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Electricians in the house? Copper vs AL exterior commercial

Feeding down can be just as dangerous. I too have seen what happens when a pull gets away from you. 5' spools bounding all over the room after the last of the wire came flying off. Couple guys got banged up pretty bad on that one.
 
I learned a cool trick at work that I use often now when running long conduit runs. I had ran a ton of rigid in preparation for an install when the plant manager came by and asked why I didn't use compressed air vs a snake... he explained and I seldomly ever use a snake now. Takes a little practice but I've blown pull strings threw 200ft of rigid in seconds using a simple blow gun.
Tie a plastic bag to your string and use a shop vac on the other side. Works awesome.
 
We used shop vacs and mice or rats depending on conduit size.
 
Takes a little practice but I've blown pull strings threw 200ft of rigid in seconds using a simple blow gun.

We always use a shop vac at the far end and a sandwich baggie tied to the pullstring. The bonus is clean as a whistle, gets any potential chips out, and zoom, no blowing crap in eye. Guess its the same really, suck or blow lol.
 
If the sub is going inside just make sure your local codes are followed.

Anything to watch out for on this?

I've installed exterior style panels on interior walls in factories and commercial buildings "back in the day".

I was just planning to put an LB into the building and put the panel on the other side of the wall.

There is an up offset right before the panel, which I'll keep as I assume it's for drip control.
 
Best to seek local expertise. Our codes may differ somewhat, but usually the main concerns are fusing, shut off ability, bonding to ground and protection of the feeders.
 
We always fed down....too dangerous puling up with that ammount of weight....had two people on each reel, chocks at first few j boxes.
Not so bad when going through a conduit or pipework....but damn dangerous just feeding a cable down hill like that. One mistake and the weight of cable will pull any amount of men over the edge. I have seen cable drums pick up speed like that and get away on guys running cable.
I hear what you are saying, and it makes sense in that situation.... :thumbsup:
 
We run a different system over here to you guys, so I am not going to tell you what to do....I will however share my experienced opinion. We use the MEN system here - Multiple earthed Neutral, which means that every installation has it's own main earth (ground) point - rod or bare copper laying in a trench, and the main earth is tied via an MEM Link at the main switchboard....not the Meterbox. This link can be removed for performing a variety of tests. All the points along the National grid use this main earth system, so effectively, the entire country has a grid tie to earth. Particularly useful to determine if a grid supply transformer is at fault rather than your own installation ( I had that happen once) We also have 230Volts at 50Hz for single phase and 400Volts for 3-phase. So our cable sizing is basically half of what the USA sizing is, for the same current carrying effect. This makes for smaller switch-gear and easier installation.

In my experiences of Aluminium cable (we spell it different also) it is seldom used in domestic situations. It is chiefly used where a run of cable is far in excess of the norm. Example was a house I wired about 10 years ago - I needed a 60Amp 3-phase supply. The run was approx 70 meters (77 yards - or 230 feet) I used Aluminium for the bulk of the run and tailed down the last 3 feet at each end. This was done mainly as the cost of Copper the entire run was roughly $10k vs around $3K. The only thing was, instead of running a 4-core 25mm copper cable, I had to run a 4-core 70mm Aluminium cable....so three times the size, as the current carrying capacity is less in Aluminium for the equivalent size in Copper. Way cheaper, but heavier to handle and dress the cable. The trench work was in mixed material - gravel, soil and builders droppings, so the 25 metre run was encased in conduit. Once inside the house it was simply strapped to the framework all the way to the switchboard. Tailing down meant I had to use special Aluminium to Copper barrier links with compound inside the Aluminum side....and resin filled heatshrink, boots and overall sleeving into the underground pit outside - and into the meterbox upstairs. From the meterbox was just a short run of Copper cables.
Having a friendly Inspector and a capable apprentice on that job made for a magical install - apparently it was the first time a real Estate Agent had been able to go to a house and turn everything on, and not trip a breaker to take the photos.

IMHO, for a short run like this ...I would run Copper - for nothing more than making life easier on the job. Nothing wrong with Aluminium, it's just more work, and more care on the job is required.
It's not always about price. :thumbsup:
 
I'm currently pricing out just doing my 30A #10 compressor run and my 2x 20A recep runs separately.

As much as I would love having the sub panel inside and not having to walk 140% of the building length if I ever trip a breaker or to do any work...

I really don't want to mess with all that (to me) big gauge AL wire and then pay for the #6 copper.

I can't believe how much rain tight compression fittings have gone up-

$6 ea for 1/2" and $8 ea for 3/4"

That's double the price of a 10' stick of conduit.
 
@YY1. Did you go to an electrical supply house or a Home Depot type store? You should be able to get everything you need for less than $150....
RT fittings shouldn't be more than a few bucks, 60 2p breakers are cheap so are the sub panels 20' x3 #6 #10 and shouldnt be that expensive...
If you lived in Cali or NYC maybe...but I wouldn't think it would be that high in Fla...
Also if you are tripping breakers you may need to upsize your circuits (wire) if they are long runs
 
Already have a panel, already have a bucket full of breakers.

It's cost and labor between moving the panel, adding 15-17' of rain tight 1" EMT and fittings plus removing 22' of #4 AL, then buying and running 35-37' #6 copper and then two #12 branch circuits plus a short 240V #10 compressor circuit, or

a 25' #10 compressor circuit and the 2 25' (plus the actual runs to the receps) #12 recep circuits (the 25' is just to get them from the sub to the inside if I don't move the sub)

If I move the sub panel, the all the other work is inside the building with no more walking more than the length of the building to do any more new work plus the compressor circuit would be about 3 feet or less.

If I just pipe and run the compressor feed and then the recep circuits, it's less hassle pulling out all that recently paid for #4, and no paying for #6 or 25' of #10.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 
If you run all the circuits in one conduit, you may have to derate the ampacities or upsize the wiring.
Grouping factor. At last something I can comprehend. :D
 
Grouping factor. At last something I can comprehend. :D
We call them derating factors, more than 3 current carrying conductors is where it starts...what about there in NZ?
 
We call them derating factors, more than 3 current carrying conductors is where it starts...what about there in NZ?
It goes on percentage of cross sectional area filled along the length of a conduit.....combined with current drawn.
 
Why not just use schedule 40 pvc the cost is way cheaper.
 
I thought about running my 2 #10 along with my 4 #12 (black/red/neutral/ground)

But might be a tough pull in 3/4 pipe. It's right on the line for 1/2" and may be one conductor over. It's kind of gray when mixing sizes. Definitely a tough pull in 1/2" at max capacity.

Pull that to a breakout 5" box on the inside, then split out the three circuits (240/120/120)

The 1" EMT replaced a PVC run that was sagging and coming apart.

NOT pretty. Might consider it though.

I also have about 18' x 4 of #6 copper that was pulled out of that PVC run.

I may just go ahead and get some PVC and use that #6 as a temporary run for the compressor, until I settle on a definitive plan for everything.

18' is going to put it right at the edge of the inside corner of the unit it needs to be in.

...and it's 2x overkill on the wire size.

If only 18' was long enough for my sub panel feed.
 
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