Electric fuel pump conversion

[Bill Monk]

I have no experience with electric fuel pumps so I need a little assistance here please. the car has a 440 6 bbl. street engine but started out with a 383. It's currently running the stock fuel pump for a 383 but at WOT it can't keep up. I am considering the carter 4070 electric pump.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070/overview/
The questions are:
Do I need a regulator with this pump, the advertised psi is 4-8 so I would think that is right in line with where I need to be and would not need the regulator. If I do have to have one, recommendations?
I know it needs mounted near and preferably below the fuel tank, where are you guys mounting them?
Last question is how are you routing the wiring? Obviously it needs wired to a key on position, what or where did you splice into.

I could just go to a high volume mechanical pump but an electric pump makes a lot of sense to me so help me decide, Thanks

 

[threewood]

I would not use that pump as it shows 1/4" npt inlet and outlets. 72 gph free flow seems low for feeding a 6 pack.
I was down this road not to long ago with an 800cfm carb on a 440. The high flow Edelbrock 1723 mechanical pump with 3/8 nft fittings, 110 gph couldn't keep up. I installed a Holley Black pump (140 gph) and a regulator and have had trouble free fuel delivery ever since. The vane type pumps are noisy though.
I am interested to see what others have to say...

 

[Moparlike]

Bill,
I’m just starting to figure this out as well.... like you, I’ve got a 440 6 BBL.
The advise that I’ve gotten thus far:
1) try to convert to 1/2” line
2) use a regulator with a fuel return, if possible
3) Use a 140 gph or higher pump
It would great to see some pics of the fuel line routing that guys are using...
Good luck!

 

[69 GTX]

3wood it probably helps vapor lock some too.

 

[Bill Monk]

Bill,
I’m just starting to figure this out as well.... like you, I’ve got a 440 6 BBL.
The advise that I’ve gotten thus far:
1) try to convert to 1/2” line
2) use a regulator with a fuel return, if possible
3) Use a 140 gph or higher pump
It would great to see some pics of the fuel line routing that guys are using...
Good luck!

Well, I have already bought new 3/8 line and didn't plan for a fuel return so let's see what everybody comes back with and I'll compile all data and information and pull the trigger

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Well, I've run a Holley blue pump with regulator and it seems to pump enough fuel. I don't have a return line yet, but I'm planning on adding one. I used to run a Carter electric without a regulator (long time ago, can't remember number) & it lasted for 5-6 yrs.

I only have a 3/8" fuel line. My pump is mounted right above & to the side of the differential. I know this is "uphill", but it allowed me to keep the tank/pump line short & protect the pump with the frame. If you have dual exhaust all the way out the back, there's really no room inside the frame rails.

 

[hashmaker]

I would make sure the fuel pump push rod has not worn too much. As it wears the fuel pump stroke gets shorter which will work at lower rpm but show up under load at higher rpm giving the sensation of running out of fuel. I have a 5/16 fuel line stock pump on my 440 6 pack that works great with the new push rod.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Might think about a relay so you don't have run HD wire all over the place. If battery in truck it saves on wire all the more.

 

[oldbee]

Bill I go along with ‘purple’, think I ran Holley w/reg also on a 440,850Holley,5/16 fuel line and to 6500 shift point. Never a problem.

 

[threewood]

3wood it probably helps vapor lock some too.

It absolutely does which is a problem with ethanol blend gas. By going electric, pushing the gas plus no engine heat soak in the pump = cooler fuel.

 

[threewood]

Here is my redneck pump mount made from an exhaust coupler. It is bent and mounts to the pass side fuel tank bracket bolt. Puts it in the correct spot and low enough for siphon effect to take place...

 

[69 GTX]

Improvise, adapt, overcome!

 

[Bill Monk]

Here is my redneck pump mount made from an exhaust coupler. It is bent and mounts to the pass side fuel tank bracket bolt. Puts it in the correct spot and low enough for siphon effect to take place...
View attachment 565822 View attachment 565823 View attachment 565824

awesome, thanks for the pic!

 

[747mopar]

I've been researching and planning an upgrade to electric and here's my suggestion, spend the money once!

There are several things to consider when doing an upgrade to the fuel system some of which are other issues that can be resolved at the same time.

Probably one of the greatest headaches nowdays with our classic cars is that the fuel is no longer designed for a carburated car.. when's the last time you could buy a carburated car? Just like the oil once all cars went to roller lifters they did away with the zdp which is why we now need an additive. Modern fuel is designed to be under pressure and doesn't like sitting idle alongside headers or in a float bowl on top of an engine. Ever have to crank and crank to get one to fire or experience a stumble after a hot start? These are symptoms of fuel being boiled in the lines or boiled out of the bowls.

