Electrical issues, need help!

[robertheath]

When I close the doors the dome light dims and the accessory light on the underside of the dash comes on. This happens when the car is off or on. In addition, the temp and fuel gauges aren't working. Both gauges are on the left side of the gauge cluster. The speedo and the gauges on the right side of the cluster both work fine. I'm not sure if these two issues are related but any help would be greatly appreciated.

The gauge cluster has two circuit boards, one for the left, and one for the right. I've tried multiple circuit boards on the left side and that doesn't seem to be the issue. Does the left circuit board need a separate ground? The right circuit board is grounded through the main wiring harness.

 

[zdillinger]

So, it is basically doing the exact opposite of what it should be doing, i.e. the lights should turn on when you open the door, not when you close it? Is that an accurate statement?

 

[tpodwdog]

what car are we talking about here>>>????? year make and model please!

 

[robertheath]

The dome light almost goes off like it should, but the accessory light under the dash seems to work the opposite from the way it should. I assume the accessory light should come on when the door is open and off when it's closed. The car is a 1967 Plymouth Belvedere II. Two door with a 318.

 

[tpodwdog]

if this just started doing this recently....try this.... DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST !

pull out the door switches ( the little push button thingy in the door jamb ) ...all of them
look at them,,,,inspect them....THEN CLEAN THEM .

make sure the threads are clean ( where it screws in...this is the ground)
make sure the connections are not corroded

put them back in THEN RECONNECT THE BATTERY . . if that dont fix it...you have a bleed over coming from a power source someplace directly from the battery ( car on or off you said ) check the fuse box and make sure no 2 hot wires are touching eachother.....get out the test light !

the courtesy lights work on direct power directly from the battery coming DIRECTLY from the fuse box ( working correctly they will function with the key on ...or the key off )

 

[robertheath]

Any ideas about the gauge cluster issue? I'm going to try running a ground from the back of the left side of the cluster when I get home but beyond that I'm stumped.

 

[67 coronet]

Any ideas about the gauge cluster issue? I'm going to try running a ground from the back of the left side of the cluster when I get home but beyond that I'm stumped.

that is a good place to start.it has to be grounded somehow.perhaps the ground broke inside the circuit board leading across to the other side.that could be why only one side has a problem.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

aren't the boards mounted to the cluster housing? The cluster mounting screws serve as a ground to the chassis via the mounting frame. Sounds like two different problems, door switches going bad and cluster ground check the screws even if one is missing it could cause issues.
It almost sounds like the voltage limiter on the cluster is going out. Check out the wiring details on these links

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BelvedereA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BelvedereB.JPG

 

[b-body-bob]

if that dont fix it...you have a bleed over coming from a power source someplace directly from the battery ( car on or off you said ) check the fuse box and make sure no 2 hot wires are touching eachother.....get out the test light !

Seems like something would have to be providing ground to the dome light since it works on a ground switch principle. If the car in question is wired like a 69 or 70 b-body, the dome light will have pink and yellow wires running to it, and the pink wire is always hot. For sure ground problems can cause all sorts of weird stuff to happen.

 

[Ron 73]

Yep, grounds or lack of (loose/dirty) cause a lot of gremlins!

 

[Grabinov911]

Gauges

In addition, the temp and fuel gauges aren't working. Both gauges are on the left side of the gauge cluster. The speedo and the gauges on the right side of the cluster both work fine.

Robert I have the same gauge problem and I have tried nearly everything. In addition I have replaced the voltage limiter in the dash, but to no effect.

Although it hasn't helped me, try this: Ground the wire from your temperature gauge at the engine block end. You can do this by simply putting a stripped wire into the connector and touching it to a ground. Get in the car and MOMENTARILY turn the key to the on position. Don't hold it too long as you are sending the full regulated voltage to the gauge and it is not meant to handle this for long, as it is usually limited further by the sender in the block.

With the key on, the gauge should move slowly all the way to the hot side of the gauge. If this happens, then your gauge is working, and you are in the same condition I am in - in other words, the gauge works, the wiring works, but the gauge will still not read the temperature of the engine!

I am hoping you get yours fixed, and your resolution helps me with mine!