Engine cutting out when warming up.

[Imndeep]

Hi all, the header says it all. I've been living with this for awhile now and am frustrated as to what direction to go. After seeing this post I'm even more confused. http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...last-resistor&highlight=positive+coil+voltage
What is happening is that My '68 RR 383 stick, she'll fire right up, run til it get warmed up and or hot then just quit. Ya can't start it right away or you'll drain the battery. Wait 15 to twenty minutes and it fires right up. I'm, trying to determine if it's Coil or Carb or ignition no that I read that post. I am trying to figure out what the voltage to the positive side of the coil is suppose to be. I'm getting 3.9 to 4.2 volts and my meter flashes on and off again like a strobe for the first 20 seconds of reading. I just replaced my alternator because the bearings were shot and it was just old.
I am running a factory electronic distributor with a Mopar Performance Ignition Box which I assume is a MSD unit in disguise. Now from that other feed it says I don't need a ballast resistor going to my coil with a MSD box. I have a ballast resistor hooked up hooked up. So I think it's my coil heating up then quitting because if it was Vapor lock the engine would sputter before shutting off. There is no sputter. I'm posting some picts for you guru to disseminate. Let me know one way or another if I'm messed up or not? TIA

 

[Lets Roll]

It could be the box or coil heating up and having a break that separates a trace or wire inside and then when it cools down it starts. I didn't see your carb do you have an aluminum carb spacer than helps keep the fuel from boiling? I guess an easy way to troubleshoot the electronics would be to pull a wire and have a plug handy to see if you have hot spark immediately after it happens.

 

[bandit]

Sounds like coil to me. Engine stalling when hot then restarting when cool is symptoms of coil starting to go. There are resistance readings you can do to determine if coil is bad. Measure the resistance (ohms) on the plus to minus and plus to primary coil output. If you are seeing infinite or no resistance on either, coil is bad. I think plus to minus should be between .5 and 2 and plus to primary should be 5000-15000. Try to check it when it stalls if you can. Been awhile since I had one go bad so someone please correct me if I am off on these numbers.

 

[GetX'd]

Had a similar problem back in the day. That coil is an Accel is it not. Well the darn thing blew up on me. Not saying that's what's going to happen to you - just,the experience I had. Surprised the heck out of me....

 

[Imndeep]

Yup, it is / was an Accel Super Coil. I have diagnosed it to the coil. I swapped it out with a known good coil and she ran fine. Thanks for the input. I still would like to know what the voltage is suppose to be to the positive side of the coil from the ballast resistor.

 

[mopar 3 B]

12 v starting and 6 v running.

 

[Imndeep]

So, I know this is all subjective, but does anyone have a good reccomendation for a Coil being I'm in the market for a new one?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Should be closer to 9 volts running at the coil. I like the msd blaster coil

 

[billc]

Had two things happen to me in the past. Coil overheating and quits firing. Another issue I had was the fuel filter. It was so full of trash it would stop up and cause the engine to stall. Sit for a few minutes and it would crank up, and soon as the fuel stirred up the trash she shut off again. Changed out fuel filter and it solved the problem.

 

[Lionized]

So, I know this is all subjective, but does anyone have a good reccomendation for a Coil being I'm in the market for a new one?

PerTronix Flame Thrower II.

 

[QQBlue1]

I second the Master Blaster.