Electrical issues

[junkpile]

Had a short in my main engine harness for a 440 with electronic ignition. While trouble shooting the problem I replaced the voltage regulator, & orange box until I discovered the wiring short. I had a new harness as a back up so I installed it. car started and worked fine. However I had replaced the orange box with a chrome "race use" one I had in the trunk for emergency's. The next day I drove the car to a show and on the way it started stalling and backfiring, would not stay running unless you held the throttle open. At the show I borrowed a spare orange box from a friend and it still would not run, but he went and got a new distributor cap and rotor button for the car and it ran great all the way home.

Could the hotter "race box" messed up the cap? it showed wear but nothing that was fried.

later on the way home after 20 miles the car stalled in front of the house and would not refire till it cooled down, Like it had a hot fuel issue. the fuel line had no previous issues (nylon braided stuff) I am wondering if this could be related to the above issue but I have not replaced the plugs as of yet after this happened. waiting for my new orange box and voltage regulator and coil to come. This way I can change it all at once. I had to give all the borrowed stuff back to my mopar friends, I love how mopar guys stick together and help out.

any advice on the cap issue and stalling let me know. As a further note after leaving the show, drove it in heavy traffic (stop and go with lights) for 5 miles then interstate home before stalling started. This was strange because car has always ran great even on a drive to Nashville from Atlanta. Carb was not touched in any way.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Chrome race box as stated in the Direct Connection and Mopar Performance Engine Manual is for 'race use only'. Usually, it is the Chrome box itself that burns out as it gets very hot for daily driving. It was built to keep up with 6500-7000RPM race Wedges and Hemi's ignition/spark demand at high RPM. I use a fully MSD ignition system (ignition box/coil) with a factory distributor and it runs great. I would stick with the Orange box for now as it has been proven for decades for reliable performance. Not sure if this helps, but, it could just be that old cap and rotor you had on their just had seen its last days..

 

[junkpile]

Chrome race box as stated in the Direct Connection and Mopar Performance Engine Manual is for 'race use only'. Usually, it is the Chrome box itself that burns out as it gets very hot for daily driving. It was built to keep up with 6500-7000RPM race Wedges and Hemi's ignition/spark demand at high RPM. I use a fully MSD ignition system (ignition box/coil) with a factory distributor and it runs great. I would stick with the Orange box for now as it has been proven for decades for reliable performance. Not sure if this helps, but, it could just be that old cap and rotor you had on their just had seen its last days..

Thanks it does help. I have never had a cap and rotor cause that much trouble so quickly in the past but I guess anything is possible when you have a short in the wiring. At least all the new components and wiring will freshen thing up.

 

[Gpuller]

The coil could possibly be a problem too. I had one that acted like that when it got hot.

 

[Budnicks]

I must respectfully disagree... Chrysler Electronic Ignition {CEI} The Mopar Performance or Direct Connection Super Gold ECU "is for race only" *P4120600 & only for limited periods of about a 1/2 hour continuous running time... you need a specific coil too #P3690560, up-to 12,000rpm... MP ECU Orange box *P4120505 good to 6000rpm... But the Chrome Box is FINE/OK for street use, to quote the Mopar Performance Catalog "item D. Chrome Electronic Control Unit... For a hotter spark, use this High-Performance Chrome Electronic Control Unit... For general high-performance use up to & through 8000rpm... *P4120534 Chrome ECU (Hemi, Big Block, Small Block)" I've used them for 30+ years, both Direct Connection & MP versions, on various cars, driving on the street, with no issues, I now use a MSD Blaster II coil, with my MP CEI ECU Chrome Box... If that helps any... I would think it was the coil possibly, a bad ground possibly, the CEI ECU box of any color, needs to be grounded well too or some other issue, then just the using MP Chrome control box... my $0.02 cents, good luck, I hope this helps with any confusion...

 

[junkpile]

I must respectfully disagree... Chrysler Electronic Ignition {CEI} The Mopar Performance or Direct Connection Super Gold ECU "is for race only" *P4120600 & only for limited periods of about a 1/2 hour continuous running time... you need a specific coil too #P3690560, up-to 12,000rpm... MP ECU Orange box *P4120505 good to 6000rpm... But the Chrome Box is FINE/OK for street use, to quote the Mopar Performance Catalog "item D. Chrome Electronic Control Unit... For a hotter spark, use this High-Performance Chrome Electronic Control Unit... For general high-performance use up to & through 8000rpm... *P4120534 Chrome ECU (Hemi, Big Block, Small Block)" I've used them for 30+ years, both Direct Connection & MP versions, on various cars, driving on the street, with no issues, I now use a MSD Blaster II coil, with my MP CEI ECU Chrome Box... If that helps any... I would think it was the coil possibly, a bad ground possibly, the CEI ECU box of any color, needs to be grounded well too or some other issue, then just the using MP Chrome control box... my $0.02 cents, good luck, I hope this helps with any confusion...

Thanks for all the information. I have the all new harness in place, just got my new orange box and voltage regulator, and a new coil. After making sure all grounds were good and everything was connected, all seem well, car started easily and ran fine. I do have an issue with vapor lock since I switched from braided stainless steel fuel line to the black nylon stuff so I am changing that back to the way I had it before (no issues with vapor lock then.). As for the electrical the only real thing left is a change of plugs and wires to ensure all is new. I am hoping this will fix all the problems after the harness shorting out. I am concerned about the cap and rotor button never had one fail that fast on the road before. I will keep you informed of any further developments, thanks for the advice

 

[ilm65]

ditto!!!

the coil could possibly be a problem too. I had one that acted like that when it got hot.