For me I'll only buy quality parts (likely Areomotive) and will absolutely put a return style regulator in with a return line. Running a return line will keep fuel moving which keeps it cooler and prolongs pump life. Boiling the fuel out of the bowls is another story, you can insulate the carb with a spacer but at least with an electric fuel pump you can turn the key to run and give it a second to refill the bowls which is better than the embarrassment of cranking it.

Do your homework and do it once.

Also a mechanical fuel pump should have no trouble keeping up, I'm running an Edebrock pump on my 456 which pulls strong beyod 6,000 rpm.

 

[moparedtn]

Some of y'all remember when I went through all this and discovered the fuel pump pushrod worn a bunch?
I bought a Comp Cams pushrod and it did the same thing in the previous engine; then I bought one from Mancini that has the supposed hardened bronze tip that resists wear.
Yeah, well, this engine with a totally different cam than before is apparently doing the same thing - unless, of course, the fancy "reproduction hemi" Carter fuel pump I fetched from Mancini isn't cutting the mustard.
Reason I say this is because my cute little fuel pressure gauge on the side of the carb is reading below 5psi again??
4psi seems to be the minimum on it right now.
Yes, that Carter has 1/4" inlet and outlet, but at the least I haven't noticed any nosing over of the car when I'm running it hard like it's starving.

 

[WileE]

Holley gerotor type pump. It's quieter than the others.

 

[Bill Monk]

I've been researching and planning an upgrade to electric and here's my suggestion, spend the money once!

There are several things to consider when doing an upgrade to the fuel system some of which are other issues that can be resolved at the same time.

Probably one of the greatest headaches nowdays with our classic cars is that the fuel is no longer designed for a carburated car.. when's the last time you could buy a carburated car? Just like the oil once all cars went to roller lifters they did away with the zdp which is why we now need an additive. Modern fuel is designed to be under pressure and doesn't like sitting idle alongside headers or in a float bowl on top of an engine. Ever have to crank and crank to get one to fire or experience a stumble after a hot start? These are symptoms of fuel being boiled in the lines or boiled out of the bowls.

For me I'll only buy quality parts (likely Areomotive) and will absolutely put a return style regulator in with a return line. Running a return line will keep fuel moving which keeps it cooler and prolongs pump life. Boiling the fuel out of the bowls is another story, you can insulate the carb with a spacer but at least with an electric fuel pump you can turn the key to run and give it a second to refill the bowls which is better than the embarrassment of cranking it.

Do your homework and do it once.

Also a mechanical fuel pump should have no trouble keeping up, I'm running an Edebrock pump on my 456 which pulls strong beyod 6,000 rpm.

Thanks for the input guys, that's what I was looking for and yeah, I don't want to do this twice so keep the feedback coming and I'll keep digging into it. It's looking like that Carter isn't going to cut it. I originally started leaning that way because all the reviews are good, some of the others are all over the map, holleys in particular.

 

[Qbrozen]

Mine is pretty much in the same location as threewood's. I used a steel cable instead of a bracket, so even more redneck. Ha.
As for the wire, I ran it along the frame and connected to the coil.

 

[383MovingViolation]

I've been researching and planning an upgrade to electric and here's my suggestion, spend the money once!

There are several things to consider when doing an upgrade to the fuel system some of which are other issues that can be resolved at the same time.

Probably one of the greatest headaches nowdays with our classic cars is that the fuel is no longer designed for a carburated car.. when's the last time you could buy a carburated car? Just like the oil once all cars went to roller lifters they did away with the zdp which is why we now need an additive. Modern fuel is designed to be under pressure and doesn't like sitting idle alongside headers or in a float bowl on top of an engine. Ever have to crank and crank to get one to fire or experience a stumble after a hot start? These are symptoms of fuel being boiled in the lines or boiled out of the bowls.

For me I'll only buy quality parts (likely Areomotive) and will absolutely put a return style regulator in with a return line. Running a return line will keep fuel moving which keeps it cooler and prolongs pump life. Boiling the fuel out of the bowls is another story, you can insulate the carb with a spacer but at least with an electric fuel pump you can turn the key to run and give it a second to refill the bowls which is better than the embarrassment of cranking it.

Do your homework and do it once.

Also a mechanical fuel pump should have no trouble keeping up, I'm running an Edebrock pump on my 456 which pulls strong beyod 6,000 rpm.

What model Areomotive would you suggest ? There are many. Thanks

 

[oldbee]

Haven’t looked myself but for the street only, probably the cheapest ones. If ,maybe’ racing on the horizon then go higher up.