Engine break in "not so much"

[747mopar]

It's really a matter of what works for you. IMO, teflon tape doesn't work as well as RTV on standard bolts because a standard bolt's threads are much farther apart and much taller than pipe threads. That means that the teflon tape will fall all the way into the grooves between the threads and it will take more tape to make the bolt seal. I've even seen cases where teflon tape on a bolt caused something to crack as a result of the tape on the bolt. Use what works for you. Nobody's arguing or callin anybody out. I'm simply stating what works best for me and why, just like everybody else.

And as for the Hemi, with my wife loosing her job on Valentine's Day and me loosing mine next Friday, I seriously doubt I'll get to keep it.

That really sucks, hope something comes up so you can keep it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks, so do I, but that's how it goes sometimes.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Never in my life have I had luck with teflon tape on standard bolt threads........because it's not made for them. You have to put way too much tape on a standard thread bolt to get it to seal. Teflon tape is strictly made for pipe threads whose pitch is really close. That said, I have had the best results with Permatex high temp red. Make sure the holes are clean and DRY, install the studs and let them dry 24 solid hours. Problem solved. Oh and only the two end holes on each head go through to the water jacket. On the early Hemis, there are MANY holes on the heads that go into the water jacket or into the valve cover area. You can bet your *** I ain't doin that but ONCE. Permatex is what I will use.

I'm with Rusty on this one. TT can work but the Permatex will work.

Getting the threads dry at this point is going to be a little tricky (I'd pull the t-stat and lower hose and drain the block, then compressed air in the holes) but it'll be worth the effort.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

This is what you need to coat the threads with.


http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...sealants/permatex--pipe-joint-compound-detail

 

[MarPar]

^^^^that's what i've always used!

 

[747mopar]

Hard to believe there's 2 pages for leaky bolts. I slipped out yesterday while the kids were playing and got it taken care of. Because I have Hooker Super Comps I had to take all of the bolts out (there is one bolt on each side that is right up against the tube) everyone appeared to be wet. I had already opened the radiator petcock the night before so it was already drained, I spayed carb and choke cleaner in the holes and on the bolt threads then dried with compressed air. I had the red RTV laying around that Rusty mentioned so I tried it "walla" fired it back up tonight "no leaks". I'm sure other sealants mentioned might work as well but I had the RTV and it worked. Has anybody ever used header wrap? Oh my does that crap smoke and smoke and smoke and "well" I had to open my paint booth exhaust fan and all the doors "it's horrible". Anyways, I might have 20 minutes on it now, the temp kept climbing until I shut it down at 200. I don't have an adiquit fan on it, I've been having trouble finding a fan that will fit in the 3" that I have, now I no which one won't work. I put my big fan in front of the grill and took care of that (165) which is the thermostat I have in it. So with the leaked antifreeze and header wrap finally burned off to where I could actually stand to be near it I started inspecting and noticed a faint tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover and shut it down again. I set the preload at .030" if I remember correctly but didn't like the way the lifters felt (you could compress them easily) so I'm hoping resetting them will cure that. I used Valvoline 10w 30 with Lucas break in oil additive (for flat tappet cams). Now the good news, I've said it before but man does this motor light up right now, I don't know that I've ever had a motor with this snappy of a throttle response. The carb is an Ebay 870 Holley Avenger that was supposed to only have 500 miles on it (looks new), I haven't adjusted anything yet but it is a little rich at idle. I may have to rethink my mufflers though cause with the exhaust ran back to the rear seat it still sounds like straight headers and I'm not to confident that what I had planned will be enough. This thing sounds like a monster.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I have never personally used header wrap, but all I have read or heard about it is that it hols moisture and causes headers to rust prematurely. But again, no direct experience.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I have never personally used header wrap, but all I have read or heard about it is that it hols moisture and causes headers to rust prematurely. But again, no direct experience.

Our experience with header wrap on a Harley, is that it holds heat inside the exhaust pipes and therefor gives off less heat. . It does hold moisture which dry's up on engine start up , and so it makes pipes rusty. JMO.........................MO

 

[747mopar]

Yeah, I'd heard that it causes rust but a hate nasty looking headers and can't afford ceramic or stainless. It looks nice and by the time it rust the car will be well past done where I can afford a good set of stainless headers.

 

[Garys1969RR]

My header bolts all leaked water, and I had studs in the 2 ends which did 'nt leak. All my bolt holes on the 915 heads go into the water jackets, and they leaked water out. Now I've put teflon tape on the 8 remaining bolts, and will see how that works.

- - - Updated - - -

It looks as if all my header bolts do go into the water jacket.