Nope, I don't run chokes on any of my old jalopies either.+1 for the no chokes crowd.
Oh wait, I guess I'm the only 1
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Electric choke killing ignition!
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gtxrt
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lol on the wiper motor. not so funny on the coil.
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Guess you missed the spot where he said "if you run no ballast" (like an MSD unit). At that point that entire 12V feed is the same whether it's wiper, key run, key start, coil... etc.
gtxrt
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yes i did thank you.
In the 90's here. Sweating like a pedo outside a primary school.+4 here today....
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For those that wanna know!
Holley electric choke has 12 ohms. Pulled out my cross ram with two Eddies on it and they're about 19. Took the T20 torque bit to the bad one that only reads 2 or 3 ohms and then drilled it apart. There is no resistance wire inside. Just a spring coil and a small disc that is isolated from the main plate, that the bimetalic is mounted to, by thermal paste to add some resistance. I guess the assembler didn't use enough and it shorted out. Now to figure out what it actually is and do some testing. #1 Son appears to have "borrowed" my electronics kit.
Holley electric choke has 12 ohms. Pulled out my cross ram with two Eddies on it and they're about 19. Took the T20 torque bit to the bad one that only reads 2 or 3 ohms and then drilled it apart. There is no resistance wire inside. Just a spring coil and a small disc that is isolated from the main plate, that the bimetalic is mounted to, by thermal paste to add some resistance. I guess the assembler didn't use enough and it shorted out. Now to figure out what it actually is and do some testing. #1 Son appears to have "borrowed" my electronics kit.
I understand the springs function and how temperature makes it work. But what is the element that is creating the heat?
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The copper coil on the positive lead. It has zero resistance, then add the small disc and a thermal paste to give it 15 to 20 ohms resistance from ground and it starts heating up the aluminum disc and bimetalic spring. Best I can figure anyhow...
I'm sure it was heating up fast with 2 ohms!
Weird. I always thought it was like circular element similar to the dash light dimming rheostat.
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What I expect to find as well.. just a weird thing. A coiled spring wire I guess it is actually and give it some thermal paste caused resistance and it heats up.. then the aluminum that the bimetalic disc is attached to and then it turns the choke. Son's not home, so I can't get my paste or my tube of Nuolux he appears to have "borrowed" wanna try them both for a resistance test...
Stuff just looks like heat sink paste.
Stuff just looks like heat sink paste.
Connecting the electric choke lead to the 12V input side of the ballast resistor is EZ...
Just use 1 of these connectors. Available at any automotive, electronic store or Amazon..
Just my $0.02...
Just use 1 of these connectors. Available at any automotive, electronic store or Amazon..
Just my $0.02...
A4GTX
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I always use the wiper park feed.
Danomt
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I have used the wiper main feed on many 1406 edelbrock conversions when customer do not want to fiddle with the holleys no more. When the wipers quit working the fuse is blown and now you look for electric choke problems. Has always been simple. I thank the op for the info.
62 Dart Convertible
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Connecting electric choke to coil side of ballast is insane. More load through ballast resistor = less voltage on coil = less spark.
I still don’t get the use of the wiper motor source… do you mean on engine bay or at fuse box?.
As far I know, there is not a constant power source arriving to wiper motor. Is true when wipers are parked you get constant power there coming from ACC side of the fusebox (with ign switch) but as son you turn on the wipers the power for the parking position is cut. So it means is not constant.
Don’t reinvent the wheel… Ign1 (Run) circuit arriving to ballast (ign switch side) or regulator are the correct points to source it. If double wire field alt, then can be spliced from there too on the run… same circuit. Tipically, blue wire.
As far I know, there is not a constant power source arriving to wiper motor. Is true when wipers are parked you get constant power there coming from ACC side of the fusebox (with ign switch) but as son you turn on the wipers the power for the parking position is cut. So it means is not constant.
Don’t reinvent the wheel… Ign1 (Run) circuit arriving to ballast (ign switch side) or regulator are the correct points to source it. If double wire field alt, then can be spliced from there too on the run… same circuit. Tipically, blue wire.
Polo62
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I hooked mine to the alternatorThanks for posting this. Good to know.
Now if you have an electronic distributor, where you don’t have a ballast resistor, where do you connect the choke?
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I hope not to the output stud, as it's live all the time.
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So an update to this mess and remember on day one I installed a new Mancini ECU and the ballast they sent with same. Paperwork states, "recommended 1 ohm ballast, 0.5 ohm minimum".
I bought a $100 squeeze tube of conductive grease that has 102 ohms per cm resistance and recoated the choke heater assembly. Got the unit up to 5 ohms. Tested it on a battery, it heated and worked. Installed to the car and rewired to the run side of the ballast as everyone recommended.
Car will not start on when cranking via key, but will fire if you let go of the key quickly to the run positon, or jump the starter solenoid with the key in the run position. Unhook electric choke and it starts just fine!
I ordered a brand new Edelbrock choke for a $100 forking dollars, only to find the thing only has 3 ohms just like the one I took off. Unlike the other 4 I have here on carbs that have 12 ohms or more, one 19. I install it hoping for something different, choke works fine... doesn't start when cranking as per above and unhook the choke it starts fine!
Pulling my hair out, and I don't have much left... I swap back to the ballast resistor that I had removed previously and the car starts perfectly with the choke hooked up. WTF...
New ballast has 1.1 ohms resistance, old one has 0.5 ohms. Power draw to the choke heater coil, through that extra 0.6 ohms, while cranking and it and the ECU are getting power via the start circuit vs run appears to be just shy on voltage to make the ECU work.
SO, if you've got one that won't start cranking, but run otherwise... check that ballast. Who would think that 0.6 ohms would make a difference.
I bought a $100 squeeze tube of conductive grease that has 102 ohms per cm resistance and recoated the choke heater assembly. Got the unit up to 5 ohms. Tested it on a battery, it heated and worked. Installed to the car and rewired to the run side of the ballast as everyone recommended.
Car will not start on when cranking via key, but will fire if you let go of the key quickly to the run positon, or jump the starter solenoid with the key in the run position. Unhook electric choke and it starts just fine!
I ordered a brand new Edelbrock choke for a $100 forking dollars, only to find the thing only has 3 ohms just like the one I took off. Unlike the other 4 I have here on carbs that have 12 ohms or more, one 19. I install it hoping for something different, choke works fine... doesn't start when cranking as per above and unhook the choke it starts fine!
Pulling my hair out, and I don't have much left... I swap back to the ballast resistor that I had removed previously and the car starts perfectly with the choke hooked up. WTF...
New ballast has 1.1 ohms resistance, old one has 0.5 ohms. Power draw to the choke heater coil, through that extra 0.6 ohms, while cranking and it and the ECU are getting power via the start circuit vs run appears to be just shy on voltage to make the ECU work.
SO, if you've got one that won't start cranking, but run otherwise... check that ballast. Who would think that 0.6 ohms would make a difference.
What is the voltage at the connection point cranking and not cranking. Sounds to me like your primary voltage is dropping out from another point with high resistance.
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