an original '63 Polara with a poly 318 and 727. Just starting to do some maintenance on it. The transmission filter is a "can" that is inline with the trans line, It is original I've seen them before, but now I own one. I haven't dropped the pan, therefore I hope that someone might tell me if there is a regular pickup in the trans that I can swap to a later in pan filter OR better yet, are replacement in line filters available. I checked Rock Auto and they show a typical in pan filter for a '63 but for '62, there is nothing.
I appreciate any replies.
Click to expand...
Being 80 years old I was in my early years before working for Chrysler and as a tech on a one year service we would change the in-line filter. I always turned them inlet side down but never found any dirt as the flat filter in the pan caught it all. I was on the Chrysler Racing support program and they did away so that the flow was not slowed to allow proper cooling of the fluid.When the "069J" converter was made available to all of the racers on the program we always made sure the in line filter was removed and the deep pan used after we converted them to Chrysler "manual" shift automatics.
I checked my inventor,y as I buy out a lot of dealerships on their old parts and I have none, but honestly thought I did. I will keep looking and let you know if I have one. Do yourself a favor and change to the type F ford fluid, it has a different friction additive in it . Also make sure when you change the fluid to open the small inspection cover on the dust shield of the trans and turn the motor until you can see the drain plug in the converter.You will be amazed how much fluid the converter holds.While you have the pan off pull on the lever near the dipstick tube inside the trans,it should move about 3/8". If it has a lot of slop there is a 3/4" nut with a square ended adjusting stud for the front band adjustment. Tighten the stud until there is no movement of the lever in the trans (slightly snug)and then back it off about 1-1/2 turns. If you have an inch pounds torque wrench tighten to 72 inch pounds and then back the stud off 1-1/2 turns. You will see a lot of small crap either on the filter inde or in the pan don't let it alarm you as the band friction material does shed some. If it is more than a table spoon full you might have a problem. If you are confused call me 207 474 6339 my home number I am here all the time. The link that one of the people referred you to was a filter for $195.00 and that is ridiculous. Don't spend that kind of money for one as you can actually do without it and that is why Chrysler stopped using it after 1963.
Dom Rinaldi
 
I really appreciate the replies and advice. I am only 75 years old but still learning from those older as well as those younger than me. I believe at this point that I am not going to use the WIX in line filter, and, will just eliminate it. I changed the in pan filter with the proper 2 hole filter and cleaned everything.
Can anybody show me pictures of the proper routing for the early B body transmission lines? I assume that the bracket on the lower starter mount will be the same but, do the lines run tight to the engine? Any other brackets to secure the lines before going to the radiator?
I am actually enjoying myself on this car. Exactly like the issue that I found on my '65 poly, back in '68, the heat damper in the right manifold was frozen closed. Dropped the exhaust and used my arc welder, turned up, to burn out the flap.
Took the opportunity to replace the six block freeze plugs with brass. Also changed the starter as the original was acting up. Stock replacement rather than mini starter.
Thanks in advance.
John
 
This is a 64 Belvedere 318 poly. Best photos I got.
At the time I was installing TTI headers and their complete exhaust system.
I did a deep pan too.

IMG_1396.jpg


IMG_1410.jpg


IMG_1412.jpg


IMG_1429.jpg
 
Perfect! It looks like I can duplicate easily. Looks like there's no support for the lines after the starter.
Thank you so much.
John
 
It is probably easier to just buy repros, rather than try to bend your own, due to right clearances. You can get them from most of the popular repro businesses.
 
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