Electrical Issue....NEED HELP!!

[1carlover]

Yeah
This stuff happens ALL the time
Everyone here has seen this stuff
Remember the old adage: "FM" means Fuc___ing magic?
1. we know you are NOT an idiot...
2. Grounding circuit is probably the cause
3. as lebshiff21 mentioned, LEDs are subject to finicky performance, especially Chineese made

I would do this for my first step:
1. Get to the dimmer switch, it has input lead and output lead
2. Take multimeter and "nick" input lead to dimmer switch...take DC voltage reading insuring "Input Voltage" is present
3. Then "nick" output" lead, verify output voltage

In electrical troubleshooting..there are simple methods developed to find the issue
This would essentially be a part of the "Half Split" method.
Divide circuit in half...check front portion and then check back portion

IF...if you have power coming into the dimmer switch...and no DC power coming out of dimmer switch...we can come to a conclusion.

Let us know

The problem is not with the floor dimmer which works just fine. The problem is with the dash rheostat that dims and brightens the dash lights. I used 4 leds and new sockets for dash lights but dash was bench tested before it was installed. The problem is the dash lights will work for a couple of days then they stop working and just blow the instrument fuse. I have replaced that fuse over a dozen times and have no idea what we did to get the dash lights working when they did work.

 

[lebshiff21]

Have you tried regular non-LED bulbs?

 

[1carlover]

Have you tried regular non-LED bulbs?

Yes I have but it made no difference.

 

[1carlover]

Yeah
This stuff happens ALL the time
Everyone here has seen this stuff
Remember the old adage: "FM" means Fuc___ing magic?
1. we know you are NOT an idiot...
2. Grounding circuit is probably the cause
3. as lebshiff21 mentioned, LEDs are subject to finicky performance, especially Chineese made

I would do this for my first step:
1. Get to the dimmer switch, it has input lead and output lead
2. Take multimeter and "nick" input lead to dimmer switch...take DC voltage reading insuring "Input Voltage" is present
3. Then "nick" output" lead, verify output voltage

In electrical troubleshooting..there are simple methods developed to find the issue
This would essentially be a part of the "Half Split" method.
Divide circuit in half...check front portion and then check back portion

IF...if you have power coming into the dimmer switch...and no DC power coming out of dimmer switch...we can come to a conclusion.

Let us know

 

[1carlover]

Thanks for your input. Im going to have a problem testing the output at the dimmer because it blows the fuse when I turn the rheostat on for the dash lights. The dash lights have actually not blown the fuse and worked perfectly while rotating the dimmer switch for short periods of time but then just as quickly its lights out, another blown fuse and I still don't know why.

 

[Bold & Old]

my 2 cents worth......

I am building a 67 R/T also and after I tore out my main under the dash harness a couple weeks ago there were a lot of potential obvious fire issues showing.

I was told the original dash harness had design flaws built in originally between the firewall inner and outer junction terminal..

I bought a new Harness from Yearone.

Yesterday I compared it to my old harness to the new....a perfect a exact match minus all the semi burnt wires in between.......... that were all a potential fire hazard waiting to happen.

I could see 6 wires including the 2 big 12 gauge hot wires leading off the firewall terminal (black & red) that were bare wires and got very hot partial melting the firewall junction block at some point in its life.

Jerry Hall on b bodies told me he repairs his own original harness for a lot less $$.

The old system is over 50 years old.

I would consider one of those 2 wiring options.

Good Luck Sir...

 

[1carlover]

my 2 cents worth......

I am building a 67 R/T also and after I tore out my main under the dash harness a couple weeks ago there were a lot of potential obvious fire issues showing.

I was told the original dash harness had design flaws built in originally between the firewall inner and outer junction terminal..

I bought a new Harness from Yearone.

Yesterday I compared it to my old harness to the new....a perfect a exact match minus all the semi burnt wires in between.......... that were all a potential fire hazard waiting to happen.

I could see 6 wires including the 2 big 12 gauge hot wires leading off the firewall terminal (black & red) that were bare wires and got very hot partial melting the firewall junction block at some point in its life.

Jerry Hall on b bodies told me he repairs his own original harness for a lot less $$.

The old system is over 50 years old.

I would consider one of those 2 wiring options.

Good Luck Sir...

Thanks for the feedback. I have also taken the step of replacing an original 67 Coronet harness with a repro M&H unit that I believed was the solution for the hidden gremlin somewhere in the original. I was really disappointed when I found the same issue occurred with the new harness installed.

 

[Bold & Old]

Thanks for the feedback. I have also taken the step of replacing an original 67 Coronet harness with a repro M&H unit that I believed was the solution for the hidden gremlin somewhere in the original. I was really disappointed when I found the same issue occurred with the new harness installed.

The new harness will last forever as far as you are concern.

I also was concerned but that is Mopar correct correct.......?

They could have made a beefed up wiring version for a safer harness.

I think it would have sold well too...

Make sure you use plenty of dialect grease in all your wiring connections...

Carry a bottle of water in-case any Mopar wiring gremlins show up

 

[Bold & Old]

America is seeing a lot of failures from new LED systems coming in from China
Good point!

i bought a set of LEDs for my 67 Coronet...... that have not been installed yet.

Would you advise using only standard issue from Mopar bulbs?

i would like to have better lighting in the dash... Mike

 

[1carlover]

i bought a set of LEDs for my 67 Coronet...... that have not been installed yet.

Would you advise using only standard issue from Mopar bulbs?

i would like to have better lighting in the dash... Mike

I installed LEDs and new sockets and liked the results. The dash is brighter and therefore easier to see with these old eyes. Before I switched bulbs I checked on this site to find the best bulb to use then bench bench tested to make sure everything worked correctly.

 

[Bold & Old]

I read several topics on the subject here on b bodies and your right these old eyes arnt what they use to be.

i have all new wring for my 67 coronet so just do not want to do something that will not work well.

i have some cheap chinesium bulbs that I just tossed... and I was directed to this web site by one of the members.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/veh...cob-led-t3-25-miniature-wedge-base-135-lumens

They are more expensive but no problem.... should I use different fuses like what the web site sells or am I OK with my my repo fuses?

what color did you use?

is to bright to much?

Thank you for your thoughts... Mike

 

[Jc cooper]

Thanks for the feedback. I have also taken the step of replacing an original 67 Coronet harness with a repro M&H unit that I believed was the solution for the hidden gremlin somewhere in the original. I was really disappointed when I found the same issue occurred with the new harness installed.

If I may step in for a moment, Having recently completed a total ground up on a 67 Gtx, always remember on These systems , it’s all about your grounding! The better dash as well as other areas of your are grounded, the happier you can be ! Thank You , JC

 

[Bold & Old]

If I may step in for a moment, Having recently completed a total ground up on a 67 Gtx, always remember on These systems , it’s all about your grounding! The better dash as well as other areas of your are grounded, the happier you can be ! Thank You , JC

Oh.....You are so right JC... including the engine too....

Thank you for helping to make b bodies the best!

 

[1carlover]

If I may step in for a moment, Having recently completed a total ground up on a 67 Gtx, always remember on These systems , it’s all about your grounding! The better dash as well as other areas of your are grounded, the happier you can be ! Thank You , JC

I totally agree with your statement. The problem Im having is with an extra ground wire added from the gauge housing to the body. My first B was a 67 gtx and I love em.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

My 67 Coronet r/t with console still has no dash lights. I have gotten some good leads here on FBBO in trouble shooting the problem but after months of trying, I still haven't found the cause. I have no dash lights when the headlights are switched on. Has anyone in 66-67 b body had this problem and what did you find? I have seen posts for 68-69 cars with this problem but nothing for 67. Does anyone have a sketch or description for the wiring contacts for a 67 headlight switch? All other dash functions work as they should on my car as me and several others have checked for low voltage or short to ground issues but still no dash lights. The only parts that haven't been replaced are the neutral safety switch in the console and the console harness but no issues with that circuit. Any additional help would be much appreciated.

I have a 67 Charger which I am restoring. I have no dash lights when the headlights are on. I have the electrical diagram and have indentified all of the color wires. I have spent hours trying to get the lights to work. I set it aside for the last 6 months and today went at it with my test light to see which wires have power. What I found was interestingnly 2 wires with male terminals have power. The double pink wires for my glovebox light has power(with the ignition key off) and there is a red wire (see attached photo) with a black male terminal (J1) that comes from the ignition switch ( see attached diagram) that has power when I turn the ignition key. I have no power at the power pack (see attached photo).

My question is this: the electrical diagram shows the red wire conecting to a cluster that has 3 black wires and one yellow ( see highlighted diagram). I am assuming that this red wire will power up everything if I can figure out where to connect it. Does anyone know where I am supposed to connect this red wire so when I trun the enguine on it will power up my power pack and hopefully mi dssh lights?

I look forwrad to anyone's suggestions.