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Engine breather kits?

392hemix

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I have a freshly built 1968 440 hp2 engine. it has original 906 heads and stock rotating assy. its got a solid lifter mopar 528 lift cam, and a single plane weind single plane intake. I am running a 850 qucik fuel carb, w/no choke horn, and its got a 8qrt pan with a windage tray, i also have the indy cast valve covers. My first problem is this one, #6&8 plugs are comin up very oily, and i have a single pcv valve and breather, but the tube is getting a little oil in it and i think that its giving me a rich conditon. What set up do you guys run for crank case ventalation or evacuation with these indy valve covers?....
 
I don't have Indy covers but I run a crankcase evac system and it works great. I did not have enough vac. with the cam to run a pcv system. It made a big difference as far as crankcase back pressure and it seems to run smoother if that is possible.
 
I had the same problem with a 520 stroker and it had the best of them fooled we all though it was the pcv because it had oil in the return pipe,but it was weeping through the inlet side of the aluminium heads they were pourus.You probably wont have that problem with steel heads. Anyway just to be shore I got rid of the pcv and just used 2 breathers not high tech but it works.Try that if you like and take it a good thrash then check the plugs if clean,then let it idle for 10 minutes then check plugs if oily problem is somewhere else.....anyway thats what I would do have fun!!!!!!!!
 
Jegs sells them. They are two nipples with check valves you weld into the collector of your headers. The breathers in the valve covers are vented through rubber hoses to the nipples and it takes the pressure out of the engine. The check valves open when you are driving and sucks the pressure down in the engine. That my friend is a crankcase evac system.
 
Well, i dont think its the pcv valve, i unhooked it today, put fresh plugs in, and i still have 6&8 cylinders coming up oiled down. So what do you guys think? they have perfect compression. So my only guess is that the vally pan is leaking oil into the intake runners? i have seen a little bit of the sealent from the intake leaking, but ther is no vacume leak. has anyone had that issue?
 
Well, it's quick and easy to pop the intake off a big block, so I think I'd pull those 8 bolts and check it out. If it looks like it's leaking, then I'd pull the valley pan, set the intake on the heads (after cleaning all the surfaces) and see if I could measure a gap with flat feeler gauges. Assuming things aren't flush all over, then you'll either have to have the intake milled or try to use the paper gaskets as well as the valley pan. But it's usually difficult to fit an intake with that much gasket material in there.
 
69 runner that sounds like the go try that first but if it isnt the problem it will be the heads.


Also compression test will not show if it is the heads because mine leaked in the top of the intake runners where the oil sits.

If it is not the intake this is how you test the heads...

Pull all rocker gear off so valves seal,Remove carb make a plate to go over carb hole with air fitting .Pressurise cylinders with 100 psi, spray can of wd 40 over top of head over runners they will bubble if air leak.

Without removing head this problem can be can be fixed with epoxy .....proberly not if a crack.
My symtems were car had tunning issues at idle, but run good under load if its the heads,car performed well on dyno also.
 
Don't think the heads will be porous being steel. Could simply be bad guides and/or broken valve seals.
 
well, that would piss me off if there is a crack in the head, or a bad valve seal or guide This engine is brandy new fresh, with new guides, and everything magnafluxed. the heads were done from a guy who worked on kyle pettys team. and then re-checked after i had them @ the place where the engine was built. So i think i am going to get the shop that built it to look @ it and fix it for free. this engines only got 10 dyno pulls and about 30 miles on it, so it should be perfect. I spent alot of money on it and want them to take care of it. because it was nothing that i did installing it in the car. @ this point i am getting angry with the builder, so i hope he makes it right. Time is money, and if i had the time to mess with it, i would have built it myself. I will let you guys know what i find, thank you for the input!
 
I finally got figured it out, i found a crack in the intake and i had to bent push rods. Getting a edelbrock rpm dual plane intake, and got some harland sharp hold downs for the rockers, hope thats going to be the fix. Ill get it back togeather in the next few day
 
Your combo sounds good to me, but i would go with a single plane intake. With your cid you will get better responce all around. How tall of a tire are you running with the 4:10? 29 or 30"? I would be concerned about the bent push rods, and recheck your clearances, something is not adding up. What are you setting your valve lash at? Good luck.
 
ya, i have never had a problem with the single plane intakes, one of my favorites is teh wiend single plane, but i was told by my engine builder that the dual plane with my came choice would work well. So i am just going to try it out, its only an intake, and they are easlly swapped over. the rpm intake works well in the rpm range my red line is 6000 rpm, and max power was @ 5100rpm, so its just going to be a trial and error. I adjust the valves @ .028 and .032 and im runnig a 28" tall tire in the rear
 
